From Tree to Lamp

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About: I love playing in the woodshop, I'm a bee keeper.

Intro: From Tree to Lamp

Step 1: Tree to Lamp

I first cut down a black walnut tree and cut it into sections. Then I took the section I wanted and cut it into the slabwood's

Step 2:

Once I cut them into slabs then I cut them down into the size that I wanted to work with.

Step 3:

To get the shape that you want I found this chainsaw attachment for my grinder. This is a very dangerous to also you will need to wear a face shield and leather gloves. I have made many lamps this way and to get the shape you want it's just how you feel you just have to be sure you don't go deep enough to hit the hole that you drilled for the wiring.

Step 4:

This is just one of the shapes that I've done

Step 5:

Now that you have the shape that you want then I use a random orbit sander starting with about an 80 grit and working my way up to a 220 grit.

Step 6:

This particular lamp is made from Black Walnut so I choose not to use any kind of stain because they're such natural beauty that I don't want to change anything. So I just used five coats of semi gloss polyurethane. In between each coat I Sanded with a 320 sandpaper very lightly just to make sure there's no runs, or drips.

Step 7:

Then I used a 14 two lamp wire and a three way switch ran it through the whole and put a eighth inch nipple in the end and I glued it in so I had something to put my switch on to.

Step 8:

On the base I used half inch rubber bumpers to lift the lamp off the table so I had you can turn it either way you wanted and not worry about the cord.

Step 9:

And now you can enjoy the beauty of your homemade lamp

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    34 Discussions

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    bpark1000

    3 years ago on Introduction

    Unless you treat the wood of the lamp with polyethylene glycol, the wood in time will split lengthwise. To prevent this, proceed as follows: cut out the lamp as you have done, from fully green wood, but leave it 1/8th of an inch oversize. Soak in polyethylene glycol solution until fully treated (details available with the chemical, available from wood suppliers). The treatment can require months of soaking, and is speeded with heat. Then dry fully. The drying can be forced, as there is no danger of splitting at this point. Then finish off the 1/8th inch. This removes surface mold and dirt from the treatment. Your freeform design makes this easy. Apply finish, but you must be careful that the finish is compatible. There are details available with the chemical. Your lamp will then never crack or split, no matter how dry it is!

    The larger the hole you drill down the center, the easier and faster the treatment goes (and if you don't treat, lessens the danger of splitting). Also, taking the wood from the side of a large tree will reduce the likelihood of splitting, versus taking it centered in the tree.

    I am curious how well this lamp wood remains split-free over time.

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    Thor Hunter

    3 years ago on Introduction

    If u don't have a chainsaw for ur grinder go to Home Depot and get a flap sander for a grinder.

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    HOSSEIN_GHThor Hunter

    Reply 3 years ago on Introduction

    You're welcome.Your work is unparalleled.
    I've got some logs.This is a good idea that i use them.
    Thank you.

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    lvaladezjr

    3 years ago

    I love the abstract shape, and the wood grain is absolutely beautiful. Awesome work!

    1 reply
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    Thor Hunterlvaladezjr

    Reply 3 years ago

    thank you, I have other lamps{ including this one] picture frames, mirrors,pipe shelves, pizza cutters for sale on Toddd's SOD woodworking on FB. If you see anything you wou
    ld like let me know on that page.

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    steven9

    3 years ago

    The chainsaw attachment can be bought on Amazon. Search for "chain carver" their $30-$40

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    AllenInks

    3 years ago on Introduction

    My grandfather and I did a very similar project when I was a young. A difference is that we put a threaded lamp pipe through the hole we bored through the wood. that way there was metal separating the electrical conductor from the wood.... like conduit in a wall, and a short is less likely to set the wood on fire (but, I suppose, more likely to electrify the metal parts of the lamp and shock you).. Maybe that is overkill; but it also allowed the electrical socket to be securely threaded to the top of the rod, and the rod fixed to the wood by nuts at the top and bottom end of the pipe.to the rod, rather than just glued in place.

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    george17AllenInks

    Reply 3 years ago on Introduction

    use a rubber tube for the wires inside the wooden base of the lamp because the the wood will not catch on fire and rubber will not electrocute you because it is an insulator not a conductor

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    Thor Hunter

    3 years ago

    Fling Flickr. I drew an ax from corner to corner for Drew line from corner to corner and got the center or use the 3/8 inch drill bit by 18 inches long and you just go in a couple inches at a time and pull it back out to get rid of the wood that you've just chewed up and admit slow and easyand you only go halfway and turn it over and come from the other side.

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    Thor Hunter

    3 years ago

    bwallace5. I got them at a place called Acme tools in Plymouth Minnesota. Yes they were on the shelf. But they were the last ones they had that I haven't seen them there again so I don't know if they're still carrying them or not.

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    bwallace5

    3 years ago on Introduction

    This is the first I've seen of a chain saw attachment as you've got shown. Will you tell us more about it? If it is off the shelf, your source.

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    xxlauraxx

    3 years ago on Introduction

    Gorgeous! I'd love to see more of your woodworking projects.

    Suggestion: You should put a photo of the finished lamp in your intro, so it shows up when people come across this project on the site.