Introduction: Fuego Prime: the Transforming Flaming Scarecrow/Fire Pit/Patio Heater/Camping Stove
This Scarecrow is a great decoration for the lawn on Halloween, but unlike other decorations, it doesn't go into the trash after the night is over, it eats the trash, itself, and burns whatever you put into it with the same malice it projects from its wickedly flaming gaze. My cost to build this monster was $48, it should have been less, but I was short on time and had to buy more fittings and pipe than I cared for. With a good pipe threader, welder, or even a torch and some brazing rod, the cost can be even less. If you have a typical southern rural back yard, almost everything is sitting out there for you to build this beast.
CAUTION; This instructable is literally playing with fire, proper protection needs to be worn, safe practices need to be used, or you end up looking like a stunt double for Deadpool.
This item has the limits of the creator, the variants that can be produced from it are endless. This write up will show how to make the scarecrow, turn the scarecrow into a small fire pit, then a camping stove. The three forms of the propane tank do not have to be done in sequence, or at all. After tank preparation, the builder can go straight to the stove, or fire pit. Propane components addition is listed in separate steps as options. The fuel for all three items can be solid combustibles, or propane, both will be shown.
Step 1: Collect Your Parts, Ready Your Tools, Steel Your Nerves.
This project uses fire, caution should be exercised during fabrication and use of this item. Time to check your tools and skills...
Skills Required: Literacy, light mechanical aptitude, hand tool skills, and a touch of common sense.
Skills Suggested: Computer hacking skills, Nun-chuck skills, bow hunting skills...Or more practical skills like:
- pipe soldering
- plasma cutting
- workshop safety
If you are not a master duct tape and bubblegum mechanic, don't worry, this project can be done by almost anyone with the basic tools found in a garage.
- A drill with a good set of sharp drill bits
- a candle
- a bastard file(preferably double cut)
- a hammer
- a punch(or any steel rod that is smaller than 3/8" in diameter )
- a set of pliers(locking variety and needle nose are best)
- a marker/grease pencil
- 2 large adjustable wrenches
- a wood saw.
--If you have just the bare necessities, consider allotting plenty of time and enlisting help from friends.
Tools Suggested:Along with the required tools...
- a die grinder
- 4" body grinder
- hand held jig saw with metal cutting blades
- reciprocating saw
- hand held rotary tool(dremel)
- clamps and locking pliers
- a framing nail gun
- a staple gun
- a hand held torch...
- a bench vise
- a 2.5" hole saw
- 1/4" impact driver
- measuring calipers
- socket wrenches
Personal Protective Equipment: Eye and ear protection, face shields if you like, closed toe shoes, and a fire extinguisher.
- An EMPTY propane/refrigerant tank, preferably an out of date one.
- wood planks
- a door hinge
- misc nuts, bots and wood screws.
Suggested Parts: W is for wood burning projects, P is for Propane
All steel tubing, flanges, and connectors should be black steel or cast iron, NOT galvanized, *brass is ok
Do not use PVC fittings for any of the propane connections, propane will destroy the PVC.
- P a scrap BBQ grill with side burner for pots (for propane burning rigs)
- the side burner, a single gas valve, the regulator, and propane line are needed, the grill is also handy
- WP 4x 1/2" pipe nipple around 10" long (camping stove/fire pit legs & tank to body mount)
- WP 4x 1/2" pipe flanges(stove/pit leg mounts)
- WP 4x PVC 1/2" pipe caps(stove/pit non marring feet & scarecrow mount caps)
- WP a pallet(scarecrow base)
- WP a 3/4" pipe nipple around 8" long (scarecrow neck)
- WP a 3/4" pipe to 1/2" pipe T connection (scarecrow neck to body mount/burner body)
- P a 3/4" pipe nipple around 4 inches long(burner manifold to tank connection)
- P 2x 1/2" close pipe nipple(interior burner flange & propane stove burner body)
- W a toaster oven cooking tray/grate(wood burning rack)
- WP 3/8" steel rod at least 30" long( stove pot rack)
- WP Self drilling and tapping screws, size #10/#12
- P a steel 1/2" pipe cap(propane valve manifold)
- WP a can of barbecue spray paint
- P safety wire, bailing wire, or small cotter keys(propane valve manifold)
- P a 1/2" pipe plug(propane manifold)
- P a very high temp sealant...I used pottery clay(burner seal)
- WP a 90 degree street elbow in 1/2" pipe thread(scarecrow head frame)
- WP a pack of 1/2" metal pipe/conduit straps(scarecrow head frame attachment)
- W 2x 1" pipe nipples around 10" long(burn pit exhaust pipes if using for 3 pipe burn pit)
- W 2x 1" pipe flanges (burn pit exhaust pipes if using 3 pipe burn pit)
- P a 1/2" to 3/8" NPT pipe bushing
Step 2: Things Are Getting a Little Heated...
The important part of the project is the tank. SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY! DO NOT DO ANYTHING TO A TANK WITH FUEL IN IT!
A) If you have a tank that you are pretty sure is empty, place the tank in an open area out doors, away from flame, children, the elderly, the young, the middle aged, dogs, cats, rodents, etc. Open the tank valve all the way and walk away for 6 hours.
IF THERE IS A LOUD HISSING COMING FROM THE TANK WHEN YOU OPEN IT, CLOSE IT IMMEDIATELY, ATTACH TO BARBECUE GRILL AND COOK LUNCH!
B) Now that the tank no longer contains propane, you may begin the process of valve removal, the older the tank, the worse the struggle. The brass valve can usually be removed with 2 large adjustable wrenches/pipe wrenches or a pipe and a pipe wrench. Extension bars and additional help may be needed. If the tank is less than 40 years old, removal is not terribly difficult. Knocking the brass valve off with a sledgehammer will likely damage the threads in the tank and make it more difficult later in the project, hit something else with the sledgehammer if the urge should arise, siblings and the family cat are good targets.
- NOTE: During the removal process, you will smell a strong propane like odor. If the tank was vented for 6 hours as directed, the aroma coming from the tank is not propane, it is Methanethiol/Mercaptan. The oily additive used to give propane its smell will settle into the tank and develop sludge in the tank after its lifetime of refills. Mercaptan is flammable, but not explosive. Refrain from smoking.
C) Drill a single 3/16" hole in the bottom of the tank (opposite the valve)or where the stove pipe would go (if you wanted one) is also a good spot.
D) With stubborn tanks, heat maybe required to loosen things up. If the valve is already out, drain as much sludge out of the valve's old hole by tipping the tank over and drain into an oil pan. Those with valves still attached should have the fire extinguisher handy. Tip the tank valve side down and set in a position clear of combustibles. KEEPING HANDS AWAY using a torch, candle lighter, a flaming poop covered stick, or some other such device, light the valve/valve hole on fire. The oil sludge in the tank will burn, with the vent hole drilled in step C) keeping the tank lit without over pressurizing. Relight the tank as many times as needed until the tank will not re-ignite. Let cool for 30 minutes.
E) Remove the tank collar if not already done so by cutting the 3 welds on the collar, chain drilling around the welds is also an option.
Step 3: Michelangelo Had His Chisels, What Do You Have?
This step is a mid-guide guide on material removal.
This small section covers how to remove the metal on your tank with the tools you may or may not have. There are many methods to cut and smooth your tank, here are a few:
Drilling: Drilling on metals should always be lubricated for a simple reason. No one likes a hard shaft being pushed into them dry, the metal is the same. Be it paraffin waxfrom an old Yankee Candle, the professional wax stick, actual bee's wax, or consumer drilling lubricants; use some lube to keep your bits cool and they will stay sharp longer, cut faster, and bend less. Drilling speed is proportional to the bit size. Unlike wood, you cannot drill a 1/2" hole through steel at 2500RPM for very long. You will harden the steel with the friction, and dull your bit with the heat the friction produces. The bigger the bit, the slower the speed. When holes are bigger than 1/4", pilot drill them with a bit around 1/16" This added step will save bits and actually save time as the drilling process is faster when the chisel tip at the peak of the bit is not digging its way through steel.
Chain drilling:This is nothing more than chaining holes drilled together in a line on the waste side of the part to carve out a pattern. After the pattern of nearly overlapping holes is drilled, the waste can be punched out with a hammer and punch. The excess peaks can be filed down by hand or ground with power tools. Using a small drill bit that easily punches through the steel, chain drilling is effective in areas where larger tools cannot properly cut. It is also the safest method for cutting since it does not involve rotating fiberglass wheels of death, sharp blades, or fire. Chain drilling is the cheapest cutting method but is also the most time consuming.
Hole saw cutting: Just like drilling, go very slow apply medium pressure, prepare to be bucked, and use lots of wax/lube.
Body saw/Jig saw: Keep the throttle below half, use plenty of wax by smearing it on the blade or area to cut. The liquid lube makes it hard to swap blades later and electric motors don't like it. Make sure you are using metal cutting blades.
Die Grinder and 4" grinder: Gloves are a good idea, not using the grinder guards that come with the grinders is not. (My Ripsaw never had one, it was a pawn shop find.) Face shields and dust masks are recommended, as are heavy aprons and a heavy hat. have plenty of wheels ready and do not twist the grinder while cutting, it will fracture the wheel and blow a cloud of dust in your face, as well as wheel chunks. If you twist and the grinder stops, stop, pull out, and re-align the tool so the wheel is not getting pinched.
Filing: When filing heavily on steel, once again, speed is not your friend. Good pressure, steady movements and a lubricant helps. When filing, loading up the file with sidewalk chalk works best. It keeps the teeth clean and lubricates the file. Simply file the chalk until they are both the same color, and go to town.
Step 4: THE SCARECROW: Time to Make a Face Only a Mother Could Love.
You now have what appears to be a giant Lego head that smells of burnt farts.
A) Draw a face you would like to cut out of the tank. If you put your vent hole on the side of the tank, try to use the hole in the face's design or to just hide it in the eyes. My design is simple for instruction sake, as well as the evolution of the piece. Remember the valve hole is where the neck of the scarecrow attaches. Unless you want to make a scarecrow resembling Tom Tucker's son, make sure the valve hole is down while drawing.
- I installed the pipes that would be the support frame for the head to help hold the head as I was drilling and cutting, this is completely optional.
B) Drill the corners of your features to give yourself rounded edges, it makes finish grinding easier later. drilling is also required when using body and jig saws. its also a good boundary point for the die grinder and 4" grinder
C) Start cutting using whatever method you prefer as long as it does not maim or kill.
D) De-burr and finish the face using grinders, files, sandpaper, honing stones, your last bit of Mana, whatever.
E) Draw and cut the back door.
F) De-burr the back door as before.
G) Grab chunks of steel from the face cutout to make door stops with, I used the eye cuts from the hole saw. Grind and finish as needed.
H) Drill and bolt the door stops to the inside of the tan on the opposite side of the hinge you will be installing.
I) Mark the hinge location for the back door with the pin exactly over the edge of the door hole, mark holes, drill, bolt on.
J) Mark(this can be while the door is held in the hole to ascertain position), remove, and drill the door. Drill the door for a door handle/knob while drilling.
- The hole for the door latch, knob should be around 1-2" from the edge of the door and near the center-line weld on the tank, do not try to drill through the center-line weld.
K) Assemble the door using desired hinge and bolts. The handle i used was a long rusty bolt I bent, held in by a nut. In this build, slop is your friend, do not be afraid to open the holes up for better alignment of the door and hinge.
L) For the wood burners: now you are ready to cut the hearth plate/grate/grill that your wood will sit on while burning the insides of the tank. The old BBQ grill could be used for this after being cut to fit inside the tank, you can bend up some re-bar or steel rod, just do not use anything galvanized.My choice was a stainless pan from a toaster oven.
NEXT UP...THE BODY OF THE BEAST....
Step 5: THE SCARECROW: Mind, Then Body and Soul.
From the ground up...
A) Building from bottom to top was the method I chose to build a 7 foot tall beast, Using a smaller pallet as the base, it was easy to construct a good portable frame.
B) Using scrap lumber and pallet chunks, make the legs. I used two pallet slats and simply ran a #10 lag bolt through the ends to join the two in a "V", but still allowed me to move the legs and change the angle as I fit them to the pallet.
C) Position the legs to find anchor points and brace blocks, I used remnants of a 2x4 to make smaller blocks that can be bolted to the pallet top in 2 places per block. With 4 blocks total, the legs are sandwiched between them and then deck screwed with 2-1/2" screws in 2 places.
- With my assortment of reclaimed lags and screws, I needed to make sure my screws and bolts made their way through to the other parts of wood. Sometimes this required counter-boring with a 1/2" drill up to half way through the block the screw/bolt head went into.
D) After the legs are secured via the 4 anchor blocks, it is time to mount the torso, I used an old piece of cabinet pine that was 1" thick and more reused lag bolts. Plywood will work as well as long as it is layered to over 1" thick (doubling or tripling layers is fine as long as the wood is bolted together on the corners and the center-line). The board used should be around 24" long and as wide as you like. Keep the top edge of the plank open to secure the shoulders.
Putting the weight of the world on its shoulders...
Time to build the shoulders with the tank frame. This piece needs plenty of support to make sure your flaming scarecrow does not turn into the headless horseman.
E) Using 2x 1/2" pipe nipples at least 8' long, assemble the pipes to form a "T" with the 1/2"-3/4" pipe "T" and the 90 degree street elbow. Secure the new T-frame to a good solid board (preferably the same thickness as the torso) using the 1/2" pipe straps, use 4 at a minimum.
- If adding propane, leave space at the ends of the pipe nipples to attach the valve and cap.
F) Attach the shoulders using a sandwich method creating overlap between the torso and shoulders.
Weebles wobble, but they don't fall down.
Your structure could probably use some bracing, time to put that in.
G) A final brace was added to my project going from the pallet to the base of the shoulders using what looked like an old chunk of an IKEA bed rail and 2 rusty door hinges. The hinges are bolted into the shoulder plank sandwich with 1/4" lag bolts and then bolted into another anchor block on the pallet from the same wood that made the other 4 anchor blocks. Using the hinges gave the ability to attach the brace without worrying about the angle, here's how.
- Attach one end of the plank to the hinge with the lag bolts, then bolt to the shoulder joint.
- Let the plank hang down to the anchor block to mark the cut.
- Cut the plank, install the hinge
H)Arm up: I used old vacuum hose, but pool noodles, tree branches, or whatever you can bolt to the shoulders will work as arms. just cut to length and screw on with 2 screws to make them pop out a bit in stead of just hanging limp, no one likes a limp noodle.
I) Painting the scarecrow with barbecue paint is heavily recommended to help the fire resistance to all the wood in the body, and foam or plastic. The clothes are not much and issue, but the wood would make for quite a show if ignited for some reason.
J) Time to play dress up..I chose a shirt that I had caught fire while making the scarecrow and some old pants. Really throwing on some good sheets and some more rags would be better as long at they are not the overly flammable type. Cotton burns easily as do cheap polyesters. A cheap spray on flame retardant instructable is right here if you feel inclined: https://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Flame-re...
K) Gloves of the old garden variety were used to make hands, dipped in red paint for a little bit of show.
L) Screw on the head and see how well it burns!
- As you can see in one of the pictures, my scarecrow had a serious case of armpit sweat, that just happened to smell like Coleman fuel. Do not pour starting fluids (gas,diesel, Coleman fuel, lighter fluid,etc) directly into the head. Soak it in a rag first. The other option is to put steel caps on the two pipes in the head frame, but this is not recommended as it reduces airflow into the head and can cause the pipes to overheat when someone decides to use them as a fuel tank for their 2 gallon stater fluid fireball.
FOR THE MORE CIVILIZED, THE PROPANE ADDITION MAY BE MORE YOUR STYLE----->
Step 6: PROPANE SCARECROW: Boy I Tell You What; I Love Propane and Propane Accessories
You like the scarecrow, but are not in the mood to keep feeding it wood chunks, and then there is the smoke...
Adding propane fueling to the scarecrow is a pretty easy add on.
A) Build your propane fuel setup. Use the hose from the grill, or attach another with hose clamps onto the tank regulator and affix a nipple the the valve. I had to get a brass fitting from the plumbing department to attach a 1/4" NPT hose barb to the valve. Pressure and leakage are not big issues with these components due to the whopping 1-2PSI peak flow that goes through the system. Use only propane or automotive fuel line tubing, other tubing will break down when exposed to propane.
B) Assemble the burner head taken from the BBQ by stripping any screen off the vent port on the long end of the tube and trimming down the seam on the inside of the 1/2" close nipple. Do not just gouge the daylights out of the nipple bore, no one likes a gouged nipple hole. Trim using a rotary tool with a stone bit or a half round file that fits in the hole. Take a bit off, then test fit. The desired fit will require the burner head to be smashed in by hand, using a hammer will deform the burner. I pressed my burner in past the vent port. I do not recommend this as it restricted oxygen dispersion and caused a much richer flame. If you leave the vent port on the burner half exposed, you should see better results, if not, just mash it in further.
C)Mounting the valve regulator on the shoulder: Place the valve in position (either shoulder) on the end of the pipe, mark out the area of the shoulder to cut out to allow clearance. I cut out too much and should have left material to strap the valve in position with a 1/2" pipe strap. Chain drilling out the area for the regulator and opposite cap would have been better since it leaves more material and keeps more structural integrity of the shoulder. Cut or drill out the needed wood to allow proper alignment of the valve and the pipe.
D) Use either a 1/2" pipe cap or something that threads onto the 1/2"NPT nipple thread without strain, do not force it or strip the threads, as they are needed later if doing the other two build options. I had an adapter from another project.
E) Drill a hole in the pipe cap/nut just 1/64" smaller than the diameter of the valve nozzle. If you don't have calipers, or the right drill bit, just drill 1/16" under the size of the nozzle diameter from the barbecue and prepare to open the hole up slowly with a file or rotary tool.
F) Trim off and extra brass from the nozzle using a file or rotary to to make a nice tapered shaft, this will be pressed into the pipe cap/nut.
G) With the knob removed, TAP (not smash) the valve into the cap you installed onto the pipe using a deep well socket to drive the valve into the cap. DO NOT HIT THE KNOB STEM. You will destroy the valve. Cap the opposite pipe
- Since this is a temporary fixture, that is all that is needed. If you noticed on the barbecue, the nozzle was a slip fit onto the burner.
H) ON WITH HIS HEAD! Screw on the head to a snug fit and facing the desired position, then screw in the burner body made earlier from the barbecue and the 1/2" close nipple. Do not worry about the lack of threads, to seal the temporary area between the nipple and the inner diameter of the 3/4" pipe threaded into the head, use a high temp seal such as clay, massive amounts of teflon tape, or fiberglass sheet wrapped around the thread.
- Wrapping fiberglass fabric is easily done with a 1" strip cut 6" long from standard fiberglass fabric sheet. To get it to stay on the pipe during install, it needs an adhesive to hold it in place while screwing into the scarecrow neck. High temp epoxies and sealants will do the job, but can stink things up, standard white school glue does a good job, but burns out over time.The pipe should be screwed in when the glue is tacky.
Soldering and welding are more permanent options.
I) Secure the propane line from the tank to the scarecrow using straps, zip ties, bailing wire, etc.
J) Attach the filled propane tank to the regulator, open the valve in the armpit, light the head using desired method (candle lighter, torch, flaming poop stick, etc).
K) Sniff around for leaks, whip out the spray bottle with water and soap to spray joints while looking for major leaks, tighten joints as needed.
K) Put the scarecrow's shirt back on.
I NEED SOMEWHERE TO PUT ALL THIS JUNK MAIL--->
Step 7: BURN PIT: Show's Over Kids, Go Home...Time to Make a Fire Pit and Roast Marshmallows
If you skipped over the scarecrow straight to the fire pit, your steps are nearly the same, differences will be noted.
A) Disassemble your scare crow, (DUH!) cut the wood into chunks short enough to fit into the tank for later.
B) Cut out the face of the scarecrow
-- If the scarecrow was not made, cut a hole on the tank the size of an 8-1/2" x 11" sheet of paper placed long edge riding the weld seam with the paper nearest the original tank valve hole.
1) Wet the paper and place it into position, trace with marking tool (grease pen, paint marker, chalk, etc).
2) Drill a hole at each corner of the marked paper, no not try to drill through the weld.
3) Cut/chain drill/cast spell and de-burr. Refer to the videos in THE SCARECROW: Time to make a face only a mother could love for further cutting reference.
4) OPTIONAL: Cut out a back door as described in THE SCARECROW: Time to make a face only a mother could love.
C) De-bur and finish grind the hole that used to be your beloved creation's face, I had to take a little more material to square it up a bit.
D) Turn the tank valve hole side up back into traditional storage position and lay out your exhaust pipe flanges.
E) Lay out and mark your 1/2", 3/4", or 1" pipe flanges (whichever you chose for exhaust pipes) so that the tank looks like it has a trident sticking out of it and looks like a demonic Wilson. I chose to put the pipes in an equal spacing lining up with the center valve hole to facilitate transformation into the camping stove. I also suggest pipe larger than 1/2" be used as it did not allow enough exhaust out of the top of the tank.
F) Drill the holes for the flanges and for the exhaust pipes. Hole saws are a much better cutting tool compared to large diameter drill bits due to the tendency to catch at the end. Using a rotary tool or die grinder to open up a pilot hole are also options.
G) Drill 15-20 holes of around 1/16" around the perimeter of what will be the bottom curve of the tank( the curve opposite the exhaust flanges and original valve hole).
G) Attach flanges with nuts and bolts/self tapping screws.
H) Screw the exhaust pipes in to the flanges. Paint with BBQ paint, re-insert hearth plate/grill. Wait the prescribed curing time on the high temp paint before burning.
THE WHOLE ROASTING MARSHMALLOWS THING IS COOL, BUT THAT'S NOT COOKING WITH GAS-->
Step 8: CAMPING STOVE: a Camping Rig So Ugly, No One Will Ever Steal It, Just Shoot It.
You have no use for a burn pit, but the idea of a stove on the go doesn't sound bad.
You have taken your scarecrow apart, are getting hungry and want some ramen, you should get to work.
A) Cut out the face of your scarecrow to make a large hole, or leave it as is if you like, make it an angry stove.
--If you skipped the scarecrow and the burn pit after prepping the tank, here are the catch up notes:
1) For efficiency, take an 8-1/2" x 11'' sheet of paper and fold it length wise (like a hot dog bun, not the hamburger) and cut in half.
2) Wet the paper and place it next to the weld seam that is nearest the original tank valve hole so that the paper runs along the seam for 11".
3) Drill at the 4 corners with a 3/16"ish drill bit, cut out and de-burr.
4) Cut out the back door as described in THE SCARECROW: Time to make a face only a mother could love.
B) Place your 4 flanges for the legs in 4 positions around the original tank valve hole equal distant apart. The closer they are to the center hole, the taller the stove will be, the farther away, the more stable it will be. My pictures show only adding 2 to the original 2 from the burn pit, just play along with it.
- To get an equal distance around the center hole, tie a string to a 3/4" pipe threaded into the original tank valve hole, adjust the string length to the desired circle tie to drawing instrument, and spin the marker/grease pencil/ bloody severed finger to draw a circle that can be used to line up the flanges. Quarter the circle to get your 4 center points. If using the severed finger, make sure to clean some flesh away from the bone before use as it will smudge the tank scratch marks.
C) Drill the marked holes for the flanges, center hole drilling is optional, they can be used for additional airflow, but will also let out liquid fire starters. Bolt on the flanges. The self drilling screws were great when piloted with a 1/16" pit, but I had to grind the points off them from inside the stove later on. Screw on the PVC 1/2" caps if you used 1/2" pipe. The caps act as leveling feet for the stove, adjusting the leg engagement in the flange will also give a little to level the stove.
Stove pipe without the stove pipe:You now have the ugliest rendition of Sputnik the National Park service has ever seen, put it on its feet and warm up your drill again.
D) Cut a hole in the new top of the tank. I used my hole saw again. Keep the hole size under 4" then drill 15ish holes around your larger hole about 1-1/2" away using a 1/8"ish bit. Then drill 12 holes in the old tank foot band (the rim of metal that sat the tank up when it held gas) around the large holes already in it. These band holes will let the hot air flow around your pot while you are trying to cook ramen.
E) Time to make the cooking rack: If you have not pilfered one from the BBQ, you can easily make one with 30" of 3/8" steel rod. Slide the rod into some 3/8" holes that are in the tank foot band, mark off and extra 1/4" on each side if you plan to use cotter keys to secure the rods. I marked on the line and cut just outside the line to mushroom the ends of the rod later. Welding and soldering are also options.
- If the tank does not have 3/8" holes in the foot band, you have to put them in. The easiest way to do the hole locations is with 1" tape stretched over the foot band in an "X" pattern centered on center line of the tank with each corner of the "X" ending up as a hole. If the X looks funny, so will your rack.Make sure the center of the tape "X" lines up with the old valve hole on the bottom of the tank. The holes will have to be elongated since the rod will not be entering perpendicular to the band.
F) Install the 3/8" rods via drilling and pinning, bailing wire, or swedging/upsetting.
- The tank may bottom may interfere with the rods sliding in the foot band. HAMMER TIME!!
G) Install the short 3/4" pipe nipple in the old tank valve hole, steel cap is optional as it can be used as a small starter fuel reservoir.
H) Install a hearth plate/grate as seen in THE SCARECROW: Time to make a face only a mother could love. Paint with BBQ paint and wait the allotted time, make your ramen, you are likely starved by now. I managed to boil a gallon of water in the rain with this stove, it did take 25 minutes due to the 6 quart pot, bad fueling, and a lost lid for the first half.
FOR THE LOVE OF PROPANE, THE NEXT STEP IS THE THE LAST ONE!--->
Step 9: PROPANE CAMPING STOVE/PATIO HEATER: the Final Burnt Deer, to Boldly Cook Where No Man Has Cooked Before.
You are reading the last page of the Fuego Prime Saga. It was a pleasure writing this instructable for you, but I'm a little tired of it, let's get this over with.
A) The propane camping stove is nearly identical to the wood camping stove in CAMPING STOVE: A camping rig so ugly, no one will ever steal it, just shoot it. If you are skipping to the end after prepping the tank, it is recommended to cut the back door only and just drill 20-25 holes with a 1/8"ish bit circling the lower half about 2" near the leg flanges.
B) The holes and cooking rack are the same as the wood stove if using for actual cooking, as a patio heater it is suggested to omit the top large diameter hole and drill a second set of holes following the old foot band/rail that is now on the top. The patio heater does not need holes drilled in the foot band like the stoves unless you just want to church it up a little bit.
Let's make it burn already!
C) Refer to PROPANE SCARECROW: Boy I tell you what; I love propane and propane accessories to make the burner head and the regulator to valve assembly.
D) Thread together the short 3/4" pipe nipple and the 3/4", 1/2", 1/2" pipe "T" fitting. Install a 1/2" pipe plug in the opposite side of the 3/4" pipe. On the last hole, install a 1/2"-3/8" bushing in brass or steel.
E) Drill the bushing with a drill bit the largest size of the machined(smoothed) area on the new propane valve. The valve/nozzle/regulator I had was tapered with a 7/16" diameter at the base of the machined nozzle.
F) Insert the BBQ gas nozzle into to bushing that was previously drilled, it should be a snug fit. Using a 1/16" drill bit, drill a hole that runs parallel to one of the bushing flats through the nozzle side, and out the other end of the hex part of the bushing. Install cotter key/pin.
G) Install the assembled burn rig into the 3/4" old tank valve hole.
H) Install the old BBQ burner head assembled into the tank as described in PROPANE SCARECROW: Boy I tell you what; I love propane and propane accessories.
I) Paint the tank in BBQ paint, hook up the gas, and light that PIG!