Unfortunately, most of us have to spend at least some time sitting at a desk or table. Whether we work full-time in an office, or have to catch up on odd jobs like accounts, writing, sewing, artwork, even eating. And when sedentary, our circulation tends to be less effective, which at this time of year means that our feet can get cold. Ever had that?
Well, that was the reasoning behind making one of these furry foot warmers – for those chilly days when you just have to be sat at a desk. And I have to admit that it feels awesome. Very comfortable, extremely warm, and sensual to boot.
Of course, you don’t have to use real fur. We keep rabbits as a way of providing our family with the meat that we eat. The fur is a by-product, albeit a luxurious one. Rather than waste this commodity, we tan the pelts and make all kinds of warm and beautiful items. For more info about raising rabbits for meat, or tanning the hides, click here.
I’ve made two of these warmers so far. I started out doing a 14” square, but it was a little big. For this kind of thing, cozy is definitely a better option, so I did another at 10” square. It’s perfect for both my husband (size 10 ½) and I (size 7). This is the size that this article will describe.
How to Raise Rabbits
Tan Rabbit Hides and Fur
Step 1: Tools and Materials
- Denim, or other heavy weave fabric – 20” x 20”
- Shower Curtain – 26” x 15”
- Rabbit pelts – 5 to 10, depending on size
- Stuffing – fur removed from hides, or synthetic – enough for a 10” x 10” x 2” bag
- Sewing machine
- Tape measure
- Fabric markers
- Needle, thread, pins, etc.
Step 2: Outer Casing
- Cut a piece of fabric, 20” x 20”.
- At each corner, make marks 4 ½” and 5” from the corner along the edges of the fabric.
- Draw lines from the 4 ½” marks to form a square, and likewise for the 5” marks.
- Draw a line diagonally in between the corners of the two squares – we’ll call this Line A. Although this is fairly hard to explain in words, it’s really easy to grasp if you look at the photo below.
- Cut out the 4 ½” square and then cut along Line A.
- Repeat for each corner.
- Fold up each side and sew the two 5” lines you marked for each corner together. Once each corner is done, you will have a box, 10” square with 5” tall sides.
Step 3: Fur Stuffing Bag
Although it makes a wonderful stuffing similar to down, I realize that it’s not something that’s readily available. Consequently you may have to use synthetic stuffing, and so can skip this step.
- From a piece of shower curtain or similarly thin plastic, cut out the shape shown below in the photos (the photo that shows it already cut out also has measurements. It’s basically a 10” x 10” bag that’s 2” deep, allowing for a ½” overlap to sew. The thinner rectangle of the left is the top as well as a side.
- Sew all the sides together. Then sew the lid to two of the sides (one side is connected without having to sew it).
- Turn the bag inside out.
- Stuff the bag full. It will compress with time, as the air is pushed out, so make sure it’s fuller than you want it to end up.
- Sew the final side to the lid to close the bag.
- Set this bag inside the denim box.
Step 4: Furry Base
- If you have it, use a piece that’s 11” x 11” for the base and then cut four strips of 11” x 2 ½”. You can then sew a strip to each strip (the above dimensions allows for a ½” overlap or hem), and sew the strips together at the corners.
- Alternatively, you can piece smaller furs together to form a whole that is 12” x 12” outside dimensions. You can then cut out the corners, fold up the sides and sew them together.
- Place this tray on top of the fur pouch inside the denim box.
- Fold the top ½” or so of denim over the fur and tuck it under itself (so that the frayed bit of fabric is hidden). Sew the two together.
Step 5: Furry Lid
- Cut two pieces of fur, each 11” x 11”. If you don’t have any large enough, sew smaller furs together.
- Cut an arch out of the bottom of both pieces. It should start 1” in from either side and be 3” tall (see photo below).
- Place one fur on top of the other, with the fur sides touching and leather facing out. Sew the two together along all the straight sides (not the arch).
- Turn it inside out.
Step 6: Ankle Warmer
- Cut one piece of fur that’s 13” x 7” and another that’s 10” x 7”.
- Sew one side of the 13” piece to the arch of the lid’s top fur (the strip's fur should be on the lid side, not on the open arch side). You should have a little of the strip sticking out beyond both ends of the arch, which you’ll use to sew to the 10” strip.
- Fold the 13” strip in half, back on itself leather to leather, and sew the other 13” length to the arch of the lid’s underside fur.
- Fold the 10” strip in half lengthways, with the leather on the outside. Sew the two loose 10” lengths together. Turn it inside out, so that the fur is on the outside.
- Sew one end to the 13” strip’s left side, and the other end to the 13” strip’s right side. Make sure the grain of the fur flows in the same direction for both pieces. The strip should now form a circle of fur that will encase your ankles
Step 7: Finishing Off
- Take the lid and place it on top of the rest of the unit. Sew them together on four sides (the lid will comprise three sides, and the 10” strip of ankle warmer will be the fourth).
- Take off any socks and shoes or slippers that you’re wearing. Slip your bare feet inside the warmer, and relax.
Runner Up in the
Sew Warm Contest