Garden Fireplace With Bench

280,359

3,714

79

How to build a fireplace with a bench for your own garden.

Working time approx. 2 days.

Step 1: Digging In...

Use a pole to establish the center of the fireplace. This will be a reference point so make sure to use a long pole. Use a string and some spraypaint to mark the edge of the fireplace.

Then you can start digging... To find the right height you can add sand and some cobbles. Make sure the height is approved by apropriate authorities (wife, girlfriend, whatever) and then make sure this stays where it is as this will be another reference point for you.

Step 2: Adding Gravel

Use at least 5-7 cm of gravel and stamp it firmly.

Step 3: Adding Sand

Then you can add some sand. Use your 'cobble reference' to determine the amount of sand. I suggest at least 10 cm of sand. Do not stamp it but make sure it is evenly allocated according to your spirit level.

Step 4: Laying Cobbles

Use your spirit level and your 'cobble reference point' to make another two or three reference points at the outer perimeter of the fireplace.

Then make the inner perimeter. Again you should use a string on the reference pole with your chosen radius.

In order to keep the right level at all times you should lay down a few 'spokes' of cobbles wich will turn out helpfull when laying the rest of the cobbles.

You should use a rubber mallet when laying the cobbles.

Step 5: And More Cobbles

Use your reference points and take it away!

I suggest you start from inside and out. Make sure not to add sand between the cobbles yet.

Step 6: Checking Your Own Work

Use something long and strait to check if you have done your work properly. As long as you did not add the sand you can easily move, lower or raise each cobble.

Step 7: Tadaaa....; Fireplace!

Add sand on top of the cobbles, water it down and repeat and repeat. Hope for some rain and then you can walk on your new fireplace.

And now on for the bench...

Step 8: Preparing the Posts

As you can see the bench has 4 parts therefore I need 10 posts. These are approx 100 by 100 mm impregnated.

I wanted the height to be 40 cm above the cobbles so I have made each post 1 meter.

I used my router to round off the edges before painting them.

It is not nessesary to use cement or similar when digging them in as the battens will stiffen the entire construction.

Step 9: Mounting the Battens

I used two screws in each end of each batten

Step 10: Gables

Just for the looks of it I made a small gable in each end, and when ever I look at it I am happy I did.

Step 11: Placing the Hard-wood Rods

Use your reference pole again.

I made this batten my own tool for placing the rods right. Take a good look at the photos to see how it works.

Step 12: Mounting the Rods

I used stainless steel screws to mount the hard-wood rods from below. Make sure you pre-drill!

Step 13: Done!

That is it!

Invite your favorites and enjoy the fire and their admiration!

4 People Made This Project!

Recommendations

  • Toys Contest

    Toys Contest
  • First Time Author

    First Time Author
  • Big and Small Contest

    Big and Small Contest

79 Discussions

0
None
engr_babe

Question 7 months ago

Where did you get the cobblestones from?

0
None
Tias20

1 year ago

Thanks for sharing this great design! I have a few questions about it though. How did you attach the rod to the stake in the center of the pit. Also, how did you screw on the seat boards from underneath at the points where they sit directly on top of the posts?

1 reply
0
None
AllanS1Tias20

Reply 1 year ago

Glad you like it!

Screwing the seat boards where they sit on top of the posts was not easy. But from an angle I could predrill through the post and into the board and I had to use an extra long screw.

The rod is attached to the center stake with an old rubber band I had layin around (see img1993). The purpose is simply to keep the rod attached but still so loose that it can rotate a bit when placing the boards.

0
None
Tias20

1 year ago

Thanks for sharing this great design! I have a few questions about it though. How did you attach the rod to the stake in the middle of the pit? Also, how did you screw the hardwood boards in from underneath at the points where they were directly on top of the posts?

0
None
KyleH102

1 year ago

What size were the hard wood rods for the top of the bench? Looking to re-create this and was just wondering about thickness/width and length for those

1 reply
0
None
dinsen

1 year ago

Hi Allan

I work on a danish handyman magazine and we are interested in showing your fireplace with the bench in our magazine. Is it possible that we can lend the fotos from you and show your fireplace, including pictures of the proces, in our magazine Gør Det Selv?

Best regards

Lene Dinsen

1 reply
0
None
AllanS1dinsen

Reply 1 year ago

Hej Lene

Det må vi kunne finde ud af, skriv til mig på

allans0311 [a] gmail.com

Mvh

Allan

0
None
pyroneko

1 year ago

just wondering but how many 1x2's did you use and at what length would you propose for a curve bench

0
None
RAnnandale

1 year ago

Made it with the vent at the bottom as proposed. Works a charm! Thanks for the idea!

0
None
Mindscry

2 years ago

Just don't make me sit on the side hiding all the spiders.

0
None
ogrossman

4 years ago on Introduction

I did a similar project except with an above ground fire pit. We used limestone gravel as a base. When I was done laying the pavers I screened some of the gravel and used the finer material to fill in the cracks (instead of sand). The lime stone dust reacts with moisture to form a hard crust. That way it won't wash away with the rain and the ants have a harder time digging in it.

photo.JPG
3 replies
0
None
jaymakerogrossman

Reply 2 years ago

Great idea -- I think I will try to include limestone for base and cracks too.

0
None
Bredewegogrossman

Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

Awesome firepit. You cannot post an awesome picture like that without an Instructable! Looking forward to seeing something. Thanks for sharing.

0
None
bd5

2 years ago

If you added a 4" pipe underneath the the fire with a clean air source, the fire would burn much more efficiently. The pipe could run somewhere inconspicuously from underneath the chairs. A grate at the bottom above the pipe would be necessary.

4 replies
0
None
dmclauchlanbd5

Reply 2 years ago

How would you go about doing this. It would be great if you could upload a quick sketch.

0
None
bd5dmclauchlan

Reply 2 years ago

Without a sketch, let me try words. Have a tunnel which is deeper than the base of the fire pit. One end is at the fire pit, the other could be wherever you like. Search for "Dakota fire pit" and see how well they work. The tunnel would be out of whatever material. There just has to be an air source. The fire pit would work much much Much better. If that doesn't make sense, I could (but not today), upload a sketch.

0
None
PhillipS1bd5

Reply 2 years ago

Most permanent firepits don't use the dakota system because it requires a lot more hardware to keep water from flooding into your pipe/tunnel when it rains. Even if you put a sealing door on the intake side of the tunnel you'd have to somehow deal with sealing the exhaust side that the fire is drawing air from. A better solution perhaps would be to have a grate on legs that you can remove to occasionally clean ash and debris from.

0
None
bd5PhillipS1

Reply 2 years ago

The pipe does not have to be 'sealed' from the earth. If it was, that would be a bad idea as the water would never drain. Having an air intake source would make the fire burn much better, there is no comparison to not having a tunnel. The grate with legs in addition to a tunnel would be best. The ashes could be removed and the fire would burn cleanly.