Steps to making a Girl Boba Fett costume.
Fashion dress gloves
All items were purchased at Walmart unless stated.
Items for helmet needed
110lb weight cardstock $4.96
Super glue (Locite) brand $3.99 each
Fiberglass sheets $4.55
Fiberglass resin $10.95
Bondo body filler $11.95
Green canvas pants $25.00
Toy gun with holster (optional)
Fabric dye $2.59 each
Standard Set of 6 primary Acrylic colors Yellow, red, green, blue, white and black paint with a small brush.
Spray Paint need Automotive Chrome, Olive, Tan/Brown and White base coat. $5 bucks each
Sand paper (automotive sandpaper level 1, medium 120) $3.56
Metal file for smoothing - any hardware store, I found at pawn shop for 5 bucks
Masks and gloves – Dollar store items
Masking tape – Dollar store item.
Black boots – Already owned.
Black fashion gloves found at Halloween costume shops (already owned).
Three belts to make the belt with holster the $2 bucks a piece at a second hand store.
3 Knee pads – (to use both knees and one to use for a shoulder pad) $2 bucks purchased from second hand store
Cardboard – taken from the recycling bin from my work.
Unique items you’ll have to get online.
Face-shield $5.67 w/ shipping From (http://www.rjsafety.com/hp3.html) it’s the dark green polycarbonate face shield. Item # HF4178D
Green corset $29.95 Ebay seller PinkcloudsLA sells lots of sexy lacy corset type shirts that look kind of military and steampunk style for reasonable prices.
$98 estimate. Not including already owned items of boots, pants, acrylic paints and fashion gloves.
The helmet is the most complicated, time consuming and expensive part of this outfit if you just want to go the easy route just buy a toy version of the helmet or really expensive replica model online. If It that’s the case Skip steps 1 - 8 and learn how to do the rest of the outfit
Step 1: Pepakura and Glueing
• Download Pepakura Image viewer (http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/ )
• Go to this page and download the files in either A4 or Letter Format depends on the size of cardstock paper you bought. (http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f23/new-helmet-templates-wip-26946/ )
• Open the files in Pepakura and Print the images on Cardstock/thick paper
• This part takes awhile, cut out all the pieces with scissors and a hobby knife.
• Once they are all cut out begin to glue them together using superglue.
• I used Locite Superglue gel control and Locite professional liquid superglue because is hardens so fast.
• Things needed scissors, super glue, razor/hobby blade, hot glue.
Step 2: Fiberglassing
• Make sure to wear gloves, and mask and work outside or well-ventilated area when using fiberglass resin.
• Mix some fiberglass resin and paint it on the outside of the helmet to strengthen the shell. And let it dry for a few hours.
• Cut out fiberglass sheets to fit inside the helmet in all of its unique curves.
• Mix some more fiberglass resin
• Dab the fiberglass sheets using resin with a brush. Fully cover the sheets with dabs of resin not painting them in as they get to thick and it might leak through.
• I used 2 layers of fiberglass sheets to reinforce the inside the helmet.
• And let it dry for a few hours to overnight.
• Wear some thick gloves to not get pocked by the sharp spots inside the helmet and begin to sand and grind out all the rough edges inside the helmet. We will be using foam padding for comfort later but for now it needs to be smooth enough to try it on and general handling.
Check out this guys mini tutorial on Fiberglassing. he explains the "dabbing" and 'cutting out unique shapes". http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFKUItziZ4k
Step 3: Bondo
• Next mix the Bondo Body Filler in little amounts and using an old credit card or thick plastic sheet to smear the Bondo on the top of the helmet. The first coat does not need to be smooth or perfect it is just a base coat to fill in all the holes. It takes 1 hour to dry.
• Once it dries, sand it down till its smooth. Make sure to wear the mask, Bondo dust is bad for your lungs. After this I outlined all the uneven and low spots with a marker so I could easily find and fix them with the next layer of Bondo. Again let it dry for an hour and begin sanding till completely smooth. I wasn’t to concerned with it being perfect as this is battle helmet and any blemishes will look like battle scars.
Make sure it is as smooth as possible though.
Step 4: Spray Painting
• Once it fully sanded and smooth begin to evenly apply the white base coat of spray paint to fill in any small holes and makes it easier for the next layer of spray paint to stick.
• Next layer is chrome silver spray paint (this step is optional but works really well for step 5)
• Chrome and metallic’s spray paints take extra time to dry. After 4 hours of drying, it was still wet and would show fingerprints if you touched it. I waited over night.
• Next was the olive green spray-paint this is an important layer. Things to consider: make sure this is just a single, even layer of paint as it’s the final layer.
Step 5: Detail Painting
• Once its dry, grab a file and sandpaper start scratching the helmet this is where the chrome paint shows under the olive paint you are scratching off. Its gives the effect of battle scars on the helmet and the top layer has been torn off showing the under metal structure.
• Here’s some detailed photos of film accurate model to reference (http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=15051 )
• I used the replica photos to see where to scratch away paint. I was not to worried about taking too much off, knowing that I would be recovering parts with detail painting.
• Next comes the detail painting. Using the same photos of replica models I painted on the details of the helmet. Standard sets of 6 primary colors (black, white, yellow, red, green, blue) will be all that necessary to make all the colors you need for this helmet. I’m not a professional painter but its turned out pretty good.
Step 6: Visor
• Install the plastic safety visor I used tape and hot glue. There is a template for this in the Pepakura file, so don’t throw it away till after this step. I taped the template paper right on the visor and cut it out making it slightly bigger than the template so I could scale it down if needed. Once it fit nicely I hot glued it in place doing each curve at a time and wearing thick gloves because the hot glue can get on your hands while holding it firmly in place while it dries.
• And I wanted to make mention that the back vent thing on the helmet was put on backwards. I know this is not screen accurate but with this being a girl’s helmet I factored in her ponytail fitting back there.
and the foam padding was taken from behind the kneepads, some of it was cut in half hence all the choppy edges in the pictures
Step 7: The Rangefinder
I cut out 2 pieces of cardboard into a mailbox flag shape and folded it down to simulate the structure of the rangefinder its not at screen accurate but its serves its purpose if you need it.
it never got past this stage because I bent the thin part on accident and ended up scrapping the whole thing. It still looks good without it.
Step 8: The Kneepads
• I found some kid kneepads at a second at store that where originally used for a scooter (I think). I cut those up only wanting the plastics knee part. The back padding part is used to cushion the helmet.
• Cut off the plastic part and hot glued the used the stretchy Velcro part back onto them.
• Then painted them yellow (acrylic turner’s yellow)
Step 9: The Shoulder Pad
For the shoulder pad I cut the just the plastic part off the third kneepad not needing the foam cushioning or padding stuff. i did savage the elastic Velcro to use to hook the pad to the tank top strap so I wouldn’t have to sew it on permanently. Use hot glue to attach the Velcro straps to the pad after fitting them for where they will hang. Pretty easy stuff.
Step 10: The Belt
• The belt is made from 3 belts. Purchased from a second hand store. Along with the cell phone holster purchased from dollar store.
• The belts I originally bought are all different blue's but I wanted them to be black to match the rest of the outfit. So i spray painted them black
• First we need to measure around the waist. And measure the leg where the holster will hang.
• Mark the cut lines and cut them out. Make sure to leave room to glue them back together in the right shape.
• Hot glue everything together with the holster
• Since I had one extra kneepad from the second set I cut up the extra kneepad just for the Velcro to keep the belt straps in place and not hang down.
Step 11: Finally Assembly
• Assembly is pretty natural other than strapping the shoulder pad to the shirt straps required a little pinning and adjusting to lay right. And the reminder to put on the boots before the kneepads as when putting boots on your flex your leg a lot stretching the Velcro strap. If you just put them on when it’s after when standing it doesn’t stress the hot glued straps.
• I thought about making the arm braces for the outfit but in the early stages it took away from the streamlined outfit so I scrapped the idea going only with the gloves.
• And lastly the gun holster is actually a cell phone holder. she didn’t want to deal with holding a toy gun or hold it the whole night so we just left the gun out and used it actually used it as a cell phone holder because the pants pockets were too small for phone.