Goggle in Steampunk Style With Use As 3D or Sunglasses

My first Instructable - please don´t be too hard.
I´m a dreamer and I am filled with fantasy and ideas. Most ideas stay at mine for a long time and grow to anything else, sometimes they die and somtimes there´s a spark that makes an idea impossible to wait any more.
As I found two TEACUP holders at a flaemarket for just 1 buck I knew I could´nt wait to build my own goggles.

Step 1:

As I understood is the meaning of the steampunk idea to design as a victorian that lives in the present. There will be many more explanations - my own stimulus was the impulse to do anything that escorts me since my childhood as I´ve seen Time Machine, 20.000 Miles under the sea or things like this.
The teacup holders were perfect to do this goggle job I wanted so first how to do this:
I wanted  to have two cylinders that look forwards. To get the right angle I made a dummy of paper in the right diameter and took a sissor to cut until my papercylinder looked forward in a mirror and fitted well to my face.
You can (and should) do every leveling you can do at this point if you want to build YOUR goggles. If you feel comfortable and look straight into the mirror you have a stencil for your soldering work.

Step 2:

To get the curve of the face to the cupholder sling it around and mark it anyhow. I used a edding and ripped away anything unused. To do it carefully I did it with a saw on my Proxxon but you can do anything you feel good.
The importand thing is: keep the original  as much as possible. In this case the original border should stay to represent the line to the face later.

Step 3:

It was easy to bend down the ring to the contour of my face and fix it with a wire.
Of cause it reaches not down the whole lenghth so it has to be cut at a unseen or unneeded place. To solder it I used a gas driven blowtorch and solder tin. The space  was filled with a matching brasspipe.
To fit  to the contour it was very comfortable to use wire to bend the ring down and hold it while soldering.

Step 4:

After having a piece for each eye it was to combine them and get a strap. I tried to solder my parts but as I have only the possibles to use tin it did´nt work... I had to do the hard way - filework and used some brass from letterpress printing. As I´m a printer I´ve got some brass pieces formaly used as lines in letterpress and formed the contoures for these goggles easyly by fileworking. At least I made some leatherstraps with springs (for the better look) as you can see in the pictures.
The opposite side of these tubes fitted well to the camera standard of 62 mm so I could screw in easyly two polarised filters here that can be adjusted  for 3D viewing or as any other use. It is easy replace them to any other photographic filter on the market as green red, cyan red or effects if wanted.

Step 5:

Because of the several questions and as I realise that it was a little bit to overhasty published I made some more pictures and do some more descriptions. But the work itself is done and it´s not possible to reorder pictures that shows the work as I´m not Miles O´Brian from Star Trek - I´m sorry for both of that.

As I explained the formaly soldering work to hold the strap didn´t do it. The first two pictures show the results before it broke down.
I had a piece of aluminium with two holes in a matching distance to fix it by working - anyhow I had to cancel this idea.

Next I tool a good and strong piece of brass that came to me as I´m a printer. It´s nearly 5 mm thick and thats matching to my plan to screw everything with M3 screws of brass. I made the lenght to fit over 4 of the holes marked in the picture - the outer to screw through the inner as space for the springs. Now I gave them a nice outfit with a file and marked the positions for the thread M3 through the outer wholes of the cupholder.

The briddle in the middle (I know that´s wrong) is made the same way. Of corse I could screw anywere I wanted. The space between the glasses was easy to find. As you know I wanted the glasses to point straight forward, That is why I made a stencil first. I just had to lay the cupholders on a board on my workbench and place my face upon. When I came up I had the perfect distance for me. I marked this on the breadboard with a pencil and a little mark on the cupholder and was able to find the same position anytimes (even without using my face) and had a stencil for more filework.

Step 6:

To do the straps I had no plan - I just vamped.
I had three springs with 8 mm diameter each so I took a brass tube of 4 mm diameter cutted two pieces of 18 mm down and made M3 threads at each end. I got to my sewing place where I had some chicago screws (screws with a thin but very wide head) and two ball screwnuts wich were good for combining a two-piece strap.

To prevent that the springs bite my hair I wanted to wrap the leather a little bit around and with this measure I did a bit of leather withe the slippery side inwards. The springs were colored with a bath in linseed oil and fire and I´m still not sure to use 3 or 2 springs at each side, thats why there are 3 springs but only 2 assembled..

The leather inside the cups were made by cutting carefully more and more and sewed by hand. I pressed them in weat and dried them with a small flat-iron. They are holded by the screws as you see.