Guitar Pedal With Alternative Interface

Introduction: Guitar Pedal With Alternative Interface

The idea for this project is to build a guitar pedal with a unique control interface. The pedal is intended to be mounted directly on the guitar, with the user controlling the pedal parameters with alternative sensors instead of the traditional potentiometers.

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Step 1: Materials

I opted to go with Build Your Own Clone for a guitar pedal kit, for ease of assembly. I used the Analog Chorus pedal kit, which came with a PCB and all the required parts (http://buildyourownclone.com/collections/modulatio...) Any sort of modulation pedal will work well, as well as a fuzz pedal. For the alternative sensors, I bought a force sensor, flex sensor, and a membrane potentiometer. The whole thing cost me $105.16 shipped.

Sensors:

  • SoftPot Membrane Sensor (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8680)
  • Force Sensitive Resistor (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9376)
  • Flex Sensor (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10264)

BOM for the Pedal Kit:

  • Resistors:
  • 1 – 100R (101) (Brown/Black/Black/Black/Brown)
  • 1 – 470R (471) (Yellow/Purple/Black/Black/Brown)
  • 1 - 1k (102) (Brown/Black/Black/Brown/Brown)
  • 2 – 2k7 (272) (Red/Purple/Black/Brown/Brown)
  • 3 - 4k7 (472) (Yellow/Purple/Black/Brown/Brown)
  • 15 - 10k (103) (Brown/Black/Black/Red/Brown)
  • 2 – 33k (333) (Orange/Orange/Black/Red/Brown)
  • 6– 47k (473) (Yellow/Purple/Black/Red/Brown)
  • 1 – 56k (563) (Green/Blue/Black/Red/Brown)
  • 3 - 100k (104) (Brown/Black/Black/Orange/Brown)
  • 1 – 150k (154) (Brown/Green/Black/Orange/Brown)
  • 1 – 220k (224) (Red/Red/Black/Orange/Brown
  • 2 – 330k (334) (Orange/Orange/Black/Orange/Brown)
  • 1 – 1M (105) (Brown/Black/Black/Yellow/Brown)
  • Capacitors:
  • 1 – 47p Ceramic Disc
  • 2 – 470p Ceramic Disc (may say “471” on the body)
  • 2 – 3n3/.0033uF film cap (may say “332” on the body)
  • 2 – 6n8/.0068uF film cap (may say “682” on the body)
  • 2 – 8n2/.0082uF film cap (may say “822” on the body)
  • 1 – 10n/.01uF film cap (may say “103” on the body)
  • 3 – 33n/.033uF film cap (may say “333” on the body)
  • 1 – 47n/.047uF film cap (may say “473” on the body)
  • 1 – 100n.1uF film cap (may say “104” or “u1” on the body)
  • 1 – 470n.47uF film cap (may say “474” or “u33” on the body)
  • 1- 1uf film cap (may say “105” or “1u” on the body)
  • 3 – 10uf Aluminum Electrolytic
  • 1 – 47uf Aluminum Electrolytic
  • Diodes:
  • 1 - 1N4001
  • 2 – 1N4148
  • IC's:
  • 4 - DIP 8 Socket
  • 1- TL022
  • 1- 3101
  • 1- 3007
  • 1- 4558
  • Transistor:
  • 6 – 2N3904, 2N5088, 2N2222
  • Trimpot:
  • 1 - 25k

Step 2: Assembly

Assembly was pretty straightforward. I followed the instructions that came with the kit (byocelectronics.com/analogchorusinstructions.pdf). The only step I did different was to solder pin jumper wires to where the pots are supposed to be, to be able to attach my alternate sensors. I first used to traditional potentiometers to test the pedal, before moving on to working with the sensors.

Step 3: Possible Next Steps

There are some modifications and additions I could add in the future. I want to make a laser-cute enclosure to protect the electronics from damage. I could also integrate the control system with an Arduino to make it "smarter" by being able to hold a certain sensor value, or for using digital sensors like accelerometers.

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    2 Discussions

    0
    pfred2
    pfred2

    5 years ago on Introduction

    Perhaps we could get a more legible schematic of this device? The one offered here is really too low resolution to make out some of the part numbers.