This is my first instructable and I tried to do my best with something that I love, which is music.
I'm a sound guy and in my free time I play guitar.
So, here's a Guitar Pocket Amplifier with an output of 1watt and minimun of 4ohms.
I used and old DIY cabinet that I made back in college to power up with the amplifier here shown.
I also took one old shoe stand that was laying around and made a pedalboard with it.
It's pretty simple stuff but I hope someone likes them and go ahead making their own.
Step 1: Amplifier. the Materials.
-Empty tin can: I used old scent candles. Any tin can that you want could be usefull. Cookies, tailoring, etc. Just be sure you can fit in the plate with the circuit and the connectors.
-Drill: holes for the connectors, led, potentiometer and switch.
-Board: I used an universal board, but you can use acid on a virgin board. Just depends on your soldering/printing circuit skills.
-Soldering stuff: tin, welder, wire stripper, solder paste, etc.
*Optional: Paint; make sure it's for metallic surfaces.
For the circuit:
-9v battery connector, 9v battery.
-Two step switch.
-1N4001 diode. The 1N400x family will do if you can't find it.
- 2x 4.7K ohm resistors.
- 100k linear potentiometer.
- 4 ohms speaker. Here, 4ohms it's the MINIMUM impedance you can use for this circuit. I used an 6ohms speaker and it works without any problem. Anything below 4ohms could cause that the amplifier output to blow up, some components could burn and stuff like that. Make sure and double check that the speaker is equal or above 4ohms.
- Wire. Circuit caliber.
- TDA7052: This is the integrated circuit that will do the amplifying phase of the signal. The TDA7052A will work if you can't find the first one.
- 2x 1/4 inch female TS connectors. One for the guitar input, one for the output.
- LED: the color it's your choice.
*Optional: Potentiometer cap; just fashion, but for me, it's a must.
Step 2: Holes
Making the holes for the guitar input connector, output, LED, potentiometer, switch.
Testing if fits and how it looks.
Step 3: If You Paint It...
I painted mine, but it's optional.
Some tin cans look great by their own.
Step 4: Soldering the Circuit.
Here's a wiring diagram of the circuit.
I used some wires to give some extend to the components, but where they are placed it's up to you. Just follow the order of connections of the diagram and it will work.
Take your time with the welder, better safe than sorry.
Make sure you only take one pin of the same component at a time so you don't burn the component up.
Step 5: Putting Everything Together
Put the connectors, board and battery inside the tin can.
Put the LED in the hole and surround it with silicone on the inside to keep it steady.
The switch and potentiometer have nuts that keep them steady, but some silicone around won't hurt.
I placed some silicone in the bottom, so there's no pin touching the tin can.
Step 6: Pedalboard. the Materials.
This is more a simple proyect, but still it's worth to do it!
-Old shoe stand.
- Black velcro: a pedalboard it's something that will endure footsteps, dirt, and it's most likely to get messy. The black color will help us to minimize cleaning everything of it.
- Silicone gun or any strong glue.
- Some plywood or mdf.
Step 7: Testing Your Pedals. Adding Some Space.
First of all, you want to pick a shoestand in which you can place your pedals without risk of falling in the top nor bottom of the pedalboard. Test if it's enough space.
If don't, you can always make some room like I did.
I filled the gap between top and bottom with some plywood. Mdf wood will do the same job.
Step 8: Some Painting.
Simple paint job.
I did two layers and no barnish. Just because I don't like the glossy finish, but it's your choice.
Step 9: Some Velcro on It.
-Here, just add the velcro on the shoestand.
-Clean the surface with dry clothes. This will help te glue to stick better to it.
*I used silicone, but any strong glue could do the job.
Step 10: Put Your Pedals!
Put your pedals on your new pedalboard!