Gen 2. HAWC Bow




About: The majority of stuff posted here (instructables) is rubbish and as I now have better things to do I will be less active. also as I currently have no camera I cannot post anything. Oh well the majority of...

_______________________________Please Note____________________________________
These instructions are for more experienced builders. In particular the complexity of the stock made it very difficult to get clear step by step pictures.There will only be three steps here as the gun cannot be broken down into very many parts. Good Luck.

This newly remodeled i Bow. Modifications to the original include but are not limited to: Sight upgrade, adjustable cheek riser, new stock and performance improvements.

From experience this gun performs about 10% better than the original.

Wall of text explaining the hybrid system used in the gun below, don't read it if you don't like reading.

The (i/L) Bow uses a one of a kind system that combines a Pin system with a ratchet slingshot. This allows it to retain the use of a turret and simple ammo whilst giving the gun more power as the bands do not put pressure on the pin. Furthermore the gun can handle a ridiculous amount of bands as the pin is not kept user strain and the user is not required to pull the whole number of bands back at once as is needed on a pin gun, instead the user can elect to pull back first one half of the bands and then the other making loading easier. However the drawback of this is that it takes far longer to (re)load. Personally I would not recomend this for a knex war as the reload time and weight of this gun make the user vunerable to users of weapons such as TR's or oodammo pistols. However if only slingshot weapons are being used this gun shines as very few repeating slingshots are viable for wars due to general fidlyness and long reload times when ammo is reinserted.

Step 1: Front End

includes turret, barrel, grip, sights and bow limbs.

this is the easier half of the gun as it is simpler.

 All the parts are shown then the assembly.

Step 2: Rear End

More Difficult than the previous step. take careful note of the parts, this part is symetrical and should still be buildable

Step 3: Finishing Up.

Connect the two halves and add bands.

This took me a couple of hours to do so I'd appreciate a nice rating.



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    37 Discussions


    1 year ago

    where did you get all the knex pieces.

    True. I was guessing. Rods don't always shoot straight out of a TR.

    Depends on the bands and how good the fin ammo is. 100 feet is possible.

    If this gun doesn't turn out, Dr. Richtophen has a gun that uses this system and it seems very solid.


    6 years ago on Introduction

    Okay I figured out what the problem was. I forgot to add a pin guide in the middle section, it works now. It's destroying more crap with #64's on than it does with latex surgical tubing attached.Might be because #64's have more tensile strength if they're applied in numbers. Surgical tubing and regular bands are basically about the same though. Here are a few pictures of mine. The pictures are not exactly up to date but it shows you what I've been working on for the past week and gets the point across.

    1 reply

    6 years ago on Introduction

    Okay, I built a hybrid similar to this one(more like my own actually), and I already have a problem. on the firing system I am using a very strong 7'' diameter rubber band for the ram, when I stretch the band back to hook it on the ratchet, slide the pin back, and quickly adapt a front end and load it to fire I'm getting like 5-10 foot shots when I am supposed to be getting 300-400 feet with the band I am using. Any ideas? Some help from somebody would be very much appreciated.

    2 replies
    Fred the PenguinSYMEN

    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    Make sure there is as little pin friction as possible, as well as making sure the pin doesn't flick up. lots of power will be lost that way.

    Also you generally want to wahack as many bands as possible on it, a standard load for the gun above was roughly 7 #64's. A final point is that you want the pin hitting the bullet right at the end of its path.

    SYMENFred the Penguin

    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    Noted. Thanks for the support. I am using surgical tubing so I dont have to load a bunch of bands on it. Plus surgical tubing has incredible power behind it and its minimum breaking strength is 3,500 psi. But I guess I could still have an idea from you on how to decrease pin friction because my version of your gun is using a connector barrel instead of a tube/stick barrel. So decreasing pin friction in a connector barrel might be more difficult. I got it to fire perfectly at one point, scary as crap too. It put a hole in a steel door to my house with a finned black rod.


    7 years ago on Introduction

    Made this when you first posted it and couldn't get it to work properly. Re-made it today and its works fine - awesome gun :)

    just starting to build this i already had two bakenbitz turrets built so i was disapointed at the begining