Hammock Stand - Indoor & Outdoor




After a summer of taking my little portec hammock on canoeing and camping trips, I decided that I wanted to be able to enjoy the hammock in the winter too! Our winters get to -35c and it's not so comfortable outside anymore!

I'm always interested to hear constructive criticism!

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Step 1: Materials

 4 - 4"x4"x10" posts
12 - lag bolts (I think I had 3.5") & washers
  8 - 2" eye bolts w/ wood thread
  3 - 3" eye bolts w/ wood thread
  4 - turnbuckles
  ? - aircraft cable (I used high-tensile climbing rope, which has some acceptable give to it.)

 - compound mitre saw (what I used) / chop saw / hand saw
 - sockets to fit the lag bolt you choose
 - drill and/or socket wrench
 - 1" spade bit
 - a spade bit - slightly larger than the diameter of your lag bolt
 - a wood drill bit - slightly smaller than the diameter of the threads on your lag bolts
 - measuring tape
 - sharp knife
 - small leverage bar to aid in threading eye-bolts into wood

Step 2: Design & Cuts

Over a few weeks I would sketch out possible designs for my stand. Unfortunately I didn't keep any of them, but the basis of the winning design was in my head.

I used Google's Sketchup to get definitive angles and distances. Unfortunately my mitre saw wouldn't cut the angle I had hoped, so I made it up.

The main horizontal beam sits inside the notched  "legs" perpendicular to it.

See pictures for more description.

Step 3: Assembly

I set all the pieces up loosely so I could measure it out and make sure that it would fit in my living room.

Thankfully, the notches I cut  in the "legs" were snug enough that it made for a good press-fit against the main horizontal beam, and holds the structure upright without support. This will also help later, when the turn-buckles are tightened.

See pictures for more description.

Step 4: Final Touches

I had actually purchased aircraft-cable for lateral stabilization. Turns out I didn't have any tools that will cut the cable, so I was in a bind. BUT, I did have some good quality climbing rope, so that's what I used instead.

I've got it pretty tight, but it seems to work. I'm about 155lbs, and it's very stable with my weight swinging back and forth. The test will be when friends have had a few "beverages" and climb in together. If it moves too much or the rope breaks, I'll switch to the wire cable.

For greatest stability, the turnbuckle should have been connected to the main vertical beam, at a higher point. This would mean sliding the stabilizing beam further outwards. I didn't, because I thought that it would impede with furniture already in my living room. Turns out that it wouldn't, and I could have. So far it has been stable enough not to worry about.

Once again, pilot holes were drilled, and the larger 3" eye bolts were threaded in. My pilot holes are small enough that you can't turn them in by hand, but with some sort of pry bar (large screwdriver in my case) they can be turned in. I wanted the fit to be nice and snug, for maximum "grabbage", but not so small that you would worry about splitting wood.

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12 Discussions


2 years ago

Hey forke, looks amazing! Do you think it can be reassembled once disassembled?

Thanks a lot!!


4 years ago on Introduction

Love this project! I'm an everyday hammocker (no mattresses for me to sleep on!) who is about to move homes soon, and I will be unable to drill eye hooks into the wall like I've been doing. I was wondering how comfortable the ENO was with this stand, and that if you would recommend it for everyday usage. Also, did it stand the "beverage" test with two people? Thanks!


7 years ago on Introduction

I built a stand based of this Instructable, this is how it turned out.

I used treated 4x4 (only thing available at the Home Depot I was at), something I later regretted when I was going to stain it as I was told the stain wouldn't stick. I guess the wood was dry enough because after sanding it down with a hand sander the stain was absorbed by the wood just fine.

Thanks for the guide forke!

hammock stand 640px.jpg
1 reply

Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

make sure you sand outside with treated wood - it's not that good for you.


8 years ago on Step 2

I2 order for you to achieve the angle you wanted on your miter saw you just need to add a wedge to your miter saw fence. Then you will need to have a saw horse or something to hold up your stock due to it not running straight across your fence anymore.

So you were after 28 degrees. All miter saws are currently set to 90 degrees.
By adding a wedge along your rail you adjust the original 90 degree set to 45. Now just swing your arm over 17 degrees and voila. Also i must say the tip of the wedge has to just meet the blade. If you make the wedge kinda wide you can drill a large hole in it and quickly clamp and unclamp it to you fence with a screw clamp or quick grips. Alliteratively you can just add a piece of wood to your wedge that acts as a wall and just clamp that you your miter fence.
I usually make the wedge longer so i have more straight side as a rail for accuracy sake sorry my quick mspaint drawings are not to scale.

Mither wedge.pngmiter angles.png
1 reply

8 years ago on Step 2

Thank you for introducing me to Google Sketch. It makes me so happy. Also your hammock stand is awesome, and I will be replicating it shortly.


8 years ago on Introduction

I would be careful with your new "coasters" from the cutoffs, especially if you have small children or pets around. There is virtually no food safe compound currently being used to pressure treat lumber.


8 years ago on Introduction

Climbing rope is great for lateral stiffening. Polyester (Dacron) would also work. What will not work is nylon rope. Nylon stretches forever.

Another approach to stiffening it laterally would be to use a 1/4-inch plywood web.  Use Gorilla Glue to really keep it tight. 

Did you mean to put some dimensions in this Instructable?  I believe for most hammocks the connecting ends must be 14 feet apart. 

1 reply

Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

Thanks for the input!

I hid the only reference to size! The 4th picture of the last step shows that it is 130" from eye-bolt to eye-bolt (10.83 feet). The overall length was about 140".

I deliberately didn't put measurements in, as I had two variables that I think would differ for most people.

The first is the amount of space you are dealing with (although not really an issue if outdoors). I my case I knew that I had 140 The second is the optimal distance for your hammock. I don't know enough about them to know if there is a "standard" hammock eye-to-eye distance. I kinda doubt it though.

That being said, most measurements would be quite standard, what would vary is the angle at which you cut the vertical pieces. If other hammocks need more distance (quite understandable, as this could be considered a "compact" one) a 12' main horizontal beam could be used instead of the 10'.

I'll update the 3rd picture of the 2nd step ("Design & Cuts") to show the really basic lengths of the beams.