NOTE: you will need several large carpentry power tools for this project, so just to warn you, you will need: a thickness planer, a drill press, a band saw, chisels, knives, belt sanders and considerable carpentry knowledge
NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART... OR UNTALENTED
Alright, as I said before, these are not actually pics, but i did make them to my standards, which i hope is good enough for you guys
Also, on request of You, if you are making a model with too much space in beween the reciever and the top of the gun to allow the parts to protrude an effective amount to be used, what you have to do is cut out a notch for the parts. This is easiest to plan for when you are drawing the schematic on the lumber. Simply place the parts relative to where they will be placed, and sketch a window for them to move freely. I would Highly reccomend capping off the notch at the top to decrease the amount of stress on the amount of wood that is remaining. See my MP5K or HK416 for an example. (I personally use the top rail to complete the connection)
Step 1: Buy Lumber
First, go to home depot or rona or home hardware or anywhere you usually can buy lumber near you. you will want to buy either a 2x10 or a 2x12 in an eight foot length.
Step 2: Plane Lumber
You will need to trim the thickness of the wood from 2.5" to about 1.5"-1.75" for most guns. Check out the measerments to make sure (coming up)
Step 3: Find Gun Details/Dimensions and Print
Print off the picture of the gun (both sides) and then using simple scale measurements, determine the scale from the paper to actual size.
PS: Use this site, its the one I use.
Step 4: Determine Measurements
Now, using the scale you determined, determine all the tiniest details of the specific gun (USP Tactical shown)... if you dont do ALL of the measurements now, you'll hate yourself for it later, believe me
Step 5: Transfer Details Onto Lumber
Now, transfer the real scale sized gun onto the lumber. It doesn't hurt to have some artisitc talent for this.
Then mark lines near the perimiter of the gun.
NOTE: LEAVE SPACE BETWEEN THE TOP OF THE DRAWING AND THE TOP OF THE BOARD.
Step 6: Mark Drill Depths
Mark off the depths of the chambers you need to accomidate the parts. Leave plenty of space for them. Make sure you use a 1/2" drill bit for the boring.
Step 7: Bore the Chamber
Drill with a 1/2" drill bit in the centre of the lumber down with a depth guide. If you are going to screw up big time, this is probably where you will.
Step 8: Cut Out Model
Using a band saw, cut out the model, leaving out small details, like sights, hammers, and trigger guards. Next (not shown) cut these out to size and all dimensions. you will add them later.
Step 9: Drill Holes for Parts
Here's another tricky step: drill the holes for the parts. Use a 1/4" drill bit, and before drilling, make sure with the parts on top of the model that they line up. Mark and drill (pray before if you like).
Step 10: Carve Details
Using any tools you like, carve out the details of the model. I would reccomend using chisels, knives, belt sanders, files and dremel tools.
Step 11: Add Parts
Now, make sure that the parts actually did line up (if you haven't already). first, check outside the model. Then add them in and insert 1/4" dowels. They might not rotate smoothly, but it will relax over use.
Step 12: Add Detail Pieces
Add/glue on the detail pieces you cut out before.
Step 13: Drill Barrel Hole
Using a 1/2" drill bit again, drill with a perfect (or near perfect) hole for the barrel. With pistols, its not as noticeable if it is off kilter, but if you build a rifle, it'll drive you insane eventually (if you're a perfectionist like me)
Step 14: Insert the Barrel
Insert the barrel. Either glue in for a permanent hold, or have it removeable for if you want to make a removeable supressor or compensator (not shown)
Step 15: Paint the Gun
Now, using spray or brush on paint, paint the gun to any colour you want (just not pink, for the love of God, not pink) I reccomend gun-metal grey or black-flat, never glossy.