Homemade Extension Cord Winder Mount

Introduction: Homemade Extension Cord Winder Mount

 

We have been using this cable winder for quite a long time, it makes every outdoor task so much easier. We don’t have an excuse anymore to not mow the lawn with my electrical lawn mower. 

Sorry that there aren't construction pictures available, since we decided to post this instructable after the Extension Winder was built. Let us know if you have any questions.



Materials & Tools:

(2) 4” x 4” x 6"  wood stock
(1) 9” x 9” MDF or plywood
(4) Wood screws
(4) Drywall screws and anchors
(1) Cord wheel
(1) Whatever size extension cord you need to organize (the one seen here is 100ft.)
Hand saw
Chisel (optiona)

Get wood sizes and types. Some hardware stores cut the wood to a customize size. It’s worth asking to skip step one.

Step 1: Cut the Wood

On the 4x4 wood stock draw a 1.5” wide and 4” long slot in the middle of one side of the wood. Before cutting any wood, make sure the wood piece is secured by clamping it to a working table. Cut out the marked slot with a handsaw. You may need to use a chisel to square off the inside.

The wheel handle will be set in the slot, but it won't fit in unless you round the top edges of the 4x4. Use a handheld belt sander to do this until the cord wheel will slide into the handle slot.

Step 2: Assemble the Wheel Holder

Align the 4x4 wood piece standing it up on the center of the 9x9 plywood. Mark with a pencil around the 4x4. Set the wood stock aside; you should have drawn a square in the center of the plywood. Mark and drill inside of each corner of your 4x4 square where you will need to put screws to hold the wood stock to the plywood.

Assemble the 2 pieces using wood screws going thru the plywood into the 4x4.

Then drill one screw hole on each corner of the 9x9 plywood, these will serve to attach the wheel holder into the wall.

Step 3: Hang Wheel Holder on Wall

Place the wheel holder on the wall where you plan on hanging it. We recommend placing it close to a power socket so that you can plug it in without fully unwinding the cable.

Mark the wall with a pencil through the holes you have made on each corner. Drill the holes in the wall where marked. Insert a wall anchor into each pre-drilled hole. Hold the wheel holder in place over the four wall holes and screw a drywall screw into each of the holes, tightening the wheel holder to the wall.

Step 4: Get Your Extension Cord Ready


Set the handle of the cord wheel in the U-shape slot of the wheel holder. 

Wind up the extension cord starting with the male end, secure the male plug through one of the wheel slots, leaving it out and accessible to plug it into the wall or a short extension; then start turning the cord wheel handle wrapping the cable around the wheel as it is shown in the video. 

Note: Having an additional short 1 foot extension cord will enable you to plug the cable in without fully unwinding it.

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    8 Discussions

    Only thing to note (unless I missed it) - Any extension lead should be completely unrolled before use. This is especially true for 'high' power gear like a welder or large compressor. There are several factors that effect the reason why but the easiest one to explain - cables get warm but if their rolled and bunched up the heat cant escape and they burn the insulation.

    Australian/New Zealand standards (ASNZS 3008.1) state that 4 cables bunched together means the capacity of the cable drops to 64%. This is the same as having 4 turns left on the roll meaning your 10amp lead is now only good for 6.4 amps.

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    1 reply

    Your elaboration is where I was going: The amount of heat is an issue only if cables are pushing their amp/wattage limits.

    Of course, the amount of time the equipment is ran on the end of the cable is, nearly, as big an issue as cable size. A 14 gauge cable running a shop vac for fifteen minutes isn't going to get a lot of chance to build enough heat to damage the cable.

    Next, we jump to cable length - as you increase the cable length the more you may need to increase its size.

    If a cable is designed to handle 20 amps at 120 volts (about 2,400 watts) and is only using 12 amps (about 1,440 watts), much less heat is flowing through the line than it is designed to handle. If a very small shop vac were on a 12 gauge circuit, it could run a long time and heat may never be an issue.

    In the end, knowing what size cord you're using, its length, the power demand of the device on the end of it, and a bit of knowledge about wattage/heat can keep you safe. If in doubt, how much hassle is it, really, to just unreel the beast?

    What kind of cost is involved? Where did you get the roll up?

    dont 4 get to copy right yr idea. or put it into public use under gpl. general public license.