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Step 1: Getting Started.
This instrictable was created in order to aid others in the repair of their odometer, although the only problem addressed with the odometer was reattaching a broken needle.
I also show how I repaired the button on my motorcycle (03 Honda Shadow ACE) that cycles between odometer and trip meter.
Regardless of your make/model of motorcycle, the general procedure should be the same. I did this not knowing the repair would work, assuming I would have to shell out $300 for a new assembly. In my attempt to learn how it works, I discovered a way of taking it apart that yielded me success.
Tools and materials:
*proper tools to remove odometer/speedometer from motorcycle
*thin, flat screwdriver
* clear silicone
*oven, or toaster oven
*needles, or small nails
Step 2: Remove Odometer
Remove the odometer from your bike. Pretty self explanatory title. Mine took 4 Alan screws and one snap-connecting 9-pin connector to he removed from the bike.
After this, 4 screws separated the odometer from the wire harness, and allowed it to be free. MAKE SURE YOU NOTE THE COLOR/POSITION OF THE WIRES BEFOFE REMOVNG THEM!
Step 3: Prepare to Separate Components
My odometer was pressed together. Where the top metal/glass section connects to the plastic enclosure, there is what resembles to be a press-fitted cover, which hold the glass and plastic together.
Set down, on a hard surface, a microfiber cloth, or a couple layers of paper towels, or AT LEAST some newspaper. Set the meter glass side down, so you have access to the sealed edge, onto this surface.
Step 4: Seperate Components
Using the flat screwdriver, attempt to push one edge (starting at the top relative to the seated position of the odometer worked best for me as there was a small groove which made the first needle insertion easy) of the metal away from the plastic frame. You should be able to get enough space to wedge in a needle.
Repeat this process every few millimeters. Once you have this about 1/3 (more is better) of the way around, use the screwdriver to bend up the remaining degrees of edge. Eventually, you will be able to slide the top off of the meter.
Step 5: Fix Faulty Components, Prepare to Reassemble.
For me, the needle fell out of he casing, and I easily glued it back on with some super glue. To do this, I held the needle in place while the glue dried enough to hold it- and then placed the whole assembly in the oven at 150 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 minutes. After this, I painted it and repeated the process.
NOTE: If you paint your needle, make sure to scrape paint off of the needle rest (where needle touches post) after drying, and before reassembly, or the needle could stick to the post, and thus not give you a reading.
While this was in the oven, I pulled the button out by clipping the wires attaching it to the main assembly, and pulling it (quite hard) out of its socket.
My problem with the button was that the wire harness wire has corroded and broken off, which caused the failure for the meter to switch between trip and odometer.
Step 6: Reassemble
Place the meter components back inside the plastic housing, and secure in place with screws from wiring harness.
Using a small amount of clear silicone on the inside of the metal/glass section of the assembly, and AFTER REGIROIS CLEANING OF INTERIOR OF GLASS — you will forever kick yourself if the sunlight hits the glass and reveals a permanent finger print— firmly push the parts together.
Next, take your hammer/mallet/pliers, and tap the back end of the flat screwdriver, as to push the metal back down onto the plastic covering of the meter. This is where you will be thankful for not having bent the last 1/3 of the assembly later- you must push this down every 1/2-1mm to ensure a tight fit.
Once you have done this, apply a decent amount of silicone to the joined section of the plastic and metal.
Finally, after the silicone has cured, or at least after a few hours so it is firm enough for handling, re-install it on your motorcycle!
Step 7: Thank You!
This is a special thanks to my friend Zachary, who provided me with the wiring diagram for my odometer, and helped me determine that the button was bad, and not a critical component of the odometer itself.
Additionally, thank you all who have read this and hopefully left some positive or constructive feedback- that kind of encouragement really makes my day.
If anyone has any problems that are similar to this and needs some advice, my Snapchat is the same as my username here, so shoot me a message on there anytime!