How to Build a 3D Printer

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Tools Needed:

Metric Alan Wrench Set

Flat Head Screwdrivers

Supplies Used:

Main Frame

Z Motor Mount W/Z Guide Rod Clamp

X Face Plate

17 M3x20 DIN 912 Screws

28 M3-.5 DIN 985 Nylon Insert Lock Nuts

4 Z Guide Rod Clamps

30 M3x16 DIN 912 Screws

Limit Switch Mount

Extruder Mount

26 M3x10 DIN 912 Screws

4 NEMA 17 Motors

9 M5 DIN 125A Washers

4 624Z Bearings

Filament Clamp

M5x16mm Screw

625 Bearing

#6 Washer

Clamp Spacer

Small Filament Pulley

Control Board Mount

3 Limit Switches

6 Limit Switch Screws

12 LM8UU Linear Bearings

6 Guide Rods

20+ Zip Ties

Z and Y Guide

Direct Drive Gear

4 M4x12 DIN 912 Screws

2 Medium Filament Pulleys

2 6-32 x 1-3/4 Machine Screws

Y End Stop

Hot End and Fan Mount

12 M3-.5 DIN 934 Nuts

Lead Screw

Shaft Coupler

Hot End Package

Hot End Clamp

Power Supply

Print Bed

GT2 Belt

Control Board

Cooling Fan

3 Three Hole White Board Connectors

4 Four Hole White Board Connectors

Power Cable

4 Heat Shrinks

4 Driver Chips

Step 1:

Main Frame

Z Motor Mount W/Z Guide Rod Clamp

X Face Plate

4 M3x20 DIN 912 Screws

4 M3-.5 DIN 985 Nylon Insert Lock Nuts

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Put X Face Plate through the holes on the Main Frame with the 4 screws as shown. Thread the 4 screws a little through the Z Motor Mount on the other side of the Main Frame, allowing you to flip the Main Frame over and put the 4 Nylon Nuts in the proper holes. Then proceed by screwing the screws through the nuts until nicely firm.

Step 2:

2 Z Guide Rod Clamps

4 M3x16 DIN 912 Screws

4 M3-.5 DIN 985 Nylon Insert Lock Nuts

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Install 2 of the Z Guide Rod Clamps on the side with the Z Motor Mount. Put the 4 Nylon Nuts into the clamps holes and screw the screws on the opposite side of the Main Frame. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 3:

2 Z Guide Rod Clamps

4 M3x16 DIN 912 Screws

4 M3-.5 DIN 985 Nylon Insert Lock Nuts

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Install the other 2 of the Z Guide Rod Clamps on the same side with the Z Motor Mount but on the opposite end of the Main Frame. Put the 4 Nylon Nuts into the clamps holes and screw the screws on the opposite side of the Main Frame. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 4:

The next pictures are what it should look like as of now!

Step 5:

Limit Switch Mount

2 M3x16 DIN 912 Screws

2 M3-.5 DIN 985 Nylon Insert Lock Nuts

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Install the Limit Switch Mount on the side with the Z Motor Mount. Using a needle nose pliers, hold the nuts in place while you screw in from the opposite side. This keeps the nuts on the surface of the Limit Switch Mount. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 6:

Extruder Mount

4 M3x10 DIN 912 Screws

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Install Extruder Mount opposite end of the Z Motor Mount, between the 2 Z Guide Rod Clamps. Install the screws from the bottom. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 7:

NEMA 17 Motor

4 M3x10 DIN 912 Screws

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Mount the motor on the X Face Plate. When mounting the motor, put the wire side of the motor towards the Main Frame, putting the wires through the hole. The X Face Plate may need to be modified to align with the motor mounts. I drilled some of the plastic away making room for the screws to fit correctly. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 8:

NEMA 17 Motor

4 M3x10 DIN 912 Screws

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Mount the motor on the Z Motor Mount. When mounting the motor, put the wire side of the motor towards the same hole as the previous step had noted. This will help with wire management. Align the screws correctly. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 9:

2 M4x12 DIN 912 Screw

4 M5 DIN 125A Washer

2 624Z Bearing

1 Medium Filament Pulley

3mm Alan Wrench

2mm Alan Wrench

Put 2 washers under each bearing and use the screws to tighten both down on the X Face Plate. Make the bottom lip of the pulley sit level with the top of the bearings. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 10:

NEMA 17 Motor

2 M3x20 DIN 912 Screws

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Put both screws through the extruder mount holes and screw until they are flush on the other side. Hold the motor flush with the mount and make sure you screw in one screw at a time and make sure the motor is snug with the mount. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 11:

Filament Clamp

M5x16mm Screw

625 Bearing

#6 Washer

M3x20 DIN 912 Screw

Clamp Spacer

2.5mm Alan Wrench

When fitting the bearing in the middle of the clamp, use a filer to shave off the sides. Before putting the bearing in, screw the M5 screw in to make for an easier install. Then make sure you snug the screw up. Put the clamp spacer inside the other hole opposite of the side you just installed the M5 screw on. Use the M3 screw and washer to mount the filament clamp to the motor. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 12:

Small Filament Pulley

Spring

M3-.5 DIN 934 Nut

M5 DIN 125A Washer

6-32 x 1-3/4 Machine Screw

1.5mm Alan Wrench

Place pulley on the motor with the filament clamp. Put pulley at the bottom of the shaft. Screw until nicely firm. Put the screw through the filament clamp and put the spring on the inside. You will need to squeeze this spring to get the washer and nut onto the screw to cause tension.

Step 13:

Control Board Mount

4 M3x10 DIN 912 Screws

2.5mm Alan Wrench

When placing the board mount, place the side with the indented holes. Make sure you firmly push on it while screwing it in to snug it up. It might not screw up tightly, but will keep spinning, this is why you make it snug.

Step 14:

3 Limit Switches

6 Limit Switch Screws

Wire

You will need to solder some wire to each limit switch. Make sure you solder them in the normally closed position. On this limit switch it is leads 2 and 1. Mount each limit switch in the correct positions. One on the Limit Switch Mount, one on the Z and Y Guide, and the last one on the X Face Plate. Use pictures for assistance. I did this step later in the steps, I recommend to do it in the order of these steps.

Step 15:

4 LM8UU Linear Bearing

2 Guide Rods

8 Zip Ties

Put bearings into the slots on the X Face Plate. Using the zip ties to snug each bearing up. You can now put both guide rods into the bearings. You can also take them out if it helps with other installs.

Step 16:

Z and Y Guide

4 LM8UU Linear Bearing

2 Guide Rods

8 Zip Ties

Put bearings into the slots of the Z and Y Guide. Using the zip ties to snug each bearing up. You can now put both guide rods into the bearings. You can also take them out if it helps with other installs.

Step 17:

Z and Y Guide

NEMA 17 Motor

Direct Drive Gear

8 M3x10 DIN 912 Screws

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Installing the motor requires 4 of the screws from the bottom. To seat the motor correctly you might have to tighten the zip ties holding the bearings in on the other side. Installing the drive gear on the same side, twist it in to make it an easier install, then use the remaining 4 screws to tighten it down. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 18:

2 M4x12 DIN 912 Screw

4 M5 DIN 125A Washer

2 624Z Bearing

1 Medium Filament Pulley

3mm Alan Wrench

2mm Alan Wrench

Put 2 washers under each bearing and use the screws to tighten both down on the Z and Y Guide. Make the bottom lip of the pulley sit level with the top of the bearings. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 19:

Z and Y Guide

6-32 x 1-3/4 Machine Screw

Put the screw through the side with the bearings showing. Shown in picture.

Step 20:

Y End Stop

Hot End and Fan Mount

4 M3x16 912 DIN Screws

2 M3-.5 DIN 985 Nylon Insert Lock Nuts

2 M3-.5 DIN 934 Nuts

Install the Hot End and Fan Mount onto the end of the Guide Rods closest to the Direct Drive Gear, these Guide Rods are connected to the Z and Y Guide. Using 2 Screws and the 2 934 Nuts. Screw until nicely firm. Install the Y End Stop to the other side of the Guide Rods using 2 screws and 985 Nylon Nuts.

Step 21:

Lead Screw

Shaft Coupler

2mm Alan Wrench

Put the lead screw into the coupler. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 22:

4 LM8UU Linear Bearings

4 M3x20 912 DIN Screws

4 M3-.5 DIN 985 Nylon Insert Lock Nuts

Z and Y Guide

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Picture only shows 2 bearings but you will need 4 of them. Install the bearings into the side slots of the Z and Y Guide. Install them half and half on both sides. Use 2 screws and 2 lock nuts for side. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 23:

6 M3x20 DIN 912 Screws

6 M3-.5 DIN 934 Nuts

2 Guide Rods

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Install Guide Rods through the Z Guide Rod Clamps, then tighten them down with the screws and nuts. Don’t fully screw them in. Be able to move the guide rods.

Step 24:

Z and Y Guide

Main Frame

2mm Alan Wrench

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Slightly remove the guide rods that we just installed to the Z Guide Rod Clamps, then put the Z and Y Guide lead screw onto the motor that is mounted to the Z Motor Mount W/Z Guide Rod Clamp. Screw until nicely firm. Slide the guide rods through the bearings on the Z and Y Guide. Fully install the screws now. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 25:

Hot End Package

Hot End Clamp

2 M3x16 912 DIN Screws

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Place the Hot End into the Hot End and Fan Mount, then place the Hot End Clamp on the other side and screw. Screw until nicely firm. Install tube fitting on top of the Hot End. Screw until nicely firm. Install the other tube fitting to the back of the Extruder mount. Connect the tube from one fitting to the other.

Step 26:

Extruder Tip

Screw the Extruder tip into the bottom of the Extruder. Screw until nice firm.

Step 27:

Power Supply

2 M3x10 912 DIN Screws

2 M3-.5 DIN 985 Nylon Insert Lock Nuts

2.5mm Alan Wrench

I drilled my own holes and faced the power supply down. Put it on the side with the control board mount. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 28:

Print Bed

2 Print Plate Mounts

4 M3x16 912 DIN Screws

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Mount both plate mounts at the ends of the print bed, using the screws to snug them up. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 29:

GT2 Belt

Cut the belt to your required lengths. Making sure they are tight and will not slip. We apply these belts to 2 different locations as shown. One connected to the Y End Stop and the Fan Mount. The other belt will go underneath the print bed. Make sure each belt is completely snug.

Step 30:

2 Guide Rods

Print Bed

4 M3x16 912 DIN Screws

4 M3-.5 DIN 934 Nuts

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Insert the guide rods through the mounts connected to the print bed, then place the rods through the bearings on the X Face Plate. Screw them in with the nuts. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 31:

Control Board

4 M3x16 DIN 912 Screws

4 M3-.5 DIN 985 Nylon Insert Lock Nuts

2.5mm Alan Wrench

Use the screws and nuts to mount the control board to the control board mount.

Step 32:

Remove the right two yellow jumpers on every single section. Left is what is should look like after you pull the right two, the right is how it came.

Step 33:

Cooling Fan

2 M3x16 DIN 912 Screws

2 M3x-.5 DIN 985 Nylon Insert Lock Nuts

Mount the fan on the Hot End Fan Mount with the fan blowing onto the Hot End. Screw until nicely firm.

Step 34:

3 Three Hole White Board Connectors

You will need to crimp the 6 exposed wires from the limit switches with the silver crimp. You can then insert or clip them into the white connectors. As noted before, it was lead 2 and 1 for normally closed, so when connecting the white connectors, they have numbers shown on the white connectors. Match the numbers used on the limit switches to the white connectors. Also crimp the white temp wires connected to the Extruder Hot End.

Step 35:

Connecting the limit switches to the board goes as follows, Limit Switch Mount limit switch to the Z- port, Z and Y Guide limit switch to the Y- port, and the X Face Plate limit switch to the X- port. The Extruder Hot End wires will need to be connected to the J21 port.

Step 36:

4 Four Hole White Board Connectors

You will need to crimp all motor wires. Connect these wires with the silver crimp ends into Four Hole Connectors like you did with the limit switches. Connect the Extruder motor to the E0 port, the X Motor to the X port, the Y Motor to the Y port, and the Z Motor to the Z port.

Step 37:

4 Driver Chips

4 Heat Shrinks

Place these chips in each slot with the potentiometer in the top right hand corner on all four. Then apply the heat shrink to each chip as shown.

Step 38:

Crimp on some leads to the power cables from the Extruder Hot End. Run these wires into the slots labeled IEO on the Control Board.

Step 39:

Solder some extra wire onto the cooling fan wires. Crimp some leads on them and plug them into the 12/24V on the Control Board. Find some more wire that is lying around and crimp some leads onto them, plug these wires in the other set of 12/24V. These wires will go directly to the Power Supply ports labeled +V and -V. Make sure negative goes to negative and positive goes to positive. Find a 110V Power cable and strip the ends off each wire, crimp some leads on them and plug each wire into the Power Supply. Make sure to check which wire is ground with a continuity check, as this wire will go into the ground symbol.

Step 40:

Make sure to feed the filament through the extruder and tubing. It might be easier to loosen the clamp to do this.

Step 41:

You have finished building the 3D Printer. Make sure to plug it in and make sure your Control Board is working properly and download any software that is needed onto your computer. Our class used Repetier. This picture will look a little different as I used this printer to print off a filament holder and a leg to help with the balance. I would consider you cable manage with zip ties and wire loom. You will need to calibrate this to make accurate prints. Also a great note is to level your bed with your Hot End Tip, this will make for minimal errors. Have Fun!

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    8 Discussions

    0
    None
    shebaak

    9 days ago

    Nice work man, though this much look like M Prime One.

    Do you mind sharing the STL files, firmware, config and where you get the control board

    0
    None
    keets

    24 days ago

    Looks like a nice project, but you where do you get the parts?
    Supplies Used:
    Main Frame
    Z Motor Mount W/Z Guide Rod Clamp
    X Face Plate
    Etc.

    But you give no brand or shop where to buy. It looks almost printed itself??!!!

    2 replies
    0
    None
    Snikrockeets

    Reply 15 days ago

    Sorry, had to do this for a college project and the instructor had given us all the parts necessary to build it.

    0
    None
    maddog571998

    24 days ago

    What's the print volume of the printer? I agree with "keets".You don't provide a detailed BOM.

    1 reply
    0
    None
    Snikrocmaddog571998

    Reply 15 days ago

    Sorry, had to do this for a college project and the instructor had given us all the parts necessary to build it.

    0
    None
    StuartB44

    20 days ago

    I need a 3D printer to print the parts to make a 3D printer.
    :(

    1 reply
    0
    None
    SnikrocStuartB44

    Reply 15 days ago

    Sorry, had to do this for a college project and the instructor had given us all the parts necessary to build it.