Freezing temperatures can return with ease, and even cooler than before! The story is that Victor Fries was a scientist in the DC universe who was trying to help his cryo-genically frozen wife. Well, as all corrupt corporations and businessmen are portrayed, they cut the funding and literally started pulling the plugs from machines, ending with his wife's death and a a chemically created Mr. Freeze.
This is my Mr. Freeze 2.0 suit. I was commissioned to recreate a Mr. Freeze suit somewhat similar to my first rendition. However, I've learned a few things since that time and brought up the idea of a new and improved version. This suit was first worn at the Alamo City Comic Con in 2015. Let's get started shall we??
- EVA foam
- plexiglass or plastic sheet
-modge podge matte
-Black long sleeve shirt
- black plastic buckles
- hot glue
- exacto knives
-clear wine bucket
- push lights (dollar store)
- toy gun
- Parachute chords (taken from backpacks/ luggage bags)
- small earth magnets
-dollar tree handheld fan
-white make up
Step 1: Belt
1. using a tape measure, measure your waist line. Since this was a commission for someone in another state, i had them create a duct tape dummy in addition to giving me measurements.
2. Referencing the toy figure (pic 1), the main strip of the belt was made from EVA foam. I knew the buckle of the belt was somewhat lowered so i drew that first on some scratch paper and then transferred the design onto EVA foam. From there, i added some black thinner craft foam to create a raised buckle. and then one more level to create the middle square of the buckle. (pic 2)
3. To make the sides of the belt, i added another later of EVA foam. I used my exacto knife to cut a detail across the entire length of both sides. Then apply heat to that cut from the heat gun to expand it. then use a soldering iron to create grooves into the backside. This technique in the cosplay world is called "hills and valleys". Then i used the heating gun to create a detailed groove in the front. (pic 3)
4. You can now see what the "hills" look like once you added glue to the back side of the EVA and bent it at a slight angle. (pic 4)
5. glue the side pieces onto the main belt. Fill the gaps with kwikseal caulk. You can even attach your real plastic buckle to the back. The reason why the buckle is in the back is because pictures will typically be taken from your front, and they won't see the plastic black buckle. (pic 5)
6. now you can add your details. I added an EVA foam coin on either side.
Step 2: Gauntlets
1) i measured from wrist to elbow and then created a shape that would be on the inside of the forearm. i curved it a bit to compensate for the wrist and the fact that the forearm is thicker than a wrist. (pic 1) i usually draw a template out of paper first to use as a guide, since you technically need two of these.
2) then i created the top layer. I knew that the gauntlets covered the hands as well, so now i measured from fist to elbow. i curved the eva foam on a bowl using a heat gun so that it was rounded at the end. (pic 2)
3). i knew that you could see the inner side of the gauntlet around the fist. I didn't want the "Tread" of the EVA foam to show so I covered it with smooth black craft foam. If you have a sander, you could technically sand all the tread off instead. I put a little bracer in the middle to help when i glued it to inner EVA gauntlet piece from step 1. (pic 3)
4)Then, i glued both pieces from step 1 and 2 together. i made the circumference of the gauntlets a bit larger because thats how the figure looked.(pic 4)
5) then i used an exacto knife and cut a slit down the inner part of the gauntlet and added small plastic buckles along the seam. also, you can cut out a section for where your arm bends. (pic 5)
6) now to start adding layers and buttons. I wanted to make the gauntlets big and bulky so i added a few more laters. i started by adding another curved section to the top front of the gauntlets. Start with paper templates, cut, and then glue them onto the gauntlet. (pic 6 and 7)
7) now you should have your gauntlets and belt. (pic 8) don't forget to seal all gaps with kwikseal
Step 3: Chest and Back
1) study your figure and see which layers are elevated. That way, you can determine the "base" of the armor piece. the rest of the chest build is just about layers.
2) Measure from your shoulder to your waist line, and also the width of the chest (armpit to armpit).
3) cut out a piece of paper from those measurements and then fold it in half. Now you can start drawing your design on one side, cut it out, and then use the template since the armor is symmetrical. pic 1.
4) cut out of EVA foam. then use your template and cut away the "underneath" layers to get your next piece. Glue those layers on and repeat until you get what you want. (pic 2)
5). I used white and blue craft foam to create thin raised levels and EVA foam to create thicker raised levels. If you really want to, they even have thicker EVA foam out there (those are usually the square EVA tiles, as opposed to a roll of EVA foam you can find). (pic 3)
6. Seal all gaps with kwik seal and repeat process for the back. I honestly left the back smooth because i knew i wanted to add a backpack.
Step 4: Shoulders
1) Take your measurement. I did from the edge of the shoulder of the chest piece to the bottom of the shoulder on the body.
2) From there, start drawing out your template. cut out of EVA foam. Remember, you should have 4 pieces as each shoulder has a front and back. (pic 1)
3). Create your "lid" or the shoulder. it just depends however wide you want to make the shoulder itself. (pic 2)
4) Then i created little circle pieces out of craft foam. you can use those pieces to eventually glue elastic to in order to secure the shoulder pieces to the chest armor. (3)
5) Then i added another level of EVA foam to the lid to give some bulk(pic 4)
6) I added borders and another ridge (similar to how i created the buttons on the gauntlet) (pic 5)
7) I realized that when the shoulder was on the mannequin, there was not enough surface area for it to rest. i added some spare foam to the inside to give it more surface area and durability. (pic 6)
8) You now have your shoulders, chest and back, gauntlets, and belt (pic 7)
Step 5: Chest Light
1) When i made the chest, i created a middle piece where i could stuff in a light.take your measurement based off the size of your light. I used an exacto knife and dremel to create the hole. i actually made a hole straight through so the pic is inaccurate. The reason for the complete hole was so that if needed, i could just replace the batteries fairly easily(pic 1)
2) i just took out the unessentials from a dollar tree light. you don't really need all the plastic, so just strip it down. (pic 2)
3) i measured a piece of plexiglass that would cover the hold and keep the light in the chest. once i got the right size, i spray glued some blue acetate onto it and slide it inside. (pic 3)
Step 6: Shins: Base
1). Take your measurements from ankle to the bottom of the knee. determine your pieces and cut out of paper. (pic 1)
2) transfer those pieces to EVA foam (pic 2)
3) I made the shin pieces out of a few pieces of EVA foam, but essentially you want to create a cylinder. (pic 3 and 4)
4) once the cylinder was completed, i add some layers to the bottom of the shin pieces to add some girth. (pic 5)
5) i thought adding some cool gear-looking shapes to the sides would be okay. (pic 6) its just up to you about what you want to add.
6). then i added a front cover with a groove in the front. the groove was created with a soldering iron. (pic 7)
Step 7: Shin Details and Shoe Covers
1) Measure your knee from bottom to top and side to side. Cut out your template and then cut out of EVA foam. Then glue onto the shin guard. (pic1)
2) I also added "caps" on either side of the knee . (pic 2)
3) i decided to add a few more details and layers to the base of the shin. the red is craft foam. (pic 3)
4) i closed off the space between the knee and the top of the cylinder. Then i added another layer of white craft foam. (pic 4)
5) boot covers are just pieces of EVA. just a variation of a box. Then, i used the strip of EVA foam with the treat expired on the other side. (pic 5)
6) you should have your shins done (pic 6)
Step 8: Goggles
1. i had some goggle sunglasses that i was going to use for the eyes. Mr. Freeze typically uses red googles/ sunglasses or some sort. i first created some foam pieces to glue in so that the goggles were a bit more comfortable sitting on your face. then i spray painted the foam silver to match the color scheme. (pic 1)
2. i used red acetate and replaced the lenses. (pic 2)
3) you should have your shins, belt, gauntlets, chest and back, shoulders, and eyes now. (pic 3)
Step 9: Helmet
1. i got my wine bucket and first cleaned everything. Then i filled the ridge with a strip of EVA foam. ( pic 1)
2.cut out fairly rectangular shapes and creata a gap with your dremel into the EVA foam (pic 2)
3. glue the ridge of the plastic dome into the gap of the EVA foam (pic 3)
4. I created a back piece for the helmet. just remember that the bottom of the EVA pieces should match up somehow to allow for comfortable resting on top of the chest armor. (pic 4)
5. Glue yoursides and back into the helmet. I curved the side piece so that they could rest on the shoulders a bit easier. (pic 5)
6. here is what the back looked like prior to doing anything else (pic 6)
6. I created a flap in the back and cut out some sections to allow for ventilation. that thing will get hot and you will sweat, which will create moisture in the helmet. I used some red plastic mesh to cover the holes. (pic 7)
7.. create the mouth piece. I wanted to make sure that i could do something where the bottom of the mouth piece could rest into the groove of the chest. i used the soldering iron on the back and filled with glue to create a "hill" (pic 8)
8. i made a grate in the front to allow for easier breathing. Plus, it will allow for moisture to get out of the helmet and not fog it up. (pic 9)
9. close up the gaps and that should be the base of the helmet. (pic 10)
Step 10: Hoses
1. i wanted to add a way for the helmet to not slide around so much. if you used magnets on the flap of the back of the helmet, that is one area, and then the mouth piece is resting in the groove of the chest. But these hoses will help as well.
2. i cut some hoses down and then i put holes through some bottle capes to stick the hoses through (pic 1)
3. I added two holes either side of the chest piece. I used an exacto knife and dremel to get this done. (pic 2)
4. I put caps on either side of the mouth grate and had magnets inside them. Magnets are also inside the bottle cap ends of the hoses (pic 3)
5. i added two more caps to the top. the details are up to you.(pic 4)
6. I added a small handheld fan into the helmet. It is in the space right in front of the mouth. i didn't take a picture of it, but i just stripped down the plastic and glued it in so it didn't interfere with how the helmet sat.
6. this is where you should be now (pic 5)
Step 11: Backpack
1. i created a round backpack for the suit. I made it hollow so that the wearer could have some light stuff inside it like a cell phone or wallet. it's just two circles, and a strip to make it however wide you want it to be. (pic 1)
2. Then i cut a smaller diameterer circle and glued it to the top. (pic 2)
3. I took apart a flashing LED light and stripped off the unessential plastic. (pic 3)
4. The i lengthen the wiring and electrical tapped it all together and installed it right into the middle of the pack (where the hole is). (pic 4)
5. I ran some EL wire through the pack in various places, but forgot to take a picture. Then i just added a few hoses and a few miscellaneous "robotic-looking" parts to the pack to make it look intricate.
6. I was able to use the old Mr. Freeze gun because the color scheme and size were a good for the suit. i attached a hose to it which connected to the pack as well (pic 4)
Step 12: Painting and Final Tips
1. Prior to painting anything, you need to prep your EVA foam pieces. You can either use plastids (which i find to be more expensive), or just use modge podge mate. once dry, I went with a metallic blue, silver, and red color scheme for freeze. once painted, you can clear coat everything to give a layer of protection from scratching/ dirt.
2. If you want to make it battle damaged, you could create nicks in it with your soldering iron, demel, and exacto knife. Then use an airbrush for black dirtiness, and some silver paint for some "scratches" if you want.
3. don't forget to get some white or light facepaint. Freeze's skin is a bit frost bitten looking, so not flesh toned. if you want to be a superstar or are just naturally bald, go for it. If you choose or have hair/ facial hair, consider a blue washable tint to fit with the motif.
4. Find some batman cosplayers and don't forget to have an "Ice" day!