The importance of changing the oil on one’s truck cannot be understated. Failing to do so on a regular basis can cause unnecessary wear and tear to your engine. This can lead to performance issues and even engine failure. Most vehicle manufactures recommend changing your oil once every 5000 miles. Changing the oil on your truck yourself is a much cheaper option than going to an oil change shop.
Step 1: Tools Needed:
Tools needed (see figure 1):
- Socket wrench.
- Socket (15mm).
- Oil filter wrench.
- Ramp (can be substituted with jack stands).
- Oil pan or bucket.
- Large pieces of cardboard or paper.
- Breaker bar.
- 5QTs of 5W-30 Motor oil.
- An oil filter.
Step 2: Choosing the Correct Oil:
You will need 5 quarts of 5W-30 motor oil. Motor oil is usually sold in three different varieties.
- Conventional – Cheapest of the three, offers basic performance.
- Synthetic – Offers better performance at a higher cost.
- Blend – A blend of conventional and synthetic.
For this tutorial I will be using a synthetic blend (figure 2).
Step 3: Choosing the Correct Oil Filter:
It is important to have the correct oil filter for your truck. If you are unsure of which to buy, ask a store attendant or check the manufactures website.
Some common oil filters for the 2010 GMC Canyon are:
- sTp – S3506
- FRAM – PH3506
- Purolator – L14006
- WIX – 51042
- Motor craft – FL2030
For this tutorial I will be using a STP S3506 (figure 3).
Step 4: Getting in Position:
- Place ramps in front of your front two tires (Figure 4)
- Drive your truck up on the ramps (Figure 4)
- Engage the parking break.
Step 5: Protecting the Driveway.
- Locate the oil pan, this is where the oil will come out (figure 5).
Place cardboard underneath the oil pan(figure 6).
Step 6: Removing the Old Oil.
Warning: If the plug does not come off easily see additional info.
Warning: Make sure that the engine is not hot before you change the oil!
- Place the pan or bucket underneath the oil plug (Figure 7)
- Turning counter-clockwise (Left to right) remove the drain plug using the ratchet (Figure 7).
- Allow the oil to drain (usually, takes about 5 minutes) (Figure 7.3).
- Place the plug back in and tighten by turning it clockwise (right to left), first by hand (Figure 7.5) then using the ratchet.
Step 7: Removing the Old Oil Filter.
Warning: oil will come out when you take the old filter off.
- Locate the oil filter (Figure 8)
- Place bucket underneath the drain (Figure 8).
- Using the oil filter wrench, turn counter-clockwise (left to right) to remove.
Step 8: Putting on the New Oil Filter:
- Put a small dab of oil on your finger and wipe it on the gasket (This is done so that the oil filter forms a proper seal) (Figure 9).
- Place the new oil filter on the oil filter housing.
- Tighten by hand ,turning it clockwise (Be careful not to over tighten)
Step 9: Step Adding the New Oil.
- Remove the oil cap (Figure 10).
- Place the funnel in the hole (Figure 11).
- Slowly fill with oil (Figure 11).
- Replace cap.
Step 10: Getting Out of Position.
- Disengage the parking break.
- Drive off the ramps (Figure 12)
Step 11: Check for Problems.
- Take your truck for a quick drive to ensure that everything is working properly.
- After allowing your truck to sit for about 30 minutes check underneath the oil pan for any drips (Figure 13). If there is a leak, then the bolt did not seal correctly.
Step 12: Additional Information:
If the oil pan plug is too hard to remove you may need what is called a breaker bar (Figure 14). These provide extra leverage and can make removing that bolt quite easy. They can be purchased at most hardware stores for about ten dollars. Some people also like to use a large piece of pipe called a cheater bar, to place over their wrench to provide the extra leverage.