Video tutorial on how to clean the carburetor on a two stroke leaf blower. Removal processes and styles will slightly vary between accessing the carburetor and carburetor disassembly procedures. Over time the carburetor can become clogged either by a poor air filter, dirty fuel, or sitting fuel. This will cause various issues such as hard starting, poor running, decreased performance, poor fuel economy, etc.
- torx screwdrivers
- throttle body specific cleaner
- allen keys
- socket set with ratchet
- oil drain pan
- specialty carburetor jet adjustment tools
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Start by removing the air filter cover, on this model it has two T25 torx screws which need to be remove, then the filter cap and filter pop straight off. The carburetor will be next, here we have two 5/32” allen head screws which hold on both the plastic cover and carburetor. Depending on the design of your unit, it may or may not have two fuel lines. Do not mix them up, one will be for the main supply for the carburetor and the other for the primer bulb. There may be some fuel present in the line, so have a container handy to catch any of the access fuel.
Work in an area where you won’t loose any small pieces from the carburetor during the disassembly process. Remove the metal cap for the diaphragm which is held in with four small phillips screws. You may find the diaphragm slightly stuck to be very gentle removing it as you can rip it. Some others you will find are extremely dried out or cracked and will need to be replaced. Next remove the pivot holding the needle into place, this is held in by one small phillips screw. Moving onto the opposite side of the carburetor, remove the primer build that is held in with two small phillips screws. Primer bulbs can also dry out over time or crack which in turn need to be replaced. Finally we’ll be removing the high and low speed jets, some other models may only just have a low speed jet. Depending on your model, you maybe required to use a special screwdriver to remove these jets. For this model a spline tool is needed which I did purchase online from a small engine supplier.
Only use a carburetor specific cleaner as this won’t damage any components associated with the carburetor, yet clean the unit efficiently. It is best to apply the cleaning product in a bucket or pan large enough so the product doesn’t spray on surrounding objects. Here I am using an oil drain pan, I would highly recommend wearing safety glass too because there are various passages in the unit, when spraying in an orpheus, some can be directed right back at you or the product may not fully pass through an orpheus and miss back towards you. Start by applying the cleaner to the outside washing any dirt away, then move onto the inside and finally moving onto the passages. It is best using something to push through these passages such as fishing line. Or here I’m using a torch tip cleaning set, but you must be extremely careful with these as they do have a slightly abrasive surface which can increase the size of the holes, especially in the brass components, therefore damaging the accuracy of the carburetor. Give the unit a final spray down and clean the adjustment needles, then allow everything to dry.
Reassemble the carburetor. As a generic setting to get the engine running for the idle screw is 3/4 of a turn and for the main jet on the float bowl is 1.5 turns out. If you find the seals need replacement between the carburetor and engine block or intake manifold, this would be a good time to replace those items. Reassembly in reverse of disassembly.