How to Make Concrete Stacked Stones




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Stacked stones can get costly, I love the look of it, and I think it would make for an impressive feature wall or at an entrance. They are versatile and be used indoors and outdoors projects. In this post, I will cover the steps to making your own stacked stones.

Materials Used:

Stacked Stone Concrete mold:

Cement All:


Dust Mask:


Cement mixer Mixer (Mixing tool):

Water 5 quarts “Per bag or a 4 to 1 mix”

Cement trowel

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Step 1: Getting Started

Before taking on a large project, I would recommend trying out some samples first to get a feel for the process of making faux stones. As I mentioned in the video, just about any cement mix could work for these. If you want to produce this fast, I will recommend a fast setting cement-like Rapid set. Rapid set is a more expensive option, but I have had excellent results. That’s a decision you have to make, how long are you willing to wait.
The “Cement All Mix” I used, cures with an off white look to it, I think this makes it easier to aim for the color tones you may want. Whereas, other cement will cure with a gray look.

I emptied a bag of cement mix into a bucket, then add water. To slow down the working time of the fast setting cement, I added a pack set control to the water before pouring it into the cement mix.

Note: When working with Rapid Set, it’s essential to mix good, so I would recommend mixing in a 5-gallon bucket. With other cement, you can use a mixing tub.

Step 2: Mixing the Cement

After pouring the water into the mix, use a mixing tool when working with the “Cement All“. For other cement mixes, a shovel is fine. Mix the cement thoroughly, scrape the walls of the bucket and the bottom. You can use a corded or cordless drill for this, just set the speed to one for a slower RPM.

Step 3: Pouring Cement Into the Molds

Now, it’s time to pour the mix into the cement molds, I found that it was less messy to add a small amount of concrete at a time, rather than pouring it out the bucket. Next, level the cement to the lip of the mold to leave a flat surface. Make sure you are working on a flat surface.
Note: Vibrate the mold to release trapped bubbles. You can do this by lightly lifting and dropping it on the work surface; this will also self-level it.

I also experimented with color here are a few options.

Step 4: Popping the Cement Mold

If you want to try the “Cement All mix” as the chemicals work to cure the concrete, it will generate some heat after about 15 minutes or so. You can water it down to keep cool. With other cement mix this is not necessary. The Cement All seem to be high maintenance, but I think it is growing on me.
After about 35 minutes I heard the concrete separating from the molds, so if you hear some crackling noise, it’s nothing to worry about. I removed the mold around the 40-minute mark, I also continued to spray it down with water in a bottle.

Step 5: Done

I think working with these Stacked Stone molds could open up a world opportunity. Experiment with different colors and different cement to find out which one makes sense for you.
Here are some other models of cement molds that can make awesome faux stones.


Stone mold:

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    11 Discussions


    4 weeks ago

    Oh, I thought you'd made the molds. I think it'd be relatively easy. Even using sand as a "base" mold. I've cast molten glass into sand with wonderful effects.

    2 replies

    Reply 4 days ago

    Casting molten glass?! Oh wowie!! Please make an Instructable for that!


    Reply 1 day ago

    LOL! It'd have to happen in a glass blowing shop with a furnace of molten glass. BUT, the end product is super cool! (also literally).


    25 days ago

    I gotta do this, nice brah!


    5 weeks ago

    Thanks so much...I want to make a faux stone "skirting" for my cabin, and your instructions should help the process along...greatly appreciated!


    5 weeks ago

    Thanks for the idea. I've been taking those foam containers that you get in the grocery store when buying meat or fish and covering them with concrete to make fake stone to cover the weedy mess in my hope-to-be Zen garden. The links you gave to the various other molds is very helpful as I happen to have some of them and never thought to use it in the manner that you suggested. Also, the way you mixed the concrete is far easier than the way I've been doing it.
    I had tried doing "hypertufa" using peat moss or perlite (styrofoam chips), but I find that no matter which recipe I use, the result is that the concrete falls apart after a while. I went back to using pure concrete which turns out to be much better.
    Thanks again for the ideas!

    1 reply

    Reply 5 weeks ago

    What if you used the kind of cement that has fibers in it? Or, embedding recycled fibrous bits embedded into it?
    If cement mix is too watery, it won’t set right, so will fall apart quicker.
    I used to get a certain white glue, called WeldBond. Used about 2 to 4 Tablespoons per 5 gal. bucket of cement mix. That made the cement fairly resistant to water, and stronger bond between its particles.


    Tip 5 weeks ago

    You can also start off with White Portland Cement and make your own cement mix with white sand and crushed lime or gravel. Then add colorants to suit desired end result. This will take some practice unless you consult with someone familiar with the materials being used.

    I've seen some use perlite and even ground up styrofoam instead of gravel also for a lighter end product material. I'd be sure to seal the later two products (perlite/foam) with something to waterproof or at least water repel.

    Thanks for sharing! I actually need the motivation on this project as I made and invested in molds over the winter to do similar work like you're doing though a little larger in house brick or larger size.


    5 weeks ago

    Looks good one..!!


    Tip 5 weeks ago

    You can add colorants like powder dyes to the face of the mold's individual stones also to have different colored "stone" facades. These can be found at places like under color products.

    I've also made molds using stones, with Dawn Dish Soap as a resist applied first, before using Type 2 Silicone that came out not bad when thinned with mineral spirits if either you make sure to apply only a 1/8" or less first coat or wait longer before removing the cured silicone.

    Typically, you want to use a catalyst vulcanizing silicone or polyurethane/urea made specifically for making molds or use latex in multiple layers.


    5 weeks ago on Step 5

    The title of this is misleading. These aren't homemade stacked stones, it would be used as a stacked stone facade to cover a less-pretty wall, like CMU. otherwise thank you for your contribution! I will have to try this when I do a little hardscaping.