So Guy's and Girl's I'm back with another Instructables, this one is just to add bit's i didn't add in the Video but i'm not going to go all in, because the video show's it all. :) never the less, this project is a little more "lethal", so i expect you all, IF you make this, to act responsibly and not be a "D***he with a Blade" or preferably not a Killer, with that out of the way, let's see what Tool's and Materials we will be using, this is just for the Blade, the Pommel and Handle will be put on in the near future.
You also don't need many tools, For The Win right?
If you would like to watch the How-To then here it is here:
30 X 250 X 5mm piece of Steel
40g Zirconia Belt.
Fine Sanding block.
150mm Digital Calipers. (Recommended for Accuracy but optional)
Belt sander. (Optional)
Angle Grinder. (Optional)
12" Double cut File. (Or use other tool's listed)
Permanent marker. (Preferably a Black Sharpie)
Machining Square. (Or some other sort of Straight-Edge)
Step 1: Making the Template
So as many of Y'all would have realized this Dagger is made using the ever so often used "Stock Removal" method. Stock Removal for y'all who don't understand what that means is basically using a Grinder, or File, or some sort of Tool to removal waste "Metal/Steel" to what ever Shape it is you're making instead of heating it up and beating it with a Hammer into shape which is called Forging.
Anyway enough of the theory, let's begin.
Begin by drawing you're Dagger Template, i do this by using Geometry as i can't draw so i'll make a Rectangular Shape the same as my Steel (30x250mm) then measure 30mm in from the side and make a middle line to connect the Point, then mark and line where i want my Blade to end, i had a (5 1/2" blade) then mark my lines 10mm in on each side for the Tang, there is plenty on Google you can use, it's simple just make and cut out you're Template with a Sharp Knife and let's move on to the next step.
Step 2: Preparing You're Steel
So here is most mischievous part, preparing you're Steel so here is where you cut you're Steel to shape, or make you side's square, or in my case remove the Mill Scale Mill Scale is an Oxide Layer applied by the Factory for storing and shipping the Steel so it docent Rust, this layer is tougher than the Steel it's self and will cause a lot of trouble if not removed to bare Steel now, personally i used my Angle Grinder for this step with a roughed up grinding disc then a few passes on my Belt Grinder to make sure i had it all off.
So Steel cut, Oxide's off, fantastic, now to the next step.
Step 3: Marking the Knife Out
So get the Template drawn and cut out? Fantastic, now we can put that flimsy piece of grainy Paper on the Steel and mark it out, so just hold it straight at the point and the Tang and draw it out using a Permanent Marker, easy as 1,2,3.
Step 4: Cutting Out the Blade Shape
So here we are at the practical side of thing's here It's down to ability, I'd like to say skill, but not necessarily a trained Monkey could do this, well.. A patiently trained Monkey anyway... So i would just say use what ever you feel most comfortable at this stage no need to rush, well unless you need to be somewhere anyway, besides the point, use what you are best with. A File (if you have day's) Belt Grinder with a Flat-Platen attachment, Angle Grinder with a Cut-Off Disc, what ever you like, the aim of this game is to just get roughly close to you're lines, so get the Shape cut out and let's move on.
Step 5: Refining the Shape of the Blade
So now we have the rough shape of the Blade we need to make sure all the edges and sides are completely Square (90 Degrees) to each other on every side, and sides are 90 Degrees and completely flat if not here is you're time, i would definitely recommend using a File or Disc Grinder (Sander), but you're choice, never the less here is the time to flatten it, for more information refer to my Video How-To. So let's get this flattend and ground to shape how ever you do that, just make sure it's even, uniform, straight and Square. Now let's move on shall we?
Step 6: Marking Out the Bevel Lines
So finally a simple part, after a few hour's worth of cussing and blaming everything apart from yourself while finalizing the shape of the Blade, here you will need that Sharpie or Permanent marker that always seem's to go for a walk when you need it. I would recommend using Black, but Green or Blue will work also, so get that on the Edges and where you plan to have you're Riccaso if you want one, other wise just go straight up, mark straight up the middle, now for the Edges, i was using 5mm steel so i marked 2.5mm and made a line on both sides with my Compass (but you can just use a Drill Bit the same thickness as you're Steel) then i marked a line from the Tang 12,5mm up then marked around with a Square and Compass like a Tenon, then figured out the center of the blade and marked a line all the way up using a Ruler and my worthy Scribe, (a Compass point) on both sides, so with all that marked out let's get to Grinding in the Bevel's
Step 7: Roughing in the Bevels
Like i said before everything up to this point could be done by a trained Monkey, well this step actually takes some skill, especially to have (4) nice flat, even straight crisp Bevel's, so them lines you have done we will be roughly grinding to, so take you're Belt Grinder, Angle grinder, File or what ever you are using and turn it on, this part is simple, turning it on that is, now for the challenging part, (SLOWLY) start removing the meat and taking nice even plunges throughout the whole of the Blade area, not spending to long on any specific part of the Blade or moving you're angle as you move it across the Blank, slowly move it in and steady as she goes progressively moving closer to you're lines, personally, i used an Angle Grinder with here is the key a nice fresh grinding disc, and got roughly to my edge lines and a little closer to the meeting edge at top of the Bevels but i'd rather rough them in and finish them with my Files, personal choice but for me, they turn out nicely flat and even, so choice is your's anyhow, onto the next step.
Step 8: Refining the Bevel's
So you may have noticed i haven't Heat-Treated that is because this is a practice and i used a piece of cheap Mild-steel, instead of paying out for a decent piece of steel like 01 or CS-95 and "cocking up", wasn't really worth it for me as this is a practice but if that's what Steel you are using then follow this step but leave at least 1mm (0.7 thousands). so you don't Crack/Warp the Edge/Blade because that would definitely p**s you off at this stage. So like i said i'm using a File at this stage to refine and finish my Bevels, by slowly but surely progressing and gradually getting to my lines on each of the side's and refining, evening and straightening all my lines and crisping up the Plunge lines and Filing to my final Edge thickness of 0.1mm (0.1 thousands).
Step 9: We're Finished
So i just rubbed a fine sanding block on the blade to make it shine a little until i finally get a little piece of Steel, clamp the Blade down and go through progressive grits Polishing the Blade.
So i hope you have enjoyed this Instrucatable's and learn't something, if i haven't mentioned something or missed something out, check the Video or any question's leave a comment and i will try to help. Definitely let me see if you make one, that would be Awesome. :)
Hit me up.
Metalworking/Woodworking page - https://www.facebook.com/JR-Wood-Metal-Works-94113...
Thank you for reading. Have a brilliant day. :)
Participated in the
Full Spectrum Laser Contest 2016
Participated in the
Before and After Contest 2016