With the release of the 2011 Green Lantern movie, Hal Jordan has found himself the proud owner of a newly stylised power battery. The new power battery moves away from the traditional and towards a more alien looking device. Now why on Oa, would the Guardians choose to mess around with something so iconic as the power battery? Well it seems they know best, as they have been quoted, "We are immortal. We are the Guardians of the Universe. We can do whatever we like".
Here is a step by step guide to making your very own new look Green Lantern power battery.
See related instructable - How to Make a Green Lantern Power Battery (Hal Jordan's)
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Step 1: Materials
Design (I). I've added all pictures, templates and detail to the pdf file, make sure you turn off scaling when printing. I've also added 300dpi images, if you want to print them out separately. I have attempted to use only easily accessible materials, if you can find substitutes to make things easier, please use them. As you begin to make the power battery, feel free to personalise it. I didn't have a detailed picture to go by (at the time of making), so I made a lot of things up, alien writing, symbols, a more volcanic rock surface instead of a honed glass/jade appearance. Own your power battery, make changes where needed, trying to keep true to the basic features.
Design (II). After completing this guide, I came across a more detailed picture of the modern power battery. I have added this modified design as the pdf file, NewDesign_Letter.pdf and also added separate 300dpi pictures (including a more detailed handle design). If you would like to use this as a template for this instructable, some scaling of the staggered lens rings may be required (print these pages at 108%). After that, you should be able to apply most steps as stated.
You will need...
A Number of Opaque DVD Covers (for the front, back, centre and side lenses)
Cardboard (for the basic structure of the power battery)
A Balloon (to model the power battery centre)
Bowl, Water & Cornflour (or Cornstarch for the papier mache mixture)
Paint (spray, ready made or powdered paint mixed to make an emulsion)
Scissors, Tape, Glue etc.
A File or Sandpaper (to help smooth the rings to make the lenses)
Camping LED Lamp (for the glow)
Green Plastic & Aluminium Foil (to aid the glow)
A Printer, Paper & PDF
Page 1-4 Design of finished power battery
Page 5-8 Template used for basic structure (print twice)
Page 9 Front & back lens frames
Page 10 Outside rim and side rim detail
Page 11 Side clips template & handle detail
Page 12 Centre and side detail (print on transparency)
Page 13 Front & back lens detail (print on transparency)
Page 14-16 Lens templates (print twice)
Page 1-4 New design template for basic structure (print twice)
Step 2: Assemble Front & Back Lenses
To make the front and back staggered lenses, you can use any opaque plastic you can find. I found that old DVD covers work really well, as they are approximately 1mm thick allowing a total staggered depth of around 10mm.
Print out the lens templates on pages 14-16 of the pdf guide. Using a glue stick, stick each ring to a plastic base. With scissors, carefully cut out each ring. Remove the paper template, using a file to smooth off any rough edges. Starting from the largest ring, glue and place the next largest ring and so on until you reach the centre ring. You may wish to use a printout of page 13 of the pdf guide to help position your rings correctly. You will need two staggered lenses, so repeat this step to make an additional lens.
You may be able to use some of the waste plastic to cut out the two side lenses. Simply trace around the side lens template and cut out.
Step 3: Mould Rounded Centre Lenses
The centre lenses are rounded, with a 50mm diameter. Find a suitably rounded object (I used the camping light dome) to be used as a mould. Heat your plastic with a gas burner until it is sagging (almost melting). Quickly stretch the heated plastic over your mould. Cut around the dome, removing the excess plastic.
Note: Make sure you don't melt the plastic, you want it hot and flexible, not all over your stove top. You may wish to use oven gloves, as the plastic will get very hot. If this sounds too hard, you may also find a suitably shaped dome in the stores, have a look around at deodorant lids etc.
Step 4: Prepare Front & Back Structure
Print out the front and back templates (pages 5 & 6 from the pdf guide x2). Stick the templates to your cardboard, placing them top to top, leaving a gap of 20mm for the top of the handle. Cut them out, allowing longish side tabs at the base (see pictures), these will help form the base of the feet later. Fold each template at the top handle as pictured.
Step 5: Cut Guidelines & Form Feet
Make a number of small cuts to aid forming the power battery. Follow the pictures to help guide you.
The power battery has four distinct feet in the shape of a quartered oval. Use the base side tabs to help form the feet structure (see pictures). Use the pdf guide (pages 1 to 4) to aid with dimensions.
Step 6: Prepare Sides & Attach
Print out the side templates (pages 7 & 8 from the pdf guide x2). Stick the templates to your cardboard and cut them out. Use the pictures to guide you in making small guide cuts to aid in forming the power battery. Take the front and back structure and tape the sides, centre to centre, top to top. Insert the feet into the feet of the front and back and tape to secure.
Step 7: Insert Balloon & Prepare
Inflate a small balloon and insert into the centre of the power battery structure. Using tape, secure the edges of the front and back to the sides. Make sure that you secure the inside of the handle with tape too.
To prepare the front and back lens frames (page 9 of the pdf guide), print and glue to cardboard and cut out. There is an extra ring to add form, you can prepare this in the same manner as with the side lens frames and large side rings (page 10).
Step 8: Apply Papier Mache
Mix between 2-4 tablespoons of cornstarch (or cornflour) with as much water to make a thick mixture. Add 1 litre of boiling water and mix well. If you add more cornstarch, you will get a harder (and slightly more textured) finish.
Add the large side rings to the structure sides (see picture).
Tear lots of pieces of scrap paper into thin strips. Immerse strip and wipe off excess liquid with your fingers. Strip by strip, slowly wrap the entire power battery structure with your papier mache mixture. Pay particular attention to how you mould the strips from the handle and the feet to the side rings (see pictures). Wrap each leg, retaining the hole at the centre's bottom (this is for inserting the LED light later).
Step 9: Prepare Lens Frames & Papier Mache
Cover lens frames with papier mache, with additional ring to aid form. Cover side lens frames in a similar manner, adding the Interlac writing on the side by gluing on the printout (top of page 10 of the pdf guide)
Note on writing: I wanted to add some alien looking writing around the side lenses, so I chose to use Interlac. The book of Oa is written in this script, so I felt this would be a good script to use. The power battery was Abin Sur's before Hal Jordan obtained it and Abin Sur had made known a prophecy (entered into the book of Oa) concerning the blackest night. I decided then to use a language that the ring cannot decipher but which relates to Abin Sur in some way. I thought putting "In brightest day, In blackest night" and "No evil shall escape my sight" in English (written in Interlac) would have been a little lame.
Step 10: Cut Out Front & Back Lens Area
Once you have covered the lantern with two coats of papier mache and it being dry, you should pop the balloon. Using the staggered lens as a template, mark out a suitable circle for the front and back opening. When cutting this out remember to cut a slightly smaller hole so that you may glue the lens directly to the hole's edge.
Step 11: Paint (First Coat)
Paint the power battery base with a light green colour. I used an emulsion which allows for forming and shaping as it dries. Paint the front and back lens frames and side lens frames a darker green. Leave the writing visible for detailing later.
Step 12: Line With Foil & Prepare Transparencies
To aid light reflection, line the inside of the power battery base with aluminium foil, attaching with tape or glue.
Using pages 12 and 13 from the pdf guide, print the front and back staggered lens, centre lens and side lens details on a transparency. Cut these out and glue to their relevant lenses.
Note: I don't have access to transparencies, so decided to print on the non-wax side of wax paper. I taped the wax paper to a normal sheet of printer paper and removed the black ink cartridge. The results were good, with no ill effects to the printer. I don't, however, wish you to ruin your printer, so if you have access to printer friendly transparencies, please use them instead.
Step 13: Attach Lenses & Frames
Apply glue to the inside outer ring of the front and back lenses and attach to the power battery base. Glue centre lenses and side lenses to their frames. Glue the side lenses & frames to the side of the power battery. Glue the front and back lens frames and centre lens to the front and back staggered lens and power battery base. The lens frames can be trimmed at the top so that the frame is flush with the top of the lens (I decided to go with a higher look - see picture). Allow to dry. I also detailed the interlac writing with green gold to help it stand out.
Step 14: Detailing & Paint (Dark Green)
Prepare the handle and side clip detail (page 11 of the pdf guide). Attach the clip templates to cardboard and cut out. Cover the clips with papier mache, curving them slightly and painting them dark green. Attach clips to the power battery sides (larger on top). Using a darker green emulsion, paint the power battery, allowing some light green to show through. Taking a nail or pen, scrape alien-like patterns or lines emanating from the major lenses. Finally, attach the handle detail with glue.
Step 15: Prepare Light & Install
Take some green plastic (I used a green plastic folder) and wrap it around your suitably sized LED lantern. Make sure the lantern can be inserted into the power battery core. You can simply tape the lantern in place (allowing access for changing batteries), wiring a switch between the lantern batteries and LEDs. Attach the switch somewhere accessible.
Step 16: Go Look for Trouble
To quote the Green Lantern (2011) movie, "What happens now?", "I go look for trouble".
I'm not sure how much of the movie my 7 year old son will get to watch, but given that we left his more traditional power battery back in our home country, I think he is happy to once again be able to charge his Green Lantern ring (see photo).
If you prefer the more traditional power battery see How to Make a Green Lantern Power Battery (Hal Jordan's)
If you are needing a Green Lantern ring to go with your power battery see How to make a Green Lantern ring