Introduction: How to Oil Spray Your Vehicle at Home
Video tutorial on how to oil spray your vehicle. Before the winter season comes around, it is very important to provide some form of protection from the excessive moisture and salt from the roads. Even if you live in a warmer climate, moisture will be present as well which can attack bare or poorly coated metals. Providing a form of protection not only keeps your vehicle in better condition, but it also prevents parts from prematurely failing and protects the value of your vehicle. One to two cans are normally needed for a vehicle, this will depend on the size and if it’s been sprayed before. Just comparing to some local prices, having a shop oil spray your vehicle will cost around $125 as opposed to buying a can of this product is only $15. So if your vehicle needs two cans, then you’re looking at only $30 which is a $95 savings. This particular tutorial was done on a 1998 Ford Ranger.
- oil spray undercoating
- ramps or jack and jack/axle stands
- tarp, plastic, cardboard
Start by cleaning off the underside of the vehicle to remove any loose dirt, debris, or rust. What I did here is simply take this vehicle to the local self serve car wash and pressure wash the underside. Ensure the areas you will be spraying are dry and free of moisture. If you have a concrete, asphalt or paving stone driveway, I would recommend moving your vehicle to a gravel or grassy area as we may have to worry about the spray misting on the ground. If you’re unable to do that, then lay down a tarp, plastic, or cardboard. You will most likely have to elevate your vehicle, either by pulling it onto ramp or safely jacking it up. Shake the can first, normally it is best to apply such coatings on a warmer day as it penetrates better.
Spray an even coat on various parts underneath the vehicle. Areas to spray underneath the vehicle include the frame, rocker panel, control arms, subframe, floor, backside of metal bumpers, metal fuel tank, fuel and brake lines. Areas NOT to spray include the exhaust, radiator, engine components, brakes, plastic components, and tires. Some frame and floor components will have removable caps, which can be taken out, use the nozzle to spray inside, then reinstall the plastic caps. Spray inside any tubular metal structures using the supplied nozzle as well. Spray inside metal components in fender wells, especially around the lip edge. Some have a plastic liner, others do not. You can remove the plastic fender liner or as least pop a few clips in order to gain access behind it which does help, but is not needed.
If you are working with a truck and have tie down holes in the top of the box, this is a great area to get behind the panel. Use the nozzle and allow the product to mist inside the panel protecting the backside. Gain access behind the bumpers by spraying between the panel gap that matches up to the vehicle’s body. Moving onto the doors, sometimes you will find little access caps which can be removed and make it convenient for applying the product. Some oil spray shops do drill holes in the door jambs, either on the body of the vehicle or the doors itself to provide an access hole for oil spray and then a plastic cap is installed afterwards.
Personally I like to stick with any factory locations or accessing the inside of the doors by the drains which are found on all vehicles by a small hole on the bottom edge of the door. These drains can be hidden behind a rubber gasket and are found towards the front and rear, and sometimes the center. Most doors also have a crimped edge which is known for rusting and can have a light coat applied as well. To gain access behind the front fenders, open the front doors and spray inside the jamb area using the nozzle. Finally moving onto the engine bay area, some vehicles are equipped with a plastic or metal radiator support, so that will affect whether it needs to be sprayed or not. Applying the oil spray to the front of the radiator can be done if you have access. Spray along what inside of the fender will help as well and inside access holes. Hood and trunk areas will have drain or access holes where the rust protection can be applied either with or without the nozzle, depending on the size of the hole.