We've owned our '68 for over a decade and have watched its paint fade, crack and chip.
Some areas were down to the metal and we wanted to do something about it before it got any worse.
We discovered Plasti-Dip*. Plasti-Dip is resistant to sun fading, winter ice, cold, and salt. It is also a durable yet removable substance that will peel off when we decide to pay for a real paint job.
*We chose plasti-dip because: IT'S NOT PERMANENT. I haven't painted a car before and didn't want to test out doing a "real paint job" on our CLASSIC. I'm satisfied with the outcome (however temporary it may be) it's serving its purpose well: protecting the car while we decide if we will go with silver in the future
Step 1: PRO CAR KIT
We purchased a large pro car kit on dipyourcar.com
The kit comes with the DYC DipSprayer™ System, 4 Gallons of Rubber Dip Spray,tape, DipWasher®, Decals, mixing stick, Dip Guard, Paint Stirrer and Microfiber Towels.
We used Plasti-dip color: Aluminum for the base and Silver Metalizer for the top coat.
Plasti-dip is also available in a spray can.
Step 2: SURFACE PREP
Because our old paint wasn't holding up anymore we spent a lot of time prepping our car to ensure an even surface.
Using an electric orbital sander we sanded the rough spots then covered them with a spray on auto primer that filled in small imperfections.
We also removed the emblems, lights and reflectors from the body of the car.
Step 3: TAPE OR NOT?
Plasti-Dip can be easily peeled off areas (such as headlights) after you've finished applying the last coat... However: prepping the area reduces the hassle of removing plasti-dip later.
Using painters tape and newspapers, cover windows and areas that you do not want to get plasti-dip on.
We covered the wheels with 40 gallon sized trash bags.
Step 4: WASH IT FIRST!
Before applying the plasti-dip to the car it MUST be clean.
Plasti-dip is an overlay that will form a separate layer on top of any surface- including dust and dirt... so get the surface REALLY CLEAN.
After cleaning the area dry it with a cloth.
Step 5: PERFECT PAINTING PLACE?
Find an area that is extremely ventilated and out of direct sunlight. We painted the first coat on outside in the shade- it was not an ideal location- the smallest amount of wind created a lot of overspray build-up. The best area would be an open garage.
Step 6: SPRAY ON THE PLASTI-DIP
Wear a mask. It is helpful if you have someone that will follow you carrying the paint turbine as you go. Paint in sections as you work your way around the car. COVER EVERYTHING! Even lay on the ground to get the hard to see areas along the bottom of the car!
The first layer is your bonding layer- It is very important that this is a light dusting (50 -60% transparency). This will allow the rest of the layers to bond and stick to the paint. Spray in a clean sweeping motion, making sure to hold the sprayer 6–8 inches away from the area. Allow plasti dip to dry 15-30 minutes between each layer.
We painted six layers of Aluminum plasti-dip and three layers of Silver Metalizer.
Step 7: REMOVE THE TAPE
After the final layer is applied, immediately remove any tape or newspaper from the car before plasti-dip dries.
Step 8: CURE IT!
At this point the plasti-dip will take 4 hours to fully cure. DON'T TOUCH IT. And at ALL costs, avoid any substance that may cause damage to the area.
Step 9: FINISHING TOUCHES
After it cured we put the emblems, etc. back on, replaced our sill-plates, hub caps, antenna and seat covers and added the C-Stripe decal.
This is a big job. Take your time and do it well. It took three of us working on it every open opportunity seven weeks to complete.
Second Prize in the
Car and Motorcycle Contest