How to Build a Mini Nitro RC




Introduction: How to Build a Mini Nitro RC

I like to modify things, make things, and modify the things i make. im no math whiz or someone w...

Some of you guys have probably seen my Nitro mini RC car instructable and a few of you might have wondered how I built it.
Just in case you were, I decided to make another one and take pictures along the way.

It's made from a mini rc car chassis and a rc toy helicopter.
If you were to buy everything used in this project, it would cost about $25-$40 depending on where you buy the parts.

My inspiration for this project started as an experiment to see how much faster a helicopter control circuit was than a mini rc control circuit. The results were astonishing.

This instructable features version 2, there isn't a lot of differences between version 1 and 2, but I considered several faults with version 1 when making version 2.

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Step 1: Materials and Stuff

For this Instructable project, you will need:

-Toy mini RC car
-Toy mini helicopter
-Sticky tac
-Hot glue and hot glue gun
-Solder and soldering iron

-Some sort of cutting tool (for cutting plastic)
-A small-ish Philips head screwdriver
-Your hands

Moving on...

Step 2: Prepare the Chassis

This step talks all about the chassis of the car.

First off, remove all of the electronics in the middle of the chassis, including the contacts for the battery.
It is your choice on whether or not to use the motor that came with the car or one from your helicopter. If one from the helicopter fits, use that one instead of the one in the car.
If a motor from the helicopter is the right diameter but is too long, cut away some of the plastic from the chassis so it fits.

Next comes the middle again.
Cut out any protruding plastic that may be in the way of fitting the helicopter's battery in the chassis. Don't cut the edges unless it's only by a little bit.

Now we move on to the front, right? Sort of.
Take out the screw in the middle part of the chassis and pull up on that edge of the front cover.
With a bit of force it will pop off, but don't lose the parts that may fall out.
Inside you will see two copper coils, and a bar with a neodynium magnet attached. Take out the magnet for future projects.
Now get some sticky tac and fill the cavity (with the bar the magnet was attached to removed) with it. Place the bar back in on the wheels appropriate pegs, try to have the wheels as straight as possible. Then put the front cover back on.

Step 3: Electronics

Start with the motor.
Yes it is probably strange to start with the smallest part but this is the best way to do it.

Put your motor in the spot where the old one used to go, and if it fits perfectly, close the motor's pressure cover.
If it is too long, cut out part of the side of the chassis at the end of the motor with the wires.
If the cover won't close you will need to glue it shut.

Cut the wires from the helicopter's main motor and solder them to the contacts for the original chassis' motor. If the chassis' original motor had wires, connect the wires.

Next up deal with the battery.
Figure out the best way to fit it in the chassis and glue it there.

And then there was the circuit board.
Well before you deal with it, you need to test the car.

Step 4: Test!

Now you need to test your car out. Charge the battery and take it for a spin, then observe:
-the speed, quite fast, isnt it?
-the steering, does it veer off to one side? This is why you used sticky tac, realign the wheels until it drives as straight as you can get it.
Note that if the front wheels aren't level (the same height) you may have steering to one side.

Step 5: Finish It Up

Now that you have tested the car and gotten the steering straight, get your soldering iron hot and melt the plastic of the wheel braces and the chassis so it's solid. Do this on the top and bottom. Then after that test it once more to make sure it is still straight and glue the circuit board on.

Step 6: Have Fun

These little cars are lots of fun and a great conversation piece.
I know that my friends enjoyed watching the car speed up and down the hall and they can't wait for the 3rd revision.

Have fun and keep an eye out for V3.

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    10 Discussions


    6 years ago on Step 6

    thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it!


    8 years ago on Introduction

    I like the way you arranged every thing in that little body, I was thinking of doing almost the same project as you by salvaging one of my chinese IR mini copter as they never flight right, but my problem was always how the handle steering as my 2 ch copter has a tail rotor always spining and I'm able to add/remove some speed of it but no way to reverse polarity to use it for steering on a car,

    any one got an idea ?


    8 years ago on Introduction

    These toys promises to be filled with excitement and fun! Having lost you, just as the world has lost color !

    Remote Control HSP Electric 1/16 Off- Road Buggy RC (94185 PRO)
    Main Features:
    Powerful brushless motor
    High quality off-road tires
    With Metal shock absorbers

    top rc toys Specifications :
    Vehicel length
    Vehicle Width
    Gear Radio
    8.9 : 1
    Ground Clearance
    Wheel Diameter
    Wheel Width
    25mm(front wheel)
    29mm(Back wheel)

    Internal structure.jpgRemote control.jpg

    8 years ago on Introduction

    The name Mini Nitro RC threw me a bit, usually Nitro RC car is a RC car that runs on  a mixture of methanol, nitromethane and oil, called Nitro or Glow fuel. Apart from that a cool little car, a comment from the original instructable is that this car has no steering which is disappointing,  i do hope to see steering in the future !


    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    yes with verson 3 i am going to use a bigger chassis, it wont be huge, but bigger.
    i am probably going to reuse one of the many chassis' i have laying around from cheap cars, but at least one with steering, proportional or not.

    another thing that will change with the bigger chassis is the battery capability.
    instead of the measly 3.7v lipo, i am going to build a 7.2v nicd battery and most likely build some sort of circuit to control the 7.2v with a less power hungry board.

    ive been thinking about using a chassis for one of those cars you control with a watch that have die cast bodies, but there are thousands of options to choose from.

    but all in all, version 3 will be faster and have steering.