How to Change a Turn Signal Switch on 04+ Pontiac Grand Prix




About: I tinker with everything. Cars, electronics and just about anything I can get my hands on.

Intro: How to Change a Turn Signal Switch on 04+ Pontiac Grand Prix

So there comes a time in all cars lives when things start to break down.
Most recently my 2005 Grand Prix decided to start flashing its high beams when ever it felt like it.
After some basic trouble shooting, I discovered the turn signal switch was defective. 

As most people do, I turned to my trusty service manual.
Much to my Surprise, I discovered a very lacking  "take it off, Put it back on" description.
I Googled and Forum hopped searching for a simple "How To" but found nothing specific to my year. 

This motivated me to make my first Instructable.

Step 1: Gather Your Supplies

You will need the following.

1. Screwdriver with removable bits 
2. 90 degree ratcheting screwdriver 
3. T-25
4. Two plastic cards 
5. The new combination switch 

I bought my switch from

I opted for the AC Delco switch. I figured the factory switch lasted for 155XXX miles, so why not replace it with with another Delco switch

Now the ratcheting screw driver model I have is old, however the the part number is still valid with Craftsman just the head head slightly changed.

Step 2: Disable the Air Bag

It is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED to Disable the Air bag.
Your face is about to spend some close personal time with the steering wheel.
You don't want that system live while you are fiddling around near the air bag. 

Locate the Fuse Box under the hood.
The Air Bag Fuse should be listed as SIR.
In my fuse box it was the number 9 fuse.
There should be a fuse puller located in the box.
The fuse puller simply slides over the top of the fuse, 
With a firm pinch of the puller and a tug straight back should remove the fuse.

If you are missing a fuse puller a pair of needle nose pliers works too.

Step 3: Locate the Steering Wheel

Now when I First started looking around the wheel planning how I would start, I thought the holes at the bottom meant something. 
The holes mean nothing for our purposes!!!!

While you are looking over your project to be, you should locate the adjustment lever.
This lever will become a good friend in no time!

Step 4: Pop It Open

Easier said than done!!! 

It took me a few minutes to figure a way to get it open with out scratching it all up.

Random Cards from my wallet was the answer!

The trick was to use 2 cards 

Slide one along the seam while pushing up. It will start to separate.

Go to the second side and do the same.

Once both side are un-clipped you can tug them farther apart, then the fun begins.

 I couldn't get a good photo of what to do but it goes something like this.

With the column all the way down you pull the halves apart.

They don't fully come apart at first.

There are 2 clips on the top that are to the left of the hazard switch. These will need to be rocked back and forth to come free.

Once the stubborn clips come up it will wiggle much easier. 

Now with your thumbs push from behind the wheel towards the dash, there is a lip that has to clear the wheel.

Once it clears it will come up and off

The whole time you are pulling popping the sides apart you will need to rock the column up and down as you are moving the pieces. If you don't move it, you might end up just locking one side after unlocking the other. 

Step 5: Finally Its Open

Now the hardest part is over.

There are only 2 screws holding the switch in one on top and one on the bottom.

The top one is super easy.

The bottom one is where you get to spend that close personal time with your steering wheel.

Take the 90 degree Ratcheting screw driver and go to town.

You can move the column up, to pull the lower shell down

This will let you make 1/2 turns instead of 1/8 turns.

Step 6: Unplug the Old Switch

With the bolts out the switch will lift up easy.

Bring the switch up to the gauge cluster to get to the wire harness easier.

One at a time, Simply slide your finger nail under the lock tabs and give a firm tug to the plastic connectors. 

Step 7: Putting It Back Together

Installing the new switch is easy. 

It all goes back together the opposite of coming apart.

After plugging in the new switch, place the bottom bolt in the hole and lower it into position.

There is a small spring loaded pin that must be pushed in, inorder for the switch to fully seat.

To make securing the lid faster start in the far right lock then while lowering the lid line up the pen with the hole

Next lock in the far left corner.

Now massage the lip back under the wheel and a small push should re-secure the 2 top clips.

Step 8: Putting It Back Together 2

The bottom of the shell will be a bit of a pain to line up, but once it is lined back up there is a little pin that is visible back in its original spot.

Step 9: And Its Over

The whole process took me about 1 1/2 hours to complete.

Now I can drive with out fear of flashing my lights at a cop or evoking the rage of on coming traffic. 

Any comments are greatly appreciated.

Thanks for reading. 



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    24 Discussions


    Question 6 months ago on Step 4

    Having a very difficult time getting the top plastic cover back on. Any tips I tried for nearly an hour


    1 year ago

    I made it to the step of unhooking the wiring and there's just an insane lack of slack, almost none. Ill wait till the weekend and remove the steering wheel.

    1 reply

    Reply 1 year ago

    Nooooo! Don't take the steering wheel off! Take off the bottom cover, the ignition sw cover, the radio console then remove the instrument cluster cover and instrument cluster. Now the steering wheel cover upper and lower can be removed exposing the 2 torx screws that hold the stalk in place.


    1 year ago

    High beams came on every time I turned my right blinker on. Thank you so much! The new part fixed the issue. It was not easy though I will say that much... Took me several hours.


    1 year ago

    This was fantastic, saved me $100s. I did end up removing the lower and side pieces you noted in the comments for more room. Thank you!


    1 year ago

    Thank you for the info. Got it done!


    2 years ago

    Easier said then done thats for sure. Had lots of trouble removing the plastic pin from the wired connection. Saved $200 in the long run, thanks for the help!


    2 years ago

    Thanks for the instructions. Took me about an hour. Now the car can be driven without worrying about brighting everybody. It was worse in cold weather conditions.


    2 years ago

    Hey man I want yo thank you, this helped out a lot! Only took about an hour just like you said and the new part works perfectly.


    3 years ago on Introduction

    This is good information. When I turn my right signal on, my high beams switch on. The peculiar thing is, this ONLY happens in low light situations (dusk, night early dawn, tunnels, etc). I hope this fixes the problem. Firestone wanted $120/hr to conduct an electrical diagnosis to see what the problem is. I think I'll try this first.


    3 years ago

    You forgot to hook the airbag back up.....


    3 years ago

    Thanks a lot. For once a fix was fairly quick, easy, AND it worked. You have to carefully manhandled a couple of pieces, like the top of the steering column cover, but it worked. And i didn't even break anything.


    3 years ago on Introduction

    I replaced switch ok, but cannot get top cover to go over hazard switch and into proper position to latch. I can get it over but it's tight and the hazard switch isn't free to move up or down freely? Help....


    3 years ago on Introduction

    I found it easier to drop the bottom shell down, put the top one on, and then 'raise' the bottom one up, hooking the back part of it first.

    The turn signal also has a plug wire that runs down the wiring harness and plugs half way down. It's a pain to get pulled out and you need to push something into the edge of the plug to release the holder for it.

    Removing the knee plastic and I concur with.


    3 years ago on Step 9

    One more thing that I didn't see in the write up. Putting the two halves of the clam shell back together properly requires successfully joining the simple stud-and-hook hinges together toward the back of the shells. The first time I tried I didn't get this to happen. It seems like the shells would stay together okay w/o doing this, but once I got the hinges together, the shell was much firmer.


    3 years ago on Step 9

    I will add that partially removing the plastic dash piece that faces your legs while in the drivers seat helped me when getting the clam shells back together. Carefully pry the triangular shaped end piece off the left side of the dash assembly which exposes the upper left screw. Then the other two screws are on the bottom of the plastic piece. I left the final screw which seems to be behind the rubber thingy under the ignition switch (that keeps the keys from scratching up the hard plastic).


    3 years ago on Step 9

    You sir are my savior!! Just finished the job in a little less than 1 hour. My '08 Grand Prix has been flashing sporadically since last winter. But since it has started getting cold this past fall, the hi-beams started engaging about half the time. I had to disconnect the high-beam bulbs for a while until I had a chance to fix this. Yours is the only walk through I could find for this job. It would have taken me quite a while to realize that those holes in the bottom clam shell have nothing to do with removing them. And the low-profile ratchet suggestion saved me aggravation since I would have stopped everything and searched for mine in a annoyed rage (searching for tools once a repair starts really irks me). Instead I looked for it a few days ago and had it ready to go. Great job!


    3 years ago on Introduction

    Great instructions! The clam shell steering column cover was hard to get back together. Took about 2 hrs