Construct a slash pocket on a front closure pants or skirt with side seams.
Prep: Assemble required pattern pieces.
Cut out pattern pieces with desired seam allowance. For each pocket you will need one front piece, one pocket lining (or pocket bag) and one pocket piece. The only two that will show on the outside of the finished pocket will be the front piece and the pocket piece. It is sometimes desirable to use a conrast fabric for the pocket piece or for the pocket lining. I have used all olive colored linen for what will be pants for my son.
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Step 1: Align Pocket Lining and Front Pocket Piece
Align your fabric pocket lining and front piece at the slash pocket opening (edge)
Step 2: Stitch Pocket Lining and Front Piece at Pocket Edge
Use a straight stitch
Step 3: Press Your Seam
Open and press seam allowance toward pocket lining
Step 4: Understitch
Use straight stitch to "understitch" seam allowance to pocket lining. This ensures that stitchin will roll toward pocket inside and pocket lining will stay inside the pocket.
Step 5: Press
Always press your seams
Step 6: Align Pocket Piece With Pocket Lining
Flip over the section you just stitched and understitched to face right side down. You will need to align the pocket piece to the back of the section, putting the pocket piece and pocket lining right side to right side (remember you flipped the pocket lining so wrong sides are facng in the previous step.)
This is where we actually make the pocket a pocket. Some people pin their pieces together once aligned. I don't really use pins unless there is some serious easing or gathering to be done.
Step 7: Construct Pocket
These pieces should be exactly the same size, so I simply hold them in place while stitching.
You could also use a straight stitch here, or join with your serger. Since I don't have one, this is how I use my sewing machine to finish the edges.
Step 8: Press Again!
It's important to always press your seams. This ensures that any stretching that happens during stitching is re-shaped and that the thread "melds" into the fabric. It really makes a huge differencw in the finished product.
Step 9: Baste
Now that you have your pocket constructed. Baste the three layers of fabric (front piece, pocket lining, and pocket piece) together at the waistline and the side seam. These will be enclosed in the subsequent construction of the garment to finish and enclose your new slash pocket.
Step 10: Finished!
Here is your finished poket - now go make the rest of your skirt or pants!