How to Convert Your DS-1 to Keeley All Seeing Eye and Ultra Mods




Convert your DS-1 to Keeley All seeing eye and ultra mods. I own and operate the site and wanted to give this information to a wider audience hence making instructables!

Step 1: What You Will Need & Removing Components

For these mods you will need:

  • 0.1uF Capacitor x 5
  • 1uF Capacitor x 4 (or two 0.47uF caps in parallel, it should give the same results)
  • 0.047uF Capacitor x 1
  • 3mm LED x 1 (I bought two so I didn't have to use the one that you take out of the DS-1)
  • on/on SPDT switch
  • 2.4k Resistor x 1
  • 20k Resistor x 1
  • 1.5k Resistor x 1
  • 220pf Cap x 1
  • 47pf Cap x 1

Removing Components
1. Use a flat head screwdriver to lever off the knobs on the DS-1 then use some pliers to unscrew the nuts on the pots.
2. Unscrew the black screws on either side to provide access to the on/off switch
3. Unscrew the nuts on the input jacks
4. Undo all four screws on the base plate
(not shown)
5. Remove base plate, plastic to get to the circuit board.
6. Remove the screw on the LED to the top of the pedal
7. Turn the pedal on its front so you can see where the battery goes. On my pedal, I simply had to push two sides of the clips together and lift out the switch. The wires were soldered through the pedal so I unsoldered the purple and black wires and set the switch aside.

You should now be able to completely remove the circuit from the housing.

Step 2: Removing Components

Remove C1, C3, C5, C12, C13 - these are silver in colour and look like they are covered in plastic (see below diagram)

Remove C2, C8, C9, C14 - Rather than being silver, these look like small black batteries (see below diagram)

Remove C11, R13, R14, R39, C7, D5 - This is a more mixed bunch, there's some silver caps, resistors and a ceramic cap. (see below diagram)

Step 3: Putting in the New Components

  • Place a 2.4k resistor in R13
  • Place a 20k resistor in R39
  • Place a 1.5k resistor in R14
  • C1, C3, C5, C12, C13 all need to be installed with 0.1Uf Caps
  • C2, C8, C9, C14 need to have 1uF caps installed (on the referance diagram I used two 0.47uF caps soldered together)
  • C11 needs to have a 0.047uF cap
  • C7 needs to be changed to a 220pf cap

See below diagram for how they sould look in place

  • Solder a 47pf cap across clipping diodes, you will need to look at the below image to see where to solder it.

Step 4: Switching Between the All-seeing Eye and Ultra Mods

Just a little warning - this is the hardest part of the mod.

First of all, its worth noting that it is a lot easier to not use a switch and just leave the pedal in either ASE or Ultra modes. If you just want the All seeing eye mod, you will need to remove D5 and replece it with an LED. If you want the Ultra mod, you will need to put a LED in series with D4 as well as changing D5. Difficult to get your head arround, check the diagram if you want it fixed in one mode.

Adding a switch is a little more complex, take these steps and you should be fine:

1. Undsolder D4 on the right hand side (this is the side with the black stripe on the diode)
and send that wire to the middle lug of the switch.
2. You then wire the + side of the LED to one of the two remaining lugs, it dosn't really matter which one.
The longer leg should be positive (
3. Send a piece of wire from the last remaining lug and the negative side of the LED to the space in D4.

(See 2nd referance diagram)

If you are installing a new check LED, note which side of the LED was + and - and put the new LED in accordingly - if you forget or don't know don't worry it wont damage the LED if you try it both ways. Usually, most 3mm LEDs will work with the current resistor in, but if you are using a 5mm LED change R35 to a 2k4 resistor.

Step 5: Re-Assembly

If you have used a switch this is important, you have to decide where to put it! The most room is on the sides just below the jacks, this however does look kinda clumsy and is kinda difficult to reach. The alternative is on the face of the pedal where all the knobs are. This is a bit more difficult, but looks a lot better. My pedal has the Keeley switch on the front and two more switches on the side (one for circuit bending and the other for switching between two capacitors).

If you want it on the front, be careful when drilling and make sure that you don't damage the components! (I took mine out for this bit) Remember to use a punch so the drill dosn't move (if you don't have a propper one, use a screw).

The easiest way to assemble is probably like this:

  • Bolt the switch to the front of the pedal
  • Attach the ASE LED to the front of the pedal
  • Screw the 'Check' LED to the pedal from the inside
  • Attach the jacks
  • Push the pots through the holes and screw them in
  • Make sure the 9V adapter is in its hole and push the back of the circuit down so the back will screw on
  • If you did any circuit bends and put the switches on the sides, wire them up now and attatch the switches to the side
  • Put the plastic behind the circuit and screw the pedal together!

Step 6: Sound Clips



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    70 Discussions


    3 years ago


    if your going to try this make sure i repeate make sure you use 50v caps not 100 150 200 300 w/e because i made the mistake of putting in like 300 600 volt caps and that really sucked the tone out when i hit big chords... just a heads up 50V'S :)


    6 years ago on Introduction

    hi, this only shows how to add 1 toggle switch but what are the other 2?


    6 years ago on Introduction

    Hi there, i was looking for how to Keeley and i found this.. but the question is that -- i cannot find actually how it sounds??? can anyone plzz share some sort of audio clip of pedal that has gone through this mod.. so that the decision to try this mod becomes easier.. If you cannot share here plzz email me.. its

    Hey there, I followed the steps for the mod but when putting it back together and testing it out had some difficulties. First of all, the 2nd LED only lights up when I am playing through the pedal, it isn't a constant glow as I anticipated. Second, and the more annoying problem, is that when I turn the distortion up past just about 9 o'clock I get a ridiculous bass growl that persists.. I'm unsure if maybe the cables connecting the switch are too long and causing a grounding problem.. or if maybe I messed up along the way.


    8 years ago on Introduction

    I did this mod, everything works perfect except the volume. Volume changes have no effect on output. Any ideas where I should start to look where I messed up? Thanx in advance.


    9 years ago on Step 4

    can someone tell me what the value of the diode is for D4? accidentally broke mine in half trying to take it off :(

    1 reply

    Reply 8 years ago on Step 4

    the non-LED diode? u should be able to look it up on google or something based on the colors of the bands


    8 years ago on Step 4

    I just finished the mods, and I have a couple of questions: 1. Why would my check light always stay lit, and my switch not work to turn the pedal off? It seems I may have done something putting it back together, I guess. 2. I think my pedal is only in ASEM mode. The LED always flashes, and there is no change when I flip the switch to change to the Ultra Mod. Any insight into this? 3. This thing is outrageously loud now. Is that normal? Thanks for the mod. Some help with these issues and I'll be all set.

    1 reply

    Reply 8 years ago on Step 4

    i'm just a noob talkin but i think it flashes because it turns off when there is no signal... that's the pattern i noticed when i watched a comparison video on youtube. dunno about ur other question about always being in ASEM mode but i think the vol is suppose to be that loud.. cause before it was quiet and muddy.. if u watch that video you can hear that this mod will make it brighter and fuller


    8 years ago on Step 4

    This was an easy mod and well written. Sounds great also!


    8 years ago on Step 3

    Instead of soldering the 47pf cap on the bottom of the board, it can be wired in parallel with D4 or D5. The 47pf cap I got was too big for the bottom of the board so I put the capacitor in the holes for D5 and soldered the led to the leads of the capacitor.


    8 years ago on Introduction

    I also used a different set of diodes for my clipping section. I used a germanium diode in series with a silicon diode I4001 in d5 then a 5mm led in d4. Sounds really fat and tube like. Reacts well to your playing and cleans up nice with volume control.


    8 years ago on Step 6

    To change the high end, there are a couple of components that help. R14 is one but effects the bass as well. The higher the value of the resistor, the lower the highs and the more bass is added. R17 is the next one and the lower the value the lower the less highs you have. Try a 10k in R14 and 2.2K in R17 and see where you are then go from there.


    11 years ago on Introduction

    here is the exact parts list for smallbear electronics.i just ordered it.
    Small Bear Electronics Stock List Items
    1 Capacitor, Panasonic ECQ-B 100 pf. - 390 pf. (220 pf.) @ $0.30 = $0.30
    5 Capacitor, Panasonic ECQ-B .056 mf. - .1 mf. (.1 mf.) @ $0.30 = $1.50
    4 Capacitor, CDE DME Series, 1 mf. 100 V @ $0.70 = $2.80
    1 Capacitor, Panasonic ECQ-B 470 pf. - .047 mf. (.047 mf.) @ $0.25 = $0.25
    1 Capacitor Silver Mica 500V 10 pf. - 150 pf. (47 pf.) @ $0.55 = $0.55
    2 LED T-1 3 mm Red, Clear Diffused @ $0.25 = $0.50
    1 Switch - SPDT Toggle Mountain Sw MS-550A @ $1.80 = $1.80
    1 Metal Film 6.8K To 39K Individual (20K) @ $0.20 = $0.20
    1 Metal Film 1.1K To 6.2K Individual (1.5K) @ $0.20 = $0.20
    1 1.1K to 6.2K - Individual (2.4K) @ $0.15 = $0.15

    3 replies

    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

     what is the different between
    - Capacitor, BC Components, 1 mf. 63V
    - Capacitor, CDE DME Series, 1 mf. 100 V
    cause i ordered the same one as yours (CDE DME one)
    but it looks different than the Keeley one

    Small Bear is kind of weird in the way they list their capacitance values. Instead of using uF or the mu- symbol, they use mF for "micro-farads." This is genuinely confusing since mF in the SI system really means "milli-farads." Since you rarely ever see caps in the milli-farad range (if ever) when working with guitar pedals, I suppose we can forgive them for this little quirk.

    I've ordered from them many times before without incident. Just remember mF = uF on their site and everything will be fine.