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Introduction:

About: I'm 21, and I have a profound interest in electronics, lasers and Geology.

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Step 1: Making the Forge

Step 2:

Step 3: Dank Memes

Step 4: Use Your Bum

Step 5: Lump

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    10 Discussions

    0
    lowtechlou
    lowtechlou

    8 years ago on Step 5

    FYI

    I would not forge REBAR...Rebar is usually a "NO SPEC" STEEL...that means it has a broad range of chemistry...that includes LEAD, it can have lead in the mix and the lead will come out in the forging process...and it will be inhaled by you...

    the same goes steel that is galvanized....

    0
    zhenderson
    zhenderson

    Reply 8 years ago on Step 5

    As a metallurgical engineer in training I strongly suggest Staying away from materials that you don"t Know of chemistry Also if heat strengthening is desired I suggest using a Critical cooling curve diagram, or a equilibrium phase diagram for your material to achieve correct temps for hardening

    0
    inund8
    inund8

    Reply 5 years ago on Step 5

    What about using steel from leaf springs on trucks?

    0
    K0m0nd0r
    K0m0nd0r

    Reply 2 years ago

    While springs typically do not have specs attributed to them, they are usually made of high carbon steel. Safer than rebar, but look into the spring, see if you can't find a composition sheet for it.

    0
    AJMansfield
    AJMansfield

    6 years ago on Introduction

    I object to the idea that "a leafblower will not work". I have used a leaf blower for this sort of thing several times, and it works great. You just need to make sure the air intakes are not blocked (set it on its side). If its too much air, just set it a little further away from the furnace/forge/grill air intake.

    0
    David•_•
    David•_•

    6 years ago

    This is so amazing. I'm going to start trying to forge weapons and I searched all over the Internet for this exact thing.
    Thank you.

    0
    Tim Temple
    Tim Temple

    7 years ago on Introduction

    The Big Box hardware stores rent tools and therefore have worn out jack hammer bits that are high grade steel.

    0
    Anonbonbon
    Anonbonbon

    8 years ago on Introduction

    This tutorial is perfect for me, I keep seeing all these complicated or specialized coal forge tutorials, and do they frustrate me!
    But this is awesome and super simple. I'll probably make this in my backyard today!

    Kickin' job man, hope you keep making more tutorials on this kinda stuff.

    BTW did you ever make a tutorial that was a little more in depth on making the tongs?

    0
    ironsmiter
    ironsmiter

    8 years ago on Introduction

    First, let me say, Welcome to the Big And Black metalworking family.
    You'll never look at jewelry instructables again :-)


    Unless you're making camping stakes, avoid rebar.
    Most of that stuff is LITERALLY junk steel. They take a random mix of steels and irons, that aren't used for anything else, mix it all up, turn it into bars, and roll it out with the ridge pattern.

    There ARE different grades of the stuff, some of which are very nice, but the normal stuff used in concrete construction... leave it for construction industry.

    "2. Leather gloves. The thicker, the better. I used some welding ones I had, and boy, do they help prevent burns a lot!"

    I use Gas Tungsten Arc(aka TIG) welding gloves for most smithing.
    The leather is thick enough to protect from sparks, and most sharp steel, but thin enough to give you a good feel for what you're doing.

    Yes, leather gloves are NICE to have. But don't rely on them for protecting you from burns. All they really do is DELAY the burn. If the metal is too hot to hold with your bare hand, either leave it attacked to the longer stock, and cut off LAST, or, use tongs.
    These safer practices, combined WITH gloves should make for many years of Happy Hammering.