Improved Optical End-Stop

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I am in the process of building a Rep Rap Prusa 3D printer, and I have this habit of trying to re-invent the wheel. I started researching electronics and really disliked everything I found,

I had originally ordered some gen 2.1 Opto boards, which I decided were too large for the printed clamps.

After some research I found the most recent End-stop http://reprap.org/wiki/Gen7_Endstop_1.3.1, looks like somebody's after-thought.

So I decided to design my own....

Step 1: The Design

I started with the schematic from the Gen 7 end-stop and went from there. My biggest problem with the schematic is that the output signal (probably) will not give a 5v high output, according to my math the output will range from 0- 3.7v. I'm sot sure what a digital input pin on an arduino will accept as a high but I would rather the output could go the full 5 volts.

I used the same photo-interrupter TCST2103 and corresponding current limiting resistor as well as the pull up resistor for the photo-transistor.

It needed to have an led for debug purposes but I couldn't decide on the final wiring, so I left 3 different component landings near the end of the board. The idea is for the builder to use whatever landings they feel necessary: led on all the time, led on when the sensor is blocked and led on when the sensor is not blocked. Use the 2nd one with caution because it will also have an output high of 3.7 volts.

The board was carefully sized to fit onto a Prusa End-stop holder with minimal overhang. The connector is placed at the end of the board so the wires can be routed out of the way.

Board Parts:
The board (3 ordered from http://oshpark.com/ for around $5)
TCST2103 Photo-interrupter
blue led (surface mount 0805)
180 ohm resistor (surface mount 0805)
2.2k ohm resistor (surface mount 0805)
2 - 1k ohm resistor (surface mount 0805)
Plus a complete assembly of a ~.1" pitch male/female connector (don't forget pins), or solder wires directly to the board. This project was designed to use a 2.5mm pitch JST connector.

Mounting Parts(assuming mounting to Prusa):
Printed end-stop holder
2 - M3X18 screws or similar
3 - M3 nuts
2 - non conductive spacers or small diameter washers to space the board from the printed holder
M3X25 screw

Step 2: Assembly and Operation

The three component landing on the top of the board allow for 3 different led/resistor combinations, its up to you to choose one:
Option1 - Place the resistor on the "G" pin of the connector and the LED on the "V" pin with the anode pointing away from the Photo-interrupter. The LED will be on as long as the board is powered.
Option2 - Place the resistor on the "G" pin of the connector and the LED on the "S" pin with the anode pointing away from the Photo-interrupter. The LED will be on when the Photo-interrupter is blocked.
Option3 - Place the resistor on the "V" pin of the connector and the LED on the "S" pin with the anode pointing towards the Photo-interrupter. The LED will be on when the Photo-interrupter is not blocked. (recommended)

Assembly will vary on what kind of tools you have on hand, I used a hot air re-work station and solder paste. Generally you should probably start with the surface-mount components and then move onto through-hole.

Surface-Mount
R1 - 180 ohm, Emitter current limiting resistor
R2 - 2.2k ohm, Signal pull up resistor
LED/1k ohm Resistor combination

Through-Hole
TCST2103
2.5mm JST connector

Then all you have to do is mount it.

The Signal will be LOW when unblocked and HIGH when blocked, The board should be powered with 5 volts, the resistors must be changed if you need to use a different voltage.

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    8 Discussions

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    kebenstein

    Question 3 months ago

    Hello,

    Excellent write-up! Thank YOU!

    Question: Can I reverse the LOW and HIGH states?

    (I have a Formlabs Form1+ that does not allow for this change to happen in user-land firmware.)

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    fallingdown

    12 months ago

    Hi. I bought a bunch of these for my 3d printer build and I'm trying to wire up two per axis (X-, X+ etc) to a xPro V3. Problem is, if I wire two of these up in parallel neither will trigger. If I add a resistor between the signals one will trigger but not the other. I tried wiring in series but no luck (maybe I did wrong though, lol). Any suggestions?

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    SEARLSINC

    3 years ago

    Hi. Great job on the article. I'll get right to the point. I'm working on a special project. If you haven't already noticed. It's 1984 again. The Rep Rap community is our modern day "Home brew". The tech world is on the edge of a new renaissance, and I'm betting everything that 3D printing tech will lead the way. I'm aiming to be the next Apple, and I'm looking for my Wozniak. From what i read you could be him. If you're interested please contact me at searlsinc@icloud.com and let talk. "Those crazy enough to believe they can change the world will." Regards.

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    user21395647

    5 years ago on Introduction

    good job!
    Your design of optical end-stops selling on ebay.com (http://www.ebay.com/itm/3pcs-Opto-Endstop-Switch-Kit-for-CNC-3D-Printer-RepRap-Makerbot-Prusa-Mendel-/390591025467?pt=Kunststoffe_Chemie&hash=item5af10a113b) and i am buying :)
    Could you add a sketch of dimensions with holes. thank you.

    1 reply
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    soswowuser21395647

    Reply 3 years ago on Introduction

    For those who are looking for this answer: https://grabcad.com/library/opto-endstop-tcst2103-1

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    Jason-Bamandaghassaei

    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    Nope, every time I get involver in a project I feel that I have to "re-invent the wheel". My most recent snag was slipping belts for which I spent several days machining aluminum belt tensioners.

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    DIY-GuyJason-B

    Reply 5 years ago on Introduction

    Jason-B: You go right on ahead and re-invent the wheel, I like your thought processes!