This fix worked for part # 3JAT9HATP05 and 3JAT9HATP21.
But probably could work for other models.
Well like everbody else who has purchased a HP DV9000 laptop, my left
hinge has cracked and in doing so, also broke the embedded locknuts in
the top LCD cover. I have had this HP DV 9000 for under a year but refuse
to send it back for service. I havent tried to contact HP after reading
all the hell stories everybody else have had in doing so... So being creative
and having all the tools, I decided to give it a shot to fix it myself after
looking for parts and seeing a $200+ price tag. My laptop now closes like
new and the monitor turns off when in closed position.
I wouldnt recommend just anyone trying this repair if you dont have patience
and a little bit of mechanical know-how... There are a few steps here that are
critical that they are done correctly or the LCD screen wont fit back into the
case chassis. I will try to go into futher detail with the step by step pictures
that I have taken during my repair. *Any pieces that are removed must be put
into a separate container so they will not be lost during the repair process!!
YOU are on your own with this fix!
It worked for me but I can not be held
responsible for voiding your warranty
or if you break your laptop any further
because you tried my fix.
I would also read through the whole page to familiarize
yourself before trying this and to locate items I might not
have spoke of in the tools and materials needed lists.
If you have questions : HINGEFIX@hotmail.com
mini Phillips Head screwdriver
mini Flat Head screwdriver
2 or 4 - 1" mini clamps
pop rivot gun
1/16" metal cutting drill bit - (step 12)
1/8" metal cutting drill bit - (or smaller depending on your pop rivot size)
3/16" metal cutting drill bit - (or smaller depending on screw head size in step 12)
Devcon Plastic Welder
2" stanley L bracket - (get more than 1 in case of error!)
fast drying super glue for arm - (step 9)
paper towels - (for your LCD)
something to mix epoxy on
something to put your removed parts into
1/8" pop rivots
You must remove the 3 little rubber screw covers located on the top edge
of the laptop screen at the right, center & left side using the mini flat head
screwdriver. Then remove the 3 screws located under the rubber covers.
Then you must remove the outer screen bezel, which unsnaps. Be very
careful not to force the plastic for it may crack! I would start from the
left hinge corner which is probably open, working clockwise with the little
flat head screwdriver prying it apart every inch or so. You may also have
to remove the bottom right andl eft rubber screw covers and remove
those screws as well to free the bezel.
Now that the LCD is fully exposed you can see how destroyed the hinge
and assembly points are damaged DUE TO POOR CONSTRUCTION BY
THE MANUFACTURER'S DESIGN!!!
Then you must unscrew the 2 very small screws that are on the left hinge
connecting to the LCD screen. Now take notice how much space is between
the bottom of the LCD screen and the left hinge assembly. For this is one
of the things that can make this repair render your efforts useless when
you try to reassemble! There is only about 1/16" clearance.
Now you must free the tired hinge. Depending on how far trashed your
top cover mounting points are. Try to unscrew the 4 little phillips head
screws from the hinge (only 3 if you took out the one that was covered
by the rubber screw cover already) If the screws turn and do not come
loose the mounting points on the LCD cover have cracked so just leave
them in for now.
Push the screen all the way open holding it at the right and left hinges
not to cause any further trauma. If your hinge is to far gone and you
cant move it, you will have to force the hinge with pliers when you remove
it during the next step.
Now try rotating the left hinge asssembly away from the LCD screen
towards the closed position. You may need to use pliers on the hinge to
rotate it because the torque required is significant and is partially the
reason your laptop hinge is broken to begin with. Now that it is in the
almost closed position move the pliers to the outside and work the hinge
out from the connection point on the base of the unit. It may be tight
so keep at it until you pull it free but trying to not break the arm off
the hinge. Remove off the screws and brass inset fasteners and put
into parts container.
Now you need to put a bend on the angle bracket. Use a bench vise
if you have one or clamp a vise grip to the egde of the bracket, with
another large pliers start the bend, With a hammer bang the bend flat.
*This is a critical step! The bend must take shape with the hinge! Dont
over bend or you will weaken the strength. Also make sure you bend
the hinge in the right direction!
As you can see my edge was completely separated on the hinge arm.
I didnt do this but I recommend that you superglue the join on the arm
so it will not move and in its original position so when you go to put it
back together with the LCD screen it sits correctly in the chassis.
Overlay the hinge with your new support bracket. Make marks with
black permanent marker where you need to grind out so it overlays
the hinge correctly that the bracket sits on top of the hinge. You need
to cut the length on the front-face part of the bracket so you dont
cover the 3rd hole on the hinge. (I cut it off at the step point on the
hinge.) Use either the bench vise or the vise grip to hold bracket and
grid it. I cant express enough how important that you shape and grind
the bracket exactly to the shape of the original hinge. I didnt grind
the arm until I was into the next step.
Mix up a small batch of epoxy. (you must mix the 2 parts thouroughly
and work quickly so it dont set or you will not get the proper bonding
strength) Smear a good amount of epoxy onto the hinge at the contact
points and clamp without throwing off the shape of the hinge. Use about
3 to 4 mini clamps. Allow about 10 minutes for the epoxy to set. If you
are the patient type let it sit longer... cant hurt.
Now that the epoxy has set remove the clamps on the arm. If you have
a center punch mark 2-3 points where you will drill for your pop rivots in
the center of the arm. (I used 1/8" aluminum so I only put 2, I would
or rather used smaller and put 3.) Push pop rivots from the outside of the
hinge arm inwards to LCD.
I also added a pop rivot into the front face of the hinge just keep in
mind you dont wont to block the holes for the screws. You will now have
to drill through the back of the hinge out the bracket the small holes for
the original screws to fit. Then bore the front face of the bracket with
a 3/16" bit (unless you have the exact size bit for head to recess
so the screws will reach through) Go SLOW! DONT over drill, you do not
want to go into the hinge at all!
Now grind the bracket so it takes shape with the arm also shearing
down the pop rivots smooth on the LCD side of the arm. Then, although
I didnt do this on mine because I wanted it to have the most strength,
you may want to so the face bezel fits completely closed when you
snap it back on later in step 16. Grind down the top edge of the front
face of the bracket to the top of the hinge.
(First picture in Step 18 shows how mine looks with bezel on.)
Keep your fingers crossed and put your newly repaired hinge in place
to see if it fits correctly. Push the hinge to the fully open position very
carefully so it lines up the top cover holes. If you used 2" brackets and
it lined up the same as mine you should only have to use a razor and cut
out 1 little plastic mount clip from the cover casing. At this point before
cutting I would take out the 2 screws on the right hinge sidearm and
remove the LCD screen put down some paper towels and lay it on the
keyboard. You may have to loosen the bottom right hinge screws to
get the clearance tounscrew side screws. I would put back the top
screw on the right arm into the LCD top and bottom hinge screws to
maintain a true shape before next steps.
Now depending on how bad your mounting holes were damaged,
will effect how you do this step. I had all 3 broken off, so I put
the 3 screws in place and tightened the brass contact points snuggly
to the hinge. Next cut the HP warranty-voiding insulating mylar so
you can access the set points easily. Put a piece of paper or plastic
under the join point, just incase you have overglue. Now mix up the
small batch of epoxy and apply around the set points. This is critical
that you dont over glue because the LCD screen wont fit into chassis.
Now put your hinge back into place, quickly screw the top of arm into
laptop cover. Hold the corner of screen in correct position using the
keboard as a guide so gap is same while the epoxy sets. If your epoxy
is squeezed out into the LCD area use the razor blade and remove the
excess glue before it sets hard.
If epoxy is set hard you may now put back the LCD. First take out
the 2 top screws holding the arms to the cover. Put the 2 left & right
side screws into LCD screen. Make sure all the contact points and
webcam, etc are lined up.
Step 17: Indestructible Repair for the Broken HP DV 9000 Laptop Hinge & Case
Take LCD bezel and flip over. Then cut the 2 clip contact points off
with a razor, smooth to the bezel. If you did grind down the face of
the bracket against the hinge edge, when you snap the face bezel
back it should close back like new or if you didnt you will have a very
unnoticable gap in side, but will be stronger over long term. I dont
know how long this will last I only did this yesterday (4/17/08) but
seems to be working fine.
*UPDATE* As of 4/27/08 and alot of excessive testing the fix is holding up like new.
Step 18: Final Step
Put the 3 top screws and the 2 bottom screws back into LCD
bezel into the laptop casing, then put the 5 rubber sticky pads
back on and you are done. Hope it worked out for you!!! This HP hinge repair can also be seen at http://www.hingefix.com Thanks for looking at my fix!