For a class project we were required to utilize an arduino, a sensor, and a switch. I wanted to make something that involved lights and through my searches of Instructables I came across tons of infinity mirror tutorials. This is my attempt at building a music responsive infinity mirror having no prior arduino knowledge beyond single LED play and some relays.

Step 1: Tools and Materials

LED STRIP:

1 x wire strippers

1 x wire cutters

8-10 x alligator clip jumper cables

1 x Breadboard

1 x Arduino Uno

Arduino Software

1 x 9v battery

2 x 9V Battery Clip with 5.5mm/2.1mm Plug

2 x 10amp switches

1 x 12V 5A power supply

1 x RGB 5050 LED strip 4ft.

1 x Audio Jack

1 x 3.5mm audio cable

1 x speakers

3 x 10k resistors

1 x 220k resistor

1 x 33pf ceramic capacitor

2 x 100nf ceramic capacitor

1 x 10nf ceramic capacitor

1 x MSGEQ7

3 x N-channel MOSFET Transistors

Many x male to male jumper cables

--------------------------------------------------------

INFINITY MIRROR:

1 x box cutter

black paint

1 x hot glue gun

1 x 12"X12" box/shadowbox frame

1 x 12"X12" plain edged mirror

1 x 12"X12" two-way mirror

If using box instead of frame:

2 x wood or metal pieces 12"X X.25"

2 x wood or metal pieces 12.75"X.25"

12 x 1" wooden cubes

1 x chipboard or any frame backing 12"x12"

Step 2: Setting Up the Infinity Mirror

If you purchase a shadowbox frame, it should come with a spacer between the glass and backing. If you can find one with multiple levels that is fairly large you should be able to fit the arduino and your breadboard inside. There are quite a few tutorials on creating an infinity mirror.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-controlled...

https://www.instructables.com/id/Infinity-mirror-an...

I took a 12"X12" box that actually measured out to 12.75"X12.75" and found some chipboard frame backing in the same 12"X12" size at Hobby Lobby. I ordered the two way mirror from TAP Plastics and it did show up quite rough so I would recommend trying someone else. The plain mirror cam from lowes in a six pack. Michaels had the wood pieces I used here to make a snug fit inside of the box and to create levels for the arduino to be hidden under.

I cut out a hole in the bottom and in the lid of the box to be slightly smaller than 12"X12" and glued the two-way mirror around the edges onto the lid of the box with the film facing inside. I glued the chipboard to the bottom of the box for secure hanging.

I then painted all of the wooden pieces black along with the inside of the box. The wooden pieces were positioned so that one corner had extra spacing for the wires of the LED strip(pictured). After gluing these in, each corner of the box needs two 1"cubes painted black to support the plain mirror. I had also purchased a shadowbox frame and took one of the .25" inserts out and placed one on top of the squares to decrease the space between the mirror and LEDs. The plain mirror should fit snuggly into the space.

Step 3: Setting Up the Breadboard

I originally had this working on the breadboard but due to a lack of parts I had to take it apart when it was time to begin soldering. My finished circuit board would not function properly, only dimly lighting up but not pulsing or color change. After I set it up on the breadboard again with all new parts the same problem occurred. We found that my capacitor setup was backwards but still not the proper function. The light is full power white and is more of a strobe. If you play with the 33pf capacitor, by holding one end of it, the project lights up properly. On the arduino website forums I found others having this issue as well but I am still debugging.

I used this instructable:

https://www.instructables.com/id/Blinking-LEDs-to-t...

Step 4: Programming the Arduino

This is the original instructables code written by David Wang. The code never seemed to have any issues, those remain within my setup.

MusicEqualizerNEW.ino
Download

Step 5: Putting Everything Together

I included my schematic I worked with when I attempted to solder everything in case you would like to take a look. Other wise I taped things down to prevent them from moving around and breaking connections with the breadboard. The opening between the pieces of wood should be just big enough to slide the wires through and begin to attach everything to the swtiches. I added a switch into the battery circuit as well as the main power so that it could be turned off from the outside. Place the mirror inside, line the mirror with the lights and replace the lid on top!