I know, there are already a couple hundred
different styles of alcohol stove instructables. To be honest, there is nothing here that is not already mentioned in at least a couple other examples. I certainly do not claim any new ideas or techniques - this is merely my interpretation. The tools I used are simple... Drill Hack saw 1/2 inch drum sanding bit (tighten it inside the throat of the bottle). I suspect a bottle stopper that has a hole in the middle would work as well, but don't have one of them handy. Hammer, chunk of 2x4 gloves. The materials... 16 ounce beer can. This started life as a Budweiser. I suspect any sturdy aluminum can will work - I have used other brands in the past, although they may have all been from Anheiser Busch. The manufacturing technique is to spin the aluminum can with the drill, and hold the hack saw stable. I tried to cut the can with the saw in a traditional way, but can never cut it straight. By spinning the bottle it is fairly easy to hold the saw at the still against the can and let the spinning can work its way through the blade. A quick shot of oil on the can makes the cutting much easier. Now off to work.
Step 1: Spin the Bottle
With the drum sander bit chucked in the
mouth of the can, I found that it was easier to have an accomplice (in this case my son) run the drill. I lubed the can, held the hack saw while he operated the drill. Made 3 cuts in the can.
First cut off the bottom -
My interpretation is about 3 inches - so cut the bottom at about 3 inches.
Second cut was at the top of the cylinder. In order to have vent holes need to make the second cut so you have about 1/2 inch of the cylindar.
Third cut is on the neck. This cut needs to be long enough to fit inside the base, but not be proud of the base. My base is about 1/8 inch, so I made this cut so the neck piece was 2 7/8 inches.
The second picture shows what the can looks like when the pieces are put back together.
Step 2: Add Some Fuel Slots
This is pretty simple. Need to file a couple grooves into the shoulder
piece to allow the fuel to move from the fill channel into the burn chamber. (ie File a small groove into the narrow part of the shoulder piece)
Step 3: Marry the Pieces Together
Not trying to redefine any definitions of marriage... Just a term I use for joining the base and shoulder...
Invert the shoulder piece and insert into the base. Need to press the shoulder into the base. I used a high tech press - a chunk of 2x4 and some pressure.
Need to push the shoulder piece all the way to the bottom. This one the shoulder piece needed a bit of help making the bottom - A spare 2 1/2 PVC cap gives some extra encouragement.
Step 4: Fuel Holes
Havent seen many stoves where the fuel burn is internal. I do this in an attempt to make the stove a bit more resistant to wind.
My bit of choice is a small nail - I don't have an actual drill bit small enough to make these holes. I generally go with 8 fuel holes.
Step 5: Add the Vents
With the burn holes internal, need to make some room for air to get to the mix and for the flames to burn.
I drilled 5 pilot holes in half of the can - then went back with a 5/16 bit and drilled straight through both sides. This left the stove with 10 holes - each 5/16 diameter. It worked for me - no reason you can't do the same.
Step 6: Does It Work?
Does it work?
Add about 1/2 ounce of fuel... I used Heet fuel line antifreeze. Pour it into the stove and light with a lighter. In about 20 seconds the fuel should be boiling.
Once the fuel is boiling it should be safe to add your cook pot. The cookpot shown is obviously a can of Fosters with the top removed.
In my garage I was able to bring 2 cups of water to boil in a couple minutes.
The pictures of the burning stove didn't turn out that well because the flame is very difficult to see - I had to wait until evening and turn off the lights. During the day you cannot see the fuel burning.
Thanks for viewing my instructable, hope you picked up some ideas to try things yourself....
Now back to the fridge... I think another stove is calling.