Wall mounted helmet hanger with a sense of humor

Born out of necessity, I needed to free up closet space mostly occupied by my 3 helmets, bulky motorcycle jackets (1 winter, 1 all-seasons, 1 summer) and many pairs of gloves (1 for winter, 1 all-seasons, 1 summer). Since I loved all my gear, I decided to display them instead of keeping them locked up in a closet. Since I ride every season, quite frequently needed to hang my gloves to dry (rain or sweat). Short story short, I decided to go with a trophy head look, and gloves were the perfect antlers to emphasize that image. Below you'll find the documents and details of this project. I chose laser cut steel due to its weight/strength ratio and since I wanted it to disappear when used (kind of my MO) I preferred mirror-gloss steel sheet. Well, also at the time, I had access to a workshop with a laser cutter and all fit into place.

Step 1: Design

The attached file (fits on A2 paper size) is suitable for most helmets and sizes. But if you need to modify or build your own proportions, I recommend you to start with the essentials like I did: Get rebars if you have a welder or use wood to put together a frame to find out the angles of the support arms. IF you have access to a 3D scanner or can pull off good quality models with photogrammetry (remember, inside of a helmet may be tricky to capture well) I'd say try the design on the computer but keep in mind, you need to find the balance point of the helmet from the inside. Once you have angles of each protrusion, you can modify the design according to those proportions. I unrolled the 3d model once I've confirmed all edges meet.

Step 2: Laser Cut

I chose 1mm (19 gauge) and worked out fine. Folded arm can carry a lot of load and the glove arms stable enough since gloves are not heavy and heavier ones are quite rigid and stand on its own when placed on the arm. If you want the mirror polished look, I'd recommend cutting from a chromed or stainless steel sheet with a protective film on it. You can peel it off after all bending is done, right before you hang it on your wall. If laser cutter makes splinters, you'll need to sand the edges lightly so it doesn't damage your gear.

You may use galvanized or even cheaper sheets of metal and either coat it (Plasti-dip would give soft nice plastic feel) or you may offset the drawing outwards by 2mm's and cut that shape from 4-5mm thick industrial felt in any color you'd like. Making it slightly larger will also help soften the helmet-carrying edges. I used without any padding for a long time and never had any problems.

Step 3: Bend

All necessary bending lines are perforated and since the main body has to close to a perfect triangle cross-section, you can not go wrong. Bend with a plane, 2 pieces of wood would make it easy to fold. Start from the center fold line. Don't try to fold it into shape at once, close it to approx. 70 degrees and fold the smaller flaps to meet each other. You can bend without support, only by hand but it may get uneven, so I recommend using planes. Once you have it folded into shape let it have a little tension to open up. That will help it fit tighter onto your wall screws.

Step 4: Mount It on Your Wall

You need only 2 screws with heads small enough to go in the large section of the keyholes and large enough to not go through the small section of the keyhole. Test the location by holding Kaskas on the wall, put a little mark and put screws 60 millimeters (2-3/8 inches) apart, on a horizontal line (use a water level if necessary but no need to be super precise). Use anchors if necessary. Leave it 2-3 millimeters off the wall, don't screw it all the way in.

Now is the good time to peel off the protection on the steel.

Squeeze Kaskas slightly (if necessary) while hanging on the wall, push it down so screws reach the top of the keyholes.

Feel free to bend the glove arms to your preferred angle. It is easier if you try it with gloves first. Bend it evenly.