K'nex Magpul PDR Instructions

About: Hey there. I won't add too much info here, as it'll show up as one big paragraph. I'm not super active anymore, on here.

Hey there,

So nearly four years ago, I remade my even older Magpul PDR, to better reflect the real life one's size.
I meant to post the instructions sooner, but I was busy.
Anyway, I hope these instructions are clear, and you can soon have your own PDR replica.

The slideshow of the remade PDR can be found here.

- The Dunkis: the foregrip comes from his PDR
- The Red Book of Westmarch: the 'bridge' between the handle and stock.

A couple of less common parts include:
- Two flexible blue-length rods;
- Two flexible yellow-length rod;
- A few y-clips;
- A couple of small blue clips;
- Two full hinges;
- A few broken white rods, with the ends cut off.

Now lets get building, shall we?.

Step 1: The Stock

This holds the magazine. Please read the image notes below.
You can use normal blue rods, if you don't have the flexible ones. Just be aware that these will strain your parts.

Photo 1: Finished stock;
Photo 2: Build the first outer layer. Take note of the positions of the blue and white rods sticking out;
Photo 3: A close up of the white rods;
Photo 4: Grab these;
Photo 5: And add them;
Photo 6: Build these;
Photo 7: And attach them. The white rod on the green connector goes in the hole of the orange connector;
Photo 8: Build this;
Photo 9: And attach it;
Photo 10: Build these. Please use a normal yellow conntector, instead of breaking one;
Photo 11: And attach them;
Photo 12: Build these. If you want to spare a white rod, place a normal one in the slot. You'll just need to add a rubberband to the magazine release;
Photo 13: And attach them;
Photo 14: Build these;
Photo 15: And attach them;
Photo 16: Build / grab these. You can use a normal red connector;
Photo 17: Attach these parts;
Photo 18: Add the other outer part;
Photo 19: And attach the white rod with red connector. Take note of how the red connector is attached;
Photo 20: Add it to the rest of the stock;
Photo 21: Build the other outer layer;
Photo 22: Finish the stock by adding it;
Photo 23: Make sure the pins of the tan connectors are inside the little holes on both sides.

Step 2: Front End

The part of the gun that houses the main mechanism.

Photo 1: Finished front;
Photo 2: Build this. Again, take note of the position of the blue rods;
Photo 3: Grab / build these;
Photo 4: Put the internal parts on the outer layer;
Photo 5: Put the other outer layer on;
Photo 6: Attach the red connector;
Photo 7: Grab what you just made, and the other parts. I'm afraid the trigger needs the broken rods;
Photo 8: Attach the first part;
Photo 9: Add the top bump and trigger. I actually made a small mistake here. Rotate on grey connector on the trigger by 90 degrees. See the intro pictures for what I mean;
Photo 10: Grab two blue spacers
Photo 11: And add them
Photo 12: Add the other row of orange connectors;
Photo 13: Grab / build these;
Photo 14: Attach the first parts;
Photo 15: Add the second layer of parts;
Photo 16: Pay attention to this;
Photo 17: Build these. If you don't have enough black wheels, you can make the barrel shorter. It's just for the looks;
Photo 18: Attach them;
Photo 19: Add the last layer of parts;
Photo 20: Build this;
Photo 21: Attach it here;
Photo 22: Grab / build these:
Photo 23: Attach the internal parts. Don't worry, the green rod won't fall out once the handle is attached to the gun;
Photo 24: Add the outer plate;
Photo 25: Add some black wheels for comfort. You can substitute these with orange connector + y clip on both sides;
Photo 26: Attach the handle to the gun;
Photo 27: Please make sure the trigger looks like this. Otherwise, your gun won't be able to shoot;
Photo 28: Attach the yellow connector, and hook up the rubberband;
Photo 29: Attach the other yellow connector;
Photo 30: Make the charging handle;
Photo 31: And insert it like this;
Photo 32: Make the other outer layer;
Photo 33: And attach it to the rest.

Step 3: Putting the Gun Together

Almost there...

Photo 1: Grab the two parts;
Photo 2: Detach the rods at the end. Makes it easier to assemble;
Photo 3: Attach the 'bridge' parts, and slide the orange connector in;
Photo 4: Attach the rods again.

Step 4: The Magazine

You can make this any size you want.
It's the standard STANAG K'nex magazine, so credit goes to the original creator.
You can spare a broken white rod, by using a green rod and a bit of tape.
The magazine doesn't fall out when you use the magazine release, you need to take it out yourself, so "performance" stays the same.

Photo 1: Build these;
Photo 2: Attach the inner part;
Photo 3: Finish it by adding the second outer layer.

Step 5: Finishing Up

Photo 1: Grab some rubberbands;
Photo 2: One band for the charging handle. Hook it up on the other side of the gun, going around the barrel like this;
Photo 3: For shooting, hook a band on the y connector;
Photo 4: And on the front, hook it up like this;
Photo 5: Aim, and pull the trigger.

Step 6: Conclusion

So, you have finished your own Magpul PDR replica!
I hope you have fun with it.
If something doesn't work, or you have other questions, don't be afraid to mention them in the comments.



    • Stone Concrete and Cement Contest

      Stone Concrete and Cement Contest
    • Classroom Science Contest

      Classroom Science Contest
    • Paint Challenge

      Paint Challenge

    21 Discussions


    21 days ago

    my favorite out of the group is Nikolai (forgot the groups name)

    dr. richtofendynamite_kid

    Reply 1 year ago

    A barrel. Not on this gun though:

    This one only shoots rubberbands, so they come out from wherever you hook them up at the front end.


    2 years ago

    i chalenge you tou make a styre tmp rubber band gun, if you do i will build it and favorite and vote for you in contests! Deal?


    2 years ago

    Time to get back into the swing of things.



    Yeah, the front barrels isn't really necessary, it's mostly there for looks. You can make it shorter, or leave it out altogether.


    It's a rubbeband gun, so the range isn't something to write home about. Depending on the bands you use, it can reach 30 feet or so. Nothing spectacular, but enough for some indoor fun.


    2 years ago

    hey! I'm so glad to be back on instructables for today!

    An Villain

    2 years ago

    Nice job, always liked that design!

    It's good to see another familiar face around here as well.

    1 reply
    dr. richtofenAn Villain

    Reply 2 years ago

    Other stuff has the priority these days, but I try to pop in every now and then, and post some things.


    2 years ago

    eerste comment. Ik heb hier zo lang op zitten wachten. kan hem helaas vanavond pas bouwen, omdat ik veel te doen heb vandaag. maar morgen is ie sowieso klaar

    3 replies
    dr. richtofenMonkeyKnexer15

    Reply 2 years ago

    Sorry voor het lang moeten wachten, werk en studie hadden de voorrang.
    Anyway, 'k hoop dat je hem leuk vindt.

    MonkeyKnexer15dr. richtofen

    Reply 2 years ago

    Ik heb m al af. Even een vraagje, kan ik de drum mag die je een paar jaar geleden hebt geupload ook gebruiken??

    dr. richtofenMonkeyKnexer15

    Reply 2 years ago

    Misschien dat je de bovenkant van dat magazijn wat langer moet maken om het te laten passen. Maar de drum mag is gebaseerd op de STANAG magazijnen, dus verder zouden er geen problemen moeten zijn.

    Cheers. The community has seen better days, but eh. There're some cool things posted every now and then.


    2 years ago

    Noice. Yours is probably my favorite. I ended up getting an airsoft version of the PDR-C because I liked it so much, so someday I might use yours as a basis for my own.