LED Acrylic Glass Sign




About: Innovative Projects, Diy's, Life Hacks

In this Instructable, I made a LED acrylic sign.

You will need:

For the Sign:

  • Acrylic glass

I used a 100 X 80 X 5 mm sheet

  • Mini drill with diamond burr bits.
  • Stencil knife
  • Picture/print out for the stencil

For the base:

Instamorph moldable plastic

2 LED's with a battery holder, batteries and a switch

Step 1: For the Base

I melted the Instamorph and coloured it blue.

I used "no-brand" pigment.

Step 2: For the Base

I used a wooden box as a mould.

Instamorph should not be too hot or else it will stick to the box.

When I removed it from the mould, I reheated the bottom to cut it off.

Step 3: For the Base

To make sure batteries hold in place, I added more Instamorph.

Step 4: For the Base

More Instamorph was added on top to hold acrylic glass.

Step 5: For the Base

I drilled holes for LED's and the switch.

I soldered LED's and a switch to the battery holder.

Then I glued the switch to the case and inserted LED's.

Step 6: For the Base

I covered bottom of LED's with electrical tape and inserted the batteries.

Step 7: The LED Sign

I cut out the stencil and secured it to acrylic with the scotch tape.

Step 8: The LED Sign

Then I used diamond burr bits to colour the stencil.

Now you can put your art on top of the base and watch it shine.

If you get bored, change it.



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    7 Discussions

    Chris Weatherford

    3 years ago

    Great ible. I love your base.....I purchased this moldable plastic a couple weeks ago and haven't made anything yet but might have to after seeing this one. Nice job hand scribing the logo. That turned out great. I just did a simular project and used a dremel. Thanks for sharing.



    4 years ago

    NOT A PRO TIP: you can get multicoler lights with a controler from amazon and if I make one of these I'm gonna use that


    A great looking project, especially in the dark.

    Some tips for those who may want to build:

    A defunct monitor may provide a useful hunk of acrylic as well as Mylar for the stencil, which is used as a diffuser.

    Flame polishing the acrylic edges will give a nice finish to raw saw-cut edges after sanding or scraping, as well as transmitting the light in a more even fashion. Make the surfaces as smooth as possible and practice on scrap first, there is a small learning curve but once mastered, it will be with you forever. I use a simple propane torch for my work.

    2 replies