LED Longboard! LED Skateboard Version 4!




About: My name is Taylor, I am an electrical repair tech by day and an engineer by night, after work or free time.

I know I have said I was done with led skateboards because I want to move on but I had to improve my longboard before I put everything to rest! I use my LED longboard more than my other LED skateboards simply because I am less likely to do any tricks on it and damage the componets, my previous board being a perfect example. This is the same longboard as found in this one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kAZj_Zz4ro. I have had no problems with that one so why the change? I simply wanted more of a selection of modes and I was getting sick of seeing the altoid tins. While they serve as a great housing for circuits they are not weather proof. Mine got all rusty and started to become weak. If you are interested in this then I will show you how to make one! Watch the video in the next step! I explain a few things and show a full demo!

Step 1: Watch the Video!

I was inspired by someones comment to me to improve mine.

Step 2: What Is Needed

8 led segments from an led strip. You can use more if you would like!
A RGB led controller
Decent amount of wire. I used an old usb cable. It was long and had four wires which worked out great!
A longboard of course
Super glue
soldering iron, wire cutters/strippers and more tools!
12 volt regulator
two 10uf capacitors
on/off switch SPST
two 9 volt battery snaps
and a decent housing

All of the componets can be found on this awesome websitehttp://www.taydaelectronics.com/

Here is the led strip. It is 1M. more than enough! http://www.taydaelectronics.com/leds/led-strip/1m-5050-60-led-rgb-flexible-waterproof-light-strip.html

nd here is the controller you will need http://www.taydaelectronics.com/leds/led-strip/24-keys-ir-remote-controller-for-rgb-led-strip.html

 have linked the two main items, everything else is up to you to find but it is all on that website!

Step 3: Making the Power Supply

The RGB leds and remote both require 12 volts to function. Now you can use 9 volts (one 9volt battery) but it will be slightly dimmer. I decided to use the full reguired voltage which can be easily done by making a small and simple voltage regulator circuit. It will be powered by two 9 volt batteries in series (18volts). Now if you want to go one step above you can add two more in parallel to increase the life time! 

For the power circuit you will need the 12volt regulator, two 9 volt battery snaps, one switch, two 10uf caps, and a PCB. 

Follow the schematic. It is a real easy circuit. 

in order to get the two 9 volt batteries to produce 18 volts we need to take the positive wire from one battery snap and solder it to the negative wire of the other battery snap. Series. 

Step 4: Connecting the Power Supply to the Remote Circuit

The remote control circuit board has a 12 volt tunnel plug. which if not on hand it will be hard to add the power supply via the plug. So we have to take it apart and solder the 12 volt regulator output to the positive and the 12volt negative to the negative. The connections on the board are easy to find. The ground (-) usually has two connections from the plug. one more than likely has no solder.

Step 5: Moving to the Board

Now it is time to move everything to the board. But first we need to expose the copper connections underneath the rubber in order to connect each segment to eachother. Simply cut it carefully with a utility knife and remove the rubber. After that is complete, mount the segments around the board, be sure to mount them going in the same direction! After everything is mounted I would recommend using some super glue to ensure security! 

Time for the daunting task. We have to connect all the segments together. I used a long USB cord to do so. This has to be the most time consuming part because we have to strip and tin and solder 4 long wires for each segment. 

It appears I forgot to take a picture of the wires connecting the segments. I am sorry for this. But it is an easy step. If you need assistance feel free to ask.

Step 6: The Enclosure and Infared Sensor

We need to mount the infared sensor so that we can remotely access it while riding. I ended up drilling a hole through the front of my longboard to mount the sensor as close as I can to the top. I didn't mount it all the way  through because I could accidentaly hit it so I mounted it just a little bit under the surface. If you decide to mount it in the same location you will need to make sure your risers are going to assist at all. My risers have two circular holes which is perfect for making some extra room if needed! you will need to mount your enclosure near the infared sensor, provided you didn't extend its wires. I used this plasitc strong box with a nice locking system. I was going to use a radioshack project box but I had this on hand :) It is a little bigger than it needs to be but it works. I had to use an altoid tin on the inside to keep the batteries from moving around when riding. once the infared sensor is mounted and so is the enclosure move in the circuit and hot glue everything down and connect the leds to the remote and you are finished! I know this was a little fast paced but if you need any assistance feel free to ask! I hope you liked this build and thank you for viewing! 



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    8 Discussions


    4 years ago on Introduction

    I just finished making a similar set up with the power supply you have shown. I havent hotglued the circuit board yet. But while testing the lights out with two 9v batteries in series, I noticed that the 12v regulator seemed to get pretty warm rather quickly. Is this normal?

    2 replies

    Reply 4 years ago

    Yes it is normal. Linear regulators dissipate unused voltage in heat. If it is warm and not insanely hot it should be just fine. I would suggest adding a heat sink for added peace of mind. If you're using really good batteries like duracel, that could also be the reason why it's getting warm but like I said it should operate just fine. Check out my recent led skateboard build I made for Andy Schrock! I used a better power supply. Here's the link. Also if yoh have any more questions feel free to ask :) http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek8ZP3f985Y


    Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

    OK, Thanks. I rode it around a while and it never got too hot, just rather warm. And I did use Duracells. My next version will incorporate a lithium ion battery like you used on that video. I found a battery on ebay. Where did you get your 12v booster and charge cont.?


    4 years ago on Introduction

    So let's say if I wanted to use AA's instead of 9v batteries, could I use an 8 AA system (12v) and just skip the 12v regulator overall?

    1 reply

    Reply 4 years ago

    Absolutely but after a few hours of use the voltage will slowly decline thus the leds will get dimmer. Voltage drop will impact that set up. I recently made a better one using a lithium ion battery circuit. I personally would suggest something around that area for best results.


    5 years ago on Introduction

    do i have to take the circuit board out of the powersupply or if i have the charger can i leave it in? and on the LED strips of 8 do i strip the glue on top of just at the copper ends?

    1 reply

    Reply 5 years ago

    steo4 shows the charge regulator being connected to the rgb remote receiver board. the output of the regulator is connected to the positive input on the receiver. then its grounded to the center pin of the regulator. the schematic is available in a previous step. you don't have to take the circuit board out but I did to have solid connections. and only strip the clear rubber off the copper connections


    5 years ago on Introduction

    in step 4 what is the second circuit board which looks like it has glue all over it and the capicators connected to it?