There are plenty of laptop screen replacement instructables here, but I did not find one specific to the HP DV6000 series. It's possibly overkill, but if this helps one user, it's worth it. I was quite surprised to discover how easily it was accomplished and with very few tools.
It might be a good idea to remove the battery and press the power button to discharge any stored power from the system. There's little risk of electrostatic damage in this repair, but if you're prone to generating sparks in your environment, take suitable precautions.
Since the removed screws are quite small, consider to have a piece of stiff paper stock or light cardboard stock nearby, to serve as a keeper. The advantage of paper or cardstock is that you can pop tiny holes into the cardboard in the same placement as the original screw locations, to make it all the easier to put it back together without missing anything. I also write notes on the card, if there's a possibility of error.
This replacement turned out to be easier than replacing a mainboard in a laptop, so the notes aspect wasn't really necessary. If you are interrupted in the replacement process and can't return for an extended period, the notes and card stock would be more useful.
Step 1: Screwy
Remove the screws holding the plastic frame (bezel) together.
Begin by prying off with a small screwdriver or similar tool the rubber bumpers that also serve as cosmetic screw covers. Place each screw in the appropriate relative location in the cardboard organizer. The last image showing the button removed and the screw head is out of focus because the camera is having a very difficult time with the reflective surfaces.
Step 2: Pop Goes the Bezel
Now that all six screws are removed, gently push a fingernail into the crack holding the two shells together. It came apart more easily at the top. Working down the sides a bit at a time, the remaining clips are between the two hinge points. They seemed very well secured, but a bit more pressure caused a proper release with no damage. Models other than the DV6000 series might have more screws, so use caution to ensure all is ready for release.
This shot also shows another "invisible" crack in the screen.
Step 3: Drop the Frame
Not visible in the first photo is the retaining screw for the power feed to the screen. The left end of this bar-coded item at the bottom of the photo is attached under the screen with a single screw. Remove this screw and place it in the keeper. Remove both screws from the left and right side of the screen frame. They may be of different lengths (I didn't check) so place them in appropriate locations on the cardboard keeper. When the screws are removed, the back panel of the bezel (the top of the computer when closed) should drop away to the rear, leaving the screen supported by a thin metal frame.
The "empty" screw hole is where the bezel screw secures in the final steps.
I screwed up and didn't take a good photo of the power connector in position.
Step 4: Screen Play
Four screws hold the glass panel to the support frame, two on either side. I started at the bottom, removing the screws and placing them in the keeper, then did the same with the remaning top screws. Doing it in this manner made for a more stable screen for the longest amount of time.
Once the screws are removed, tilt the panel forward to rest flat on the keyboard. Removal and attachment of the cables are next.
Step 5: Swapping
A piece of clearly visible tape holds the ribbon cable in place on the old panel and a piece of "invisible" tape holds the connector in the socket. The legend near the connector states "locking connector" but they still used a piece of tape to keep it there. Carefully pull both pieces free of the panel as well as the power connector previously noted. Exercise great care when releasing the locking connector, as it is easy to damage the ribbon cable. Note also that the ribbon cable passes over the transparent plastic guard and then under it, to engage the connector. Once the old panel is disconnected, slide the new one into position and re-attach the connectors and tape pieces.
The old panel had a flange with a pair of screw holes that attached nowhere. The flange was removable, but did not fit on the new panel. Since there appeared to be no value to the flange, it was omitted from the installation. I suspect the flange was to permit use of the panel in other models.
Reverse the previous steps to re-assemble the panel and you're all set. If you're unsure about operational status, power up the unit before you close up the bezel.