Introduction: Leather Flask Holder
I bought a bunch of liquor sample bottles a while back, most were plastic, but a few were glass. One of them had a nice shape, so I keep it in my bag. I made this holder so it doesn't rattle around in my bag. The sample bottle I used was a Wild Turkey 375ml bottle, I bought the 101, but you can get which ever as long as the glass is the appropriate shape.
- Wild Turkey 375ml
- 2mm Veg tan Leather sheet
- Black oil based dye
- Sealer (Acrylic resolene or similar)
- Thick nylon/polyester thread (Ideally >0.8mm, but thicker than standard fabric thread will do)
- 3 rivits
- 1 pair press studs
Bees wax, Edge Burnisher
- 2mm hole punch
- 2mmx4 pricking fork diamond (or 4mmx4prong pricking fork)
- Edge Beveller
- Edge Burnisher
- Epoxy resin
- Wing divider
- Dauber or cotton ball/pad
- 800p sandpaper (but about any grit sandpaper will do)
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Step 1: Cleaning Glass
After finishing the contents of the glass remove the lid and place into a saucepan and cover with water, then boil. Covering the glass then boiling rather than just dropping the glass into boiling water will prevent the glass from cracking. After boiling for about 5 minutes the label can be scraped off with a butter knife or spoon. Remember to uncap the bottle before boiling or else the gases will expand and the bottle can potentially explode.
Step 2: Patterns
In microsoft word, or similar program, draw a rectangle and follow the prompts outlined in the images to produce a scaled pattern. Measure the scale bar after printing to double check the scale.
Step 3: Skiving & Bevelling Leather
On the flesh side of the leather thin with a skiver till it is pliable, if the you don't have a skiver or need to thin the leather a little bit more you can finish it with 800p sandpaper.
Leather edges that have been skived do not need to be bevelled. I only bevelled the edge of the strap.
Step 4: Shaping Leather
To shape the strap simply submerge in lukewarm water for 10-15 and drape over the glass flask to dry. At this point you want to check for proper alignment, if it dries crooked simply submerge and dry again. Make sure it can open over the lid.
Step 5: Dyeing & Sealing Leather
Dye the leather in a well ventilated area away from open flames as the dye pigments are suspended in alcohols. Leather dye will stain skin and clothes, it is advisable to wear gloves and old clothes. Remember to dye front, back and edges, avoid dyeing the skived area of the leather as it will make it less flexible. Leave to dry for 2-3 hours after the Leather has dried buff with an old cloth to remove excess dye.
Apply sealant to leather and rub in with an old cloth, apply to the flesh side of the leather but rub in one direction to align all the the loose fibres. Avoid coating the skived areas on the flesh side as it will reduce flexibility and increase chance of cracking.
Step 6: Burnishing Edges
Apply a light coating of sealant or bees wax to the edge and rub edge slicker over, you are essentially sealing the edges in by heating them while compressing them, the sealant and bees wax gives friction and helps seal the leather. Rub until the edges are smooth.
Step 7: Riviting
Mark the rivet and press stud holes on the strap and punch the holes, mark on the base where the strap will connect to the base.
Step 8: Stitching
Before stitching glue down edges with epoxy resin use the diamond pricking fork to punch the desired stitching holes. With this step you'll be juggling stitching and gluing edges. After applying epoxy resin do not immediately press together, allow them to air and get tacky before pressing together to allow for a stronger adhesion.
I followed the tandy stitching method, the video has both single and double needle stitching.
Step 9: Final Mentions
Usually I take the flash out of the cover before filling. You can pretty much put any liquids in the glass, it doesn't have to be alcohol.