I tried to make this quiver versatile for use in different environments. The top angle is meant to shed rain and natural forest debris as well as to protect the fletchings from general wear and tear. Since having the arrows totally covered is not as convenient when actually shooting, I decided to design for the top to be folded down for easier access when shooting. On a similar train of thought, I like to carrying a back quiver, but shooting from a belt quiver. So, I made sure to make straps that allow the quiver to be switched from one type of carry to the other quickly and easily. The bag part of this 'ible starts at step 8, if you want skip ahead, or you can see my original posts of this at Leather Quiver and Belt Bag.
Step 1: Plan and Pattern
My arrows are around 28 inches, so I made the apex of the top 30 inches to completely cover the arrows. The circumference of the bottom is about 10 inches. This results in a quiver that is large enough, without being too big. So, when considering dimensions, be sure to measure your arrows for height, and adjust the pattern accordingly.
The bottom edge is 10 inches across and the top is 14 inches across at the widest point before it begins to taper. The side will only be sewn closed up from the bottom to the widest point, for my arrows this was 25 inches. The top triangle is about five inches tall, bringing the total height to 30 inches, two inches longer than my arrows so that the fletchings are completely cover in the end (see pictures of finished quiver for visual clarification). To make the quiver longer or shorter for different sized arrows than mine, shorten or lengthen the overall height of the pattern. To make a narrower or wider quiver, decrease the bottom edge and the widest point of the quiver (each by the same amount to maintain the angle). The scallops on the edge of the triangle are merely decorative, and were free-handed on after the main pattern was drawn.
Step 2: Cutting
Sketch out a cutting pattern on some big paper or newspaper or measure it out and draw directly on the leather (be careful not to make any permanent marks on the leather that you may regret later).
The leather I used is oil tanned cow hide, which has a really nice color and texture, but whatever leather you fancy will work just fine as long as it's not extremely thin.
Step 3: Appliqued Decorations
For decoration I decided to applique a pattern on the outer surface. It is in no way functional, but I think it looks cool and adds some dimensionality. I cut out the decorative applique from the scraps around the edges. Because this is a repetitive pattern, I made a pattern for each of the five types pieces with the stitches marked so that they would all look the same. After laying out the pattern on the main quiver piece, I lightly marked where each piece went and labeled each place and piece with a corresponding letter to ensure that each piece ended up where it was meant to be. Each piece was then saddle stitched down. (Saddle stitch involves having two needles, one at each end of the thread, and passing each one through each hole in opposite directions.If you are at a loss on saddle stitching, youtube has many excellent saddle stitching how-to videos.)
The only structurally important part of this step is the D-rings. These are attached at about six inches below the top and at the bottom.
Step 4: Lacing Up the Side
To close the sides, punch a matching line of holes along each edge and then lace the side up, tying the lace off at the top on the inside. My holes were punched at one inch intervals, which worked out very well.
Step 5: Bottom
The bottom is a slightly squared oval. To make the fitting process easier, make a paper model first, and then trim it down until it matches the bottom of the quiver. This saves time and energy in trying to measure out a perfectly sized oval on paper. Cut a leather version of the bottom pattern when it is the correct size and shape. The edge is once again held together with a saddle stitch. The sure up the side closure, I made sure to catch the end of the side lace in the seam at the bottom, but this isn't particularly important.
Step 6: Straps and Buckles
The straps are one inch wide with a buckle to allow the length to be adjusted and clips on the ends to allow the strap to be remove easily. The clips strap attachments are a quarter inch narrower than strap, so the strap is tapered in at the attachment points to accommodate this (see pictures). The smaller clip allows the eye to move smoothly from strap to clip, if you use inch clips with one inch straps, they may look big and bulky.
A small loop, about 6 inches around, is attached to the top clip of the shoulder strap. This is used to suspend the quiver from a belt (or the quiver can be worn at the belt by the shoulder strap, but I find that it tends to flap around if worn this way).
Step 7: Folding Down the Top
To make the quiver shorter for shooting ease, the top shoulder strap clip is un-clipped, the top is folded down. The D-ring to which the shoulder strap clips is passed through a slit in the quiver top, and finally the clip is re-clipped creating a whole different style. Either style can be carried at the back or the belt. The first time you do this you will have to cut the slit. You can measure it out or just free hand it like I did. Just be sure to cut carefully because you can't un-cut leather. Please see the pictures if this is confusing.
Step 8: Bag - Intro
This lovely little bag functions as either a belt bag or as a quiver bag. It was made to be a quiver bag for the most part, but I have found myself wearing it as a trendy little purse alternative instead. At about six by six inches, it is perfect for a cell phone and wallet.
Step 9: The Pieces
It began as six pieces. The front, the back (identical to the back), the closure flap (identical to the front and back except slightly shorter), the belt loops, and the sides and bottom strip. The front and back are 6 by 6 inch squares with the bottom two corners rounded, and the closure flap is the same, only slightly shorter. The belt loops are 3 by 1.5 inch rectangles. The long strip that forms the bottom and sides of the bag is about 2 inches wide and long enough to span the bottom and sides. I cut it a little long and then trimmed it down at the end because it saves time and trouble measuring here at the beginning.
Step 10: Belt Loops
Begin by sewing the bottom edge of the belt loops to the top of the back panel (saddle stitch as usual).
Step 11: Forming the Bag
Next, attach the closure flap to the back panel. The belt loop tops are sewn into the same seam as the closure flap.
The front and back panels are sewn to the sides and bottom strip inside out using a saddle stitch. Then, turn the bag right side out to hide the seam and create a more rounded look.
Step 12: Finishing the Bag
A button loop and antler button (or any kind of button) finish off the bag. To make the loop, cut a thin piece of leather. Punch two holes in the center edge of the closure flap and thread the narrow piece of leather through. Tie or stitch the narrow piece of leather together on the inside of the flap. This is now a button loop. Sew a button on the lower front as you would sew on a button normally.
Step 13: Attaching the Bag to the Quiver
The bag can now be worn at the belt or it can be attached to the quiver by a small strap. The strap is narrow enough to fit under the side lace of the quiver to hold it securely in place. I considered using a small buckle on the strap, but I decided to go low tech. As an adjustable buckle alternative, I punched holes along the strap and then used a piece of lace to tie through the holes, holding the strap at the proper length (see pictures for clarification).
Step 14: Choose a Style...
Choose your style and enjoy wearing...
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