Lego Raspberry Pi Case (for a & B Model)




About: Ible me this, ible me that !

Before getting my Raspberry Pi B model in the mail I made up my mind to make a case for it (pretty much a necessity). After looking at many very cool designs, I discovered a girl named Biz over at had made a case out of Lego and had the proper x & y dimensions, 9 x 13. So I ran the “Lego Digital Design” (LDD) software I had installed quite awhile ago, and plugged away.

LDD is essential a CAD program from Lego that uses the Lego pieces in a virtual build area, it is free and very easy to use. It contains almost all the pieces EVER made by Lego, in ALL the colours available though some recent ones are not in the database. i.e. some new Star Wars cockpits.
So after you have finished what ever you design virtually you can then order the pieces to build from Lego itself (most older pieces are not available) or from a site such as Bricklink.

Bricklink is basically a Lego version of ebay. As of 2012 there are 222,835 registered members from 144 countries currently registered on BrickLink. It has thousands of Local and World Wide online stores with their own inventories that let you browse, shop or request pieces and then order the pieces you need and then they are mailed to you. What more could you ask for.
I am sure there are other sites like Bricklink, but I have found it has some online stores near my house that have all I could want in Lego at great prices and delivery rates. I have even started shopping for harder to find pieces from a shop in the Czech Republic that is great. Anyway… the case.

Instead of trying to describe each step I just took screenshots of the build in LDD.
I will also include the .lxf file so you can download it and run it in the LDD program so you can change things or design your own. Enjoy.

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Step 1: Complete Parts List

Amount - Description      Part #

  2 - 1x1 Brick                     #3005  (Clear)
  2 - 1x2 Brick                     #3004   (Clear)

  1 - 1x1 Round Plate        #6141

  3 - 1x1 Plate                    #3024
  7 - 1x2 Plates                  #3023
  4 - 1x3 Plates                  #3623
  9 - 1x4 Plates                  #3710
10 - 1x8 Plates                  #3460
  1 - 1x12 Plate                  #60479
  8 - 3x3 Plates, ¼ Circle   #30357
  4 – 4x6 Plates                  #3032 
  7 - 4x8 Plates                   #3035
  4 - 6x6 Plates w/ Bow      #6003

  3 - 1x1 Technic Brick       #6541
  9 - 1x2 Technic Brick       #32000
(The Technic Brick #3700 has 1 hole instead of  2 if you like)
  1 - 1x8 Technic Brick       #3702
  1 - 1x10 Technic Brick     #2730

  2 - 1x3x2 Left Doors        #3189
  1 - 1x3x2 Right Door       #3188
  2 - 1x3 Right Doors         #3821
  1 - Megaphone                #4349
A couple of optional parts used in Step 7
   1 - 1x2 Flat Plate            #3069  (Clear)
   or  2x2 Flat Plate             #3068  (Clear)

Step 2:

Step 3: The Base

Lego Raspberry Pi Case.
(All Parts Black unless noted).
Update: I have changed the LDD files to another site as Minus is not cooperating.
Lego Digital Design .lxf file of the project and 4 other Cases I was working on. Stored on

I have colour coded the parts that are being used in each Level,
they will be changed to the cases final colour (mostly Black) as the build progresses.
Each Level builds on the Previous Level. 
Sorry for the Black backgrounds in the pictures, they were grey until I uploaded to my library. 

Level 1: Base       Lego Part # (if you are looking on Bricklink they come in VERY handy.
3 -  4x8 Plates       #3035
3 – 1x4 Plates       #3710
1 – 1x8 Plate         #3460
1 -  1x1 Plate         #3024

Level 2: Base 2
4 – 4x6 Plates       #3032
2 – 1x4 Plates       #3710
1 – 1x12 Plate       #60479
1 – 1x1 Plate         #3024

Step 4: The Footers

The Footer was originally so the RaspPi board had enough clearance for cord endings on the HDMI and Audio/Video area. I originally had different coloured small round nub pieces that sat under each plug, but when I lowered the board they just interfered. On the Ethernet plug I have found that it is VERY hard to get a cat 5 plug out if it has one of those covered ends. The kind that has sort of a rubber/silicone holder instead of just a bare plug. I have considered removing part of the Footer below it ( a 1x2 sized area) but I just cut of the rubber cover instead. 

Level 3: Footer
3 - 1x8 Plates       #3460
1 – 1x4 Plate        #3710
4 – 1x2 Plates      #3023
Ignore the 1x3 Plate in the image for Level 3 please.

Level 4: Footer 2
2 - 1x8 Plates      #3460
1 - 1x4 Plate        #3710
2 - 1x3 Plates      #3623
2 - 1x2 Plates      #3023
1 - 1x1 Plate        #3024

Step 5: The Walls and Doors

The walls were originally clear, in fact most of the case was until I discovered how hard it was to find clear pieces anymore. 
It looked really cool in LDD.

Level 5: Wall
7 - 1x2 Technic Brick      #32000
(The Technic Brick #3700 has 1 hole instead of  2 if you like)
1 - 1x1 Technic Brick     #6541
1 - 1x2 Brick                    #3004   Clear
1 - 1x1 Brick                    #3005   Clear
1 – Megaphone             #4349

Level 6: Wall 2
1 - 1x10 Technic Brick   #2730
1 - 1x8 Technic Brick     #3702
2 - 1x2 Technic Brick     #32000
2 - 1x1 Technic Brick     #6541
1 - 1x2 Brick                    #3004   Clear
1 - 1x1 Brick                    #3005   Clear
1 – 1x1 Round Plate     #6141
2 – 1x3x2 Left Doors     #3189    Blue
1 – 1x3x2 Right Door    #3188    Blue
2 – 1x3 Right Doors      #3821    1 Black, 1 Blue

Step 6: Header

The Header ties it all together, and makes it quite strong.

Level 7: Header
4 - 1x8 Plates       #3460
2 - 1x3 Plates       #3623
1 - 1x2 Plate         #3023

Step 7: The Roof

Because of the odd 9x13 layout I was not sure how to close up the case. I wanted to put in a fan... just in case, and that's when I switched to the Technic Bricks with their holes. I also considered hinges and trap doors but it all did not work. When I found the round corners I knew I had a roof, I loved the roundness of it. I also had round corners in the Technic wall level but it interfered with the Board fitting, which sucked as I again liked the roundness of it. The Roof back corner above the GPIO is easily removable and there is lots of room (I hope) in the back for a header to come out obove the SD card.

Level 8: Roof
2 – 1x4 Plates                   #3710
2 – 6x6 Plates w/ Bow     #6003
2 – 3x3 Plates, ¼ Circle  #30357

Level 9: Roof Trim
2 – 6x6 Plates w/ Bow      #6003
6 – 3x3 Plates, ¼ Circle   #30357 4 Dark Blue, 2 Black

Step 8: Finished Product and Observations

So it turns out that the Raspberry Pi Type B board was not designed with Lego in mind from what I can tell. ;)  
Most Lego pieces are based on even numbers (at least the ones I wanted). The fact the outline was 9x13 in Lego profile made it hard to get a strong base which is why there are so many Plate levels.
You may find your RaspPi board fits tighter or more loose than mine. I put a flat 2x2 clear Plate* (see below) up on edge in the corner were the clear pieces are, squished between the wall and the board to stop the board moving when I put the SD card in or removed it. That is also the reason I used the Megaphone, to separate the USB ports and Ethernet port and hold the board in place. I had also had small 1x1 Plate pieces underneath to hold Board off the base but discovered they were not needed.

*1 – 1x2 Flat Plate            #3069  Clear
   or  2x2 Flat Plate            #3068  Clear

Update: I have changed the LDD files to another site as Minus is not cooperating.
Lego Digital Design .lxf file of the project and 4 other Cases I was working on. Stored on

Really put a lot of time in this and am really looking forward to using my Raspberry Pi. Hope this is useful. 
Thanks to Acacia and Sprocket for their help.

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45 Discussions


2 years ago

Can you sell the parts on eBay?

In Brazil we can not buy spare parts

1 reply

Reply 2 years ago

You may find them sold on ebay, but is so much better.


4 years ago on Introduction

I FINALLY got all the pieces in from Bricklink (great site!!!) But, need to figure it out for the RPi 2. It is a definitely a tight fit with the A model.


Reply 5 years ago on Introduction

@skip_pi, @darrennie:

I've been thinking about designing a case for the model B+, but with the B+, all of the many ports are so close together; that complicates things a bit. However, there is a nice Kickstarter project that was just successfully funded; it's called the Smarti-Pi Case. It is a nice case, which is compatible with LEGO. Check out the site:

Go to the site, scroll down and check out its features. I already pre-ordered two of them. With its low cost and functionality, I'm thinking that it'd be tough to make something as good and cost-efficient out of LEGO alone. What do you guys think?


Reply 5 years ago on Introduction

Wow that is a project I would have backed had I known about it. I got so tired of KS telling me about total crap projects that I cancelled their e-mails. I guess when I get a B+ I can look at buying the smarticase. Thanks for the link and feel free to post about the smarticase when you get it.​


Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

We are the creators of the LEGO compatible SmartiPi. It is now available at


Reply 5 years ago on Introduction

hi zriel, great initiative.

My honest opinion:

- now that I know bricklinks, the overall cost of a case is less than 7 gbp that's 11.30 usd all in all. The smarticase at 18 usd wouldn't make a huge difference indeed for the cost ... however

- as i'm conscious about the planet i prefer recycling "unused" legos from bricklinks

- and most importantly i love assembling legos (yes i still :)

hope it makes sense.



Reply 5 years ago on Introduction

Not at the moment skip_py, I am on a waiting list to buy the B+ so maybe after Christmas.


4 years ago on Introduction

My 8 year old son got a Raspberry Pi for Christmas from his cousin in France. I am going to put him to work on the lego case right away. Thanks for the tips!

1 reply

5 years ago on Introduction

Made this but slightly modified for my B+. Good tutorial.


5 years ago on Introduction

Thank you very much for your work on this. I have made 10 enclosures, using your instructions. However, I have modified the roof. Instead, the roof is connected to a hinge, so that it opens (for GPIO access, etc...).

2 replies

Reply 5 years ago on Introduction

Here are some instructions for adding my modified hinged roof, if you'd rather not use the round corner plates. Follow darrennie's instructions through "Step 5: Header."

(I) You need the following parts for this hinged roof:
4 -- 1x2 Plate Modified w/ Clip on Top - #92280
4 -- 1x2 Plate Modified w/ Handle on End (Closed Ends) - #60478
2 -- 1x1 Tile - #3070/3070b
1 -- 1x4 Tile - #2431
3 -- 1x8 Tile - #4162
1 -- 1x8 Plate - #3460
1 -- 2x10 Plate - #3832
3 -- 4x8 Plate - #3035
1 -- 4x10 Plate - #3030 (or you can use two 2x10 Plates)

(II) Place the Tiles and the 2x10 Plate on top of the "Header," as shown in the first attached picture (according to the point-of-view indicated). Notice that one of the two columns of the the 2x10 Plate will hang over the edge of the case.

(III) Place the 1x2 Plates with Clip on the 2x10 Plate from step (II) above, as shown in the second attached picture.

(IV) Now for the very top: on a flat surface, line up the three 4x8 Plates with the 1x8 Plate, as shown in the third attached picture.

(V) Attach the 4x10 Plate, as well as the 1x2 Plates with Handles, to those plates from step (IV) above, as shown in the fourth attached picture.

(VI) Now attach the handles to the clips, and you've got yourself a hinged roof!

Step 1.pngStep 2.pngStep 3.pngStep 4.png

Reply 5 years ago on Introduction

Thanks so much @zriel for posting your mods, and sorry for the delay in replying.

I tried to figure out a retractable roof when I was doing mine but the lego was getting thin and I had other projects on the go. Yet another example of cool Instructables really is.


5 years ago on Step 8

Very good write up. I just found your post after throwing together my first pi lego case. I'm sure there will be more to come.

1 reply