If you have the same little problems like me, you are right now* staring on an empty place in your room and wondering "Man, I am a huge fan of No More Heroes and I have got a free area of about 60 x 80 cm in my apart from that desperately overstuffed little chamber. What can I do?"
Let me deliver you from your spare space and tell you: There is a solution.
Follow my Instructable and let me help you fill the gap with a not even too expensive 1:1 paper version of Travis Touchdown, including his shining Beam Katana.
On the promo picture, the figure looks a bit small, because of the focal blur, but it's not. It's 1.86m.
And for the Epilog contest I have to add: I would love and hug my laser cutter, call it Jorge and use him to make awesome 3D-figures and mechanics out of wood, because I don't love and hug my jigsaw, it even kind of annoys me.
Let's start into the project with a fitting quote from the intro of No More Heroes I:
"It's gonna be a long, hard road. But who knows? Could kick ass. Could be dangerous. Could totally suck."
*for all the smartypants: Of course not right now, as you would have to read as you watch as you wonder.
Step 1: How I Made the Model
(Editor's note: Who thinks of a series when reading this title watches too much TV)
Yet another step which you can skip, arousing the anger of the creator (which is me).
I put so much time in the creation of the model, so I would like to tell you how I made it. Sounds fair? Okay.
Neither the model nor the textures are ripped from the original game, I made everything from scratch. For the modeling, I used Anim8or, which is freeware, for the texturing I used Paint Shop Pro X2, which is not as free as Anim8or, and for the unfolding I used Pepakura, which is definitely not as free as Anim8or.
I started with searching for reference photos for Travis and his Beam Katana, but the gain was rare, so I took some photos of Travis's wardrobe in the (second) game.
For the model, I used my own (Paper Clone) as a reference model, regrettably not finding too many similarities, so basically everything had to be made new (I could use some parts of the shoes, hurray).
The texturing was more fun. I could mess around with my graphical tablet.. At least one day, until I hurt my hand and had to draw further with the mouse.. Well it worked either. As this is a round model, I had to create many seamless textures, and in the end I had about 35 textures on the model.
The unfolding job was endless, the model consists of 3500 faces and I had to check the place of each one of them, getting them in an order one is able to glue the right pieces together. For the first time in my life, I added sequence-numbers to the sites, but I found out it really helps (surprise).
And then, finally, the crafting: Yay! That's fun. I love crafting! Everything grows together.. A great thing. Unfortunately I still had my hand hurt (I still have), making the crafting look a bit ridiculous, but who cares. Result's what counts!
Step 2: Preparation
- The download-link
- 130 sheets of thick paper:160 - 250 g/m² - 10$
- A printer and enough ink for 130 sheets of thick paper: Should be a bit more than half of an ink cartridge. - 20$ (depends on brand)
- One transparent sheet:For example those which you need for over-head projectors. Travis needs them for his eyes and his sunglasses. - 1$
- Reflecting tape or foil: a bit more than 0.1m². You need it for the blade of the Beam Katana. Not easy to get, ask eBay. - 8$
- Blue transparent foil: I used a blue book cover foil. It lets the blade glow blue. - 1.49$
- Cardboard: in total the size of 6 times DIN A4
- Crafting Stuff:cutter, scissors, small scissors, tweezers, small clothes-pins, glue (both stick and tube)
There we are at 40.49$, but how expensive it really is depends most on which printer ink do you use.
Step 3: Some Things for You to Know
Parts of this step will be copied 1:1 from my Paper Clone Instructable, just because they still didn't change.
The right printer: This time I chose the laser printer instead of the inkjet printer. The high contrast, great colors and reflections it creates are fitting to the art style of the game.
And that were all the advantages. The color is crumbly and falls off the edges, gluing it together is a ride on a burning horse through hell. And it falls apart easier, but this should not happen.
How to glue: You should always have some kind of a narrow piece of paper. Rip it and you have something like a glue-brush. Do a bit glue on it or the flap and arrange it with that piece. You often need less then expected. Press it together for 5 seconds (add like 55 for laser-printed paper) and it should hold together. Don't do more than one flap simultaneously. When you have trouble with the last parts because the flaps are inside, you can cut a hole into a face, print it again on normal paper and glue it over the hole again.
Nice to know: The flaps are all yours. You can make them thicker, smaller, thinner, color them pink. It doesn't matter, they are hidden in the end, make them yourself comfortable.
How to fold: Only folds of over 30° are shown on the instructions. Folds of 90° and above should be carved with the scissors and a ruler first. Dashed lines are mountain folds, dotted-dashed lines are valley folds.
And now I kindly advise you to print all.. how much are that.. like 130?.. sheets on the thick paper and the transparent-foil-image to the transparent foil.
Step 4: The Beam Katana
The pages are numbered. It makes sense to keep this order. The letters in the brackets show which part has to be glued there.
- Glue together the following pieces to make the decorative end of the Katana: a, b, c, d, e. This won't be glued on the handle, otherwise Travis doesn't get it in his dead paper hands.
- Glue together f, g, h, k.
- Make the blade: Wrap the 3 pieces (i2, i3, i4) together with the aid of a broomstick and fix them with sticky tape (Or use glue if you chose difficulty 'hard'). Then wrap the reflective tape diagonally around it without creating gaps (Don't forget to fix it with glue from tome to time) and afterwards the blue foil. Seal the ends with i1 and i5.
- Make that long triangular thing (j1, j2, j3, j4, j5)
- Make parts l (I forgot the l.. It is the only part that is missing a letter) and m and glue part f - m together.
- If it is too wobbly, you can push a bamboo stick through the whole thing.
Step 5: The Head
- Begin with the nose and glue all the parts around the nose. Again you should build it in the right page-order. I took a photo after each page, at least for one side of the head, the other one wouldn't be a surprise anymore.
- Optionally, you can cut out the eyes and glue another pair of glossy eyes behind it, using either the eyes on the transparent foil with a white background or another pair of eyes with transparent sticky tape over it (Which I recommend. Ink on transparent foil is blurry as hell).
- For the fragile sunglasses, cut out the inner part first, then glue the orange glasses behind them and then cut it out and grace Travis's face with them.
Step 6: The Hands
- Make the fingers first (Write on the inside which one it is!) and glue them on the hand back. That has the following advantages: The extremely boring work on 10 fingers mutates to assembly line work and is only boring once. But also the fingers are the part of the hands which you can see, the palm is hidden and doesn't have to look that nice. The second photo shows the fingers on the back of the hand.
- Then add the palm, gluing the inside of the fingers last.
Step 7: The Body
- The Shirt: Start with pages 1, 2 (only the collar), 3
- Make a ring out of pages 2, 4, 5 and keep both parts separated. You can already add the cardboard plate from step 5.
- The Jacket-Body: Make the parts in the following order: 1L, 2L, 3L, ... 10L* and then the right side.
- Glue the 4 pieces together: Right to left part and the shirt in between, then add the lower shirt-ring.
- Cut out the first 'Cut out twice from cardboard'-plate (from cardboard.. obviously) and fix it to the body, best on the inside of the flaps, so it won't be visible later. Cut a hole in the plate first, this makes it comfortable to attach.
Step 8: The Arms and the Collar
- Make the collar. This shouldn't be too hard, but on the inside, the flaps that are attached to the head have to be valley folds, not mountain folds.
- Make the arms, 1L - 8L and 1R - 8R. Again you can see the progress after each page on the photos.
- Attach the collar, then the arms to the body. When you fix the arms, start with the 'armpit'-flap.
- Attach the hands to the arms.
- Attach the head to the body - glue the 4 front-flaps first and then tilt the head backwards on the collar-flaps (Now you are happy that you made a hole in the cardboard plate.. Did you?).
Step 9: The Legs
- Glue together the parts from the pages 1L - 18L. After (nearly) each page there is a photo of the progress. After page 7, you should model the rings first, consisting of 3 - 5 pages and then attach the whole ring to the leg, it will be easy because the flaps are zip-lock-likely disposed.
- Glue together the shoe and the leg's end 19L - 22L and attach it to the leg. Then glue the cardboard-sole (Again you can make a hole in the plate) to the bottom.
- Glue the right leg and glue both legs together, and the second cardboard-plate onto the hip.
Step 10: Touchdown!
- Beam Katana
- Beam Katana's decorative end
Here's the trick how to make the sword glow: The light source has to be not far from the eye, or if you take a photo, the flash will do its work.
Step 11: Bonus!
Here's a little not-so-life-size bonus for your perseverance: A papercraft model of Travis's bike, the Schpeltiger. Since life-size wasn't such a great option, I made it 1:20.
Runner Up in the