Maille and Plate Leg Armour

Intro: Maille and Plate Leg Armour

Here is My new leg armour. I opted not to make an instructable for them since they just use a continuation of the techniques in my Maille and Plates Armour instructable.

These are made from 1-1/4" pallet banding again, however i used 9mm flattened wedge rivet rings for the maille(meaning that i had to rivet EVERY ring shut) and a dished 16 gauge knee cop. all the buckles and fittings are hand made as well from 3/4" pallet banding and nails.

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    25 Discussions

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    armourkrisTwinMustang

    Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

    yep, I 've used it for heavy as well as cut and thrust, lately it's just been used for rebated steel fighting in the back yard though.

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    cdando

    6 years ago on Introduction

    First of all, this is awesome. very inspiring. I'm thinking of making some using the material used in gutters, I think it's tin? Would that work alright?

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    chase32615cdando

    Reply 5 years ago on Introduction

    you could use tin but its super weak and will break easily if u dont get the right kind i know this cause i was building a new shed since i ran out of room in my dads barn and had to put wood underneath it to keep it sturdy.

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    pyrorower

    9 years ago on Introduction

    I have always wanted to make something like this, though I was going to cut up soup cans to get the plates and had no clue what to do for the knee :P

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    Aetherealpyrorower

    Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

    I know it has sharp edges (and if you're planning on LARPing or anything SCA-related this is a baaaad idea, since it really can't take a hit) but you could try using aluminium flashing coil? It's pretty cheap and looks shiny (hence "flashing"), but if it's for only display/hallowe'en/cosplay, you could use it. Just make sure you sand down the edges and curve them a bit so there aren't sharp points. Getting cut with flashing coil hurts >.<

    Good luck!

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    Caleastro

    7 years ago on Introduction

    The reason the plates under lap is for being on horseback. If the plates overlapped the armor would not do much and piercing tools would pass under the armor. This way is glances off.

    Very nice armor.

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    Mailleman42

    7 years ago on Introduction

    wow, i'm making chainmail and it is taking me forever, i watch all the vids on it and, there rings they use are almost twice as big as mine! i think thats why it taking me longer, but then more protective, hmmm

    oh i used 14 gauge wire steel galv, not sissy 16 gauged, and i heard of a guy who made "bulletproof" chainmail with 8 gauged wire.

    i also make dragonscale to supplement my armour, like a layover

    im from the midwest! children of the corn!

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    frollardfrollard

    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    are those slats overlaying 'bottom to top' or 'top to bottom'? It looks as if they are backward what they should be (photos aren't very clear/closeup) It would seem that attacks would be from 'above'...as would any fluids poured on them - so you'd want them overlapping the other way... --or does that make them not fit properly?

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    armourkrisfrollard

    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    they do overlap bottom to top, it seems a bit counter intuitive, but every picture I've seen of existing maille and plate armours overlaps this way. I don't think it really makes any functional difference either way, but since thats how it was done historically it;s how i chose to do it.

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    Ghalkoarmourkris

    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    Think horseback. Legs are bent, so anything sharp coming at you would be deflected rather than getting caught in the seams. Also good for keeping lighter metal from getting caught by a low up-swing under your shield.

    I'm still working on getting the tools to make my own riveted rings. I bought these rings from Historic enterprises. but once i have the stuff to make my own rings I'll definitely make an instructable on how to do it.

    Naruto is right, i dished them. My instructable on making a buckler shows how to dish metal. for knee cops like this start by putting a pencil behing your knee and bending it, then measure the distance over your knee from one side of the pencil to the other, that gives you your width. next measure the distance over the point of your knee to get how tall to make them. once you have those 2 measurements draw a cross using them then draw an oval that touches all 4 points. dish it and you;ve got a basic knee cop. I think that makes sence, if not let me know and i;ll try and clear it up a bit.

    he bowled a piece of metal and cut it down to the right size i think... if your wondering what bowling is i belive he has an instructable for making a buckler that has how to bowl in it