Make Your Own Hot-Glue Mallet! (Rubber Hammer) | DIY Woodworking Tools #4

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Introduction: Make Your Own Hot-Glue Mallet! (Rubber Hammer) | DIY Woodworking Tools #4

About: -----------------------------------------------------------------16 year old, sick with a deadly disease called DIY-itis!-----------------------------------------------------------------Hi FTC! My I'bles con...

Why would I buy a Rubber Mallet? Why should I pay almost $10 for a small piece of rubber and a handle?Well, I can make one with several sticks of Hot-Glue!

In my experiments, A Rubber Mallet is even BETTER than a Wooden Mallet for Chisel-work. Keep this in mind, Fellow Woodworkers! ;)

This project was originally inspired by Chitlange Sahas' Rubber Mallet using Hot glue Instructable. His method didn't work very well for me, So I thought of a different method. Also way funner!

It was a super fun project to make, And I'll keep the intro short. Let's not keep you waiting ;)

Let's get started!

Step 1: What You'll Need

Hardware & Materials:

4 Sticks of Hot-Glue (The 30cm X 11mm ones)

Some Water

Steel Rod w/ a Threaded Tip (Unused part from an Ikea lamp)

Glass Pill Bottle (The bigger the diameter, The bigger the mallet...)

Soap

2 Plastic Bags




Tools (+Attachments):

Hot-Glue Gun (The big ones that have a high wattage)

Homemade Wooden Vise

10mm Drill-Bit

Utility Knife

Glass Cup

Hammer




Electric/Power Tools:

Microwave

Refrigerator

Drill

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Why: I need a Rubber Mallet!

Safety Gear Needed: Ventilated Area, Leather Gloves, Goggles

Cost (for me): $2.50

Skills: Basic

Approximate Time: 3 Hours (~60% of that was waiting time)

Step 2: Heat Up a Glass of Water

It all starts by heating up a glass of water. This is to stop the glass from cracking from the temperature differences, And to help the Hot-Glue cool down slower (Next step)

I put a glass of water for a little over a minute in the microwave, But a kettle would work too.

I slowly submerged the jar into the water, While being careful to not let it crack

Step 3: Squirt the Hot-Glue Into the Glass Jar

I started squirting the Hot-Glue into the jar, While making sure that no water would enter through the top.

I find it easier to push the Hot-Glue inside, While holding down the trigger

Step 4: Let the Hot-Glue Cool Down

I let the Hot-Glue cool down for an hour outside. In case you're wondering, It was only slightly warm after 60 minutes.

I later put it in the refrigerator, And (kind of)(maybe) forgot about it. It's actually a good idea to forget about it, Because it's better for the Hot-Glue to harden.

Step 5: Smash the Glass Jar on the Floor!

I first wrapped the jar in two plastic-bags, And then threw it on the floor. Surprisingly, It took me about 5 times to even get a crack in the glass!

Just make sure to wear safety glasses, You can never be too safe

Step 6: SAFELY Remove All of the Glass

I looks easier than it actually is, But Hot-Glue adheres pretty well to glass. I smashed it several times with a hammer, And peeled if of with my hands, Obviously with thick leather gloves

Step 7: Wash the Hot-Glue Mold

I wanted to remove all of the excess dirt, And if possible, Also small pieces of glass.

I gave it a quick rinse, Rubbed it with soap, Rinsed it again, Applied more soap, And washed it off. I then dried it off with a towel

Step 8: Cutting Off the Excess Piece of the Hot-Glue Mold

There was some extra Hot-Glue from the jar's "neck". I used a utility knife to cut that off. A "Hot-Wire Cutter" would be better for the job, But I still haven't built one...

I also not learned that this was a different type of Hot-Glue compared to what I usually use, It is way tougher. I was at a Home-Center buying several clamps for my workshop, When I spotted the Hot-Glue and remembered that I'm almost running out...

With that said, Don't mix several different types of hot-Glue in the same mold

Step 9: Drilling a Hole for the Handle, & Screwing It In

I clamped the Hot-Glue mold in my Homemade Wooden Vise, And used a drill to drill a hole in the middle of the mold, About ¾ of the way in. This will serve as a hole which the Mallet's handle will get inserted into.

I next screwed in the handle. Perfect fit!

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DONE!

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117 Discussions

Thanks. Define durable!

I don't use it very often, but when I need it, I'm always happy that I made it. What are you planning on using it for?

Don't have one, don't know. Maybe you can make an HDPE mallet., which I think should be stronger...

It has been on my to-do list for like 2 years!

I'm currently working one, but am stuck on something. Instructable to be published soon, hopefully! :)

I don't think you can get glass pill bottles around here. Any idea how to remove a plastic one if you substitute?

1 reply

Do you have glass mason jars?

Do you mean to pry the hot glue cast off of the plastic bottle mold? I'm not sure if that would work. If you can find a plastic that doesn't even soften at the temperature that hot glue melts (ie ABS/HDPE/PP/PS, I don't know), I'd use some type of oil to lubricate it.

Looking forward to see it! :)

Addition: I seem to forget what I write in my I'bles... I forgot that I broke the jar. Maybe cut the plastic bottle in half with a hot knife, remove it, and then re-melt the part of the hot glue that got damaged? Just an idea...

Thank you for this instructable, now i can finish the fretting job on my ukulele, without spending big money for a little sized rubber mallet. Great.

1 reply

I suppose, if one were to insert a smaller pill bottle half full of BBs, while the hot glue was still liquid, one could make a dead-fall hammer.

6 replies

I've never heard of that hammer, And Googled it...

What would be the difference? Would it just be heavier?

Dead-fall or (as they're more commonly known) dead-blow hammers don't 'bounce' when they strike something.The shot inside the hammer keeps moving forward when you strike something, keeping the hammer face solidly on the object you struck.

This does two things: it makes sure the full force of the blow is transferred to the object you're hitting and that all the force goes in one direction (instead of rebounding). Second the force is applied over a longer time, which can minimize denting by lowering the peak force applied to the struck object (go look up plastic versus elastic deformation, you get dents when you exceed the elastic modulus of a material)

This is very useful when doing things like knocking dovetails together or mortises into tenons, you get more force put into moving the joints together but don't dent the wood, and it's more controllable than a simple rubber mallet.

Thank You, I didn't know that! It's actually pretty interesting...

I've done some slow-mo experiments, And the Mallet does bounce up a bit when hit (Only once). The Mallet weighs only 225 grams, But it does feel heavier than that.

My Homemade Plywood Mallet weighs 100 grams, And bounces up pretty much the same as the Hot-Glue Mallet. The Plywood Mallet does feel too light when I strike something, But the Hot-Glue Mallet doesn't.

I like the Hot-Glue Mallet not only because it is slightly softer than my Plywood Mallet, But also because it just weighs more...

Anyway, I have some lead which I wanted to use for making a Mallet, And this is another reason too :)

Dead-blow hammers are great tools for removing dents from sheet metal, or when you need precise blows on softer woods without worrying about scuffs from a rebounding hammerhead.

Usually called dead blow hammer. The lead shot gives it weight but the loose nature of the fill prevents the hammer from bouncing back.