Make an Infinity Mirror Cube

4,370

63

8

Introduction: Make an Infinity Mirror Cube

About: Creating DIY projects

When I was looking up information when making my first infinity mirror, I came across some images and videos of infinity cubes, and definitely wanted to make one of my own. The main thing that was holding me back was that I wanted to do it differently than anyone else. I think I finally came up with a design that is different.

This project uses some custom made circuit boards that I used instead of LED strips. LED strips could also be used, but these allowed me to choose the spacing for the LEDs to get the size of cube that I wanted.

If you would like to watch a video version of this Instructable, you can watch that here: https://youtu.be/tmyQh9ZPkBg

Supplies:

Tools

Parts

Supplies

Teacher Notes

Teachers! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.

Step 1: Start With the Addressable LED Strips

For my cube, I used some custom made strips, you can check out my Instructable for that process here: Make Custom LED Strips

For whichever strips you use, you will need 12 that are equally sized. Before connecting the 12 strips together, I need to discuss the layout. I drew out a diagram to help me plan the connections. I have included it in this step, feel free to print it out. I numbered all of the strips, and the arrows in the diagram match the flow of the data connections.

The data is input at strip 1 then goes to 2, then 3, then 4. The diagram shows 5 twice, but they are really both the same strip. The same with 6 and most of the rest. But now at 7 notice the squiggly lines. At 7 the data path comes to a dead end, so I added a wire to bring the signal back over to 8. Then it goes to 9, and then 10. Here we have another dead end, so I added another wire to bring me back to 11. After 11 there isn't a direct connection to 12, so I use a third wire to bypass 2 to get me from 11 to 12. And that's the end of the data path. Overall I added 3 bypass wires with the strips.

Step 2: Connect the LED Strips

When wiring the LED strips together, I used a wooden jig that I made to hold 3 of them together at a time. Each group of 3 strips only had 2 strips connect directly here. For all 3 positive (+) connections I connected for all 3. For all 3 negative (-) connections I connected all 3. The data wire just followed the data path.

I ended up with 4 of the groups of 3, then I followed these same steps for to connect each of those.

Once all of the LED strips are connected together, I added the 3 bypass wires (the red wire in the picture.) It's a good idea to test the LEDs at this point, before putting them in the box.

Step 3: Test Fit the Part of the Box

6 pieces of plexiglass are needed, 3 1/2" x 3 3/16". The picture shows how I assembled them with exaggerated lengths. I held the pieces together with painters tape.

Once all 6 pieces are together, I marked in 1/4" from all corners on all sides. Then I take the box apart and at all of these marks I drill a 1/16" hole.

Step 4: Apply the Semi-Transparent Film

I removed one side of protective film from the plexiglass pieces. 3 at a time, I applied the partially reflective film, smoothing out the bubbles with an old gift card. I cut apart the 3 pieces and trimmed away the excess film.

After this was done, I needed to cut away a bit of the film so that the sides of the box can be glued together. I only trimmed away on the sides of the longer length. What this means is that the final film on the plastic should be a square that is about 3 3/16" x 3 3/16". If a bit extra is trimmed away, that's ok because that part will be hidden behind the LED strips.

Step 5: Add the Thumbtacks

One key part of the design/function are the thumbtacks in the corners. For most of the corners, I trimmed the point of the thumbtack to be short. Then I glue the thumbtacks into the small holes of the corners. (I used E6000, but I'm sure other glues would work too.)

That was MOST of the corners. For 3 of the corners I did NOT use trimmed thumbtacks, and I did NOT glue them into the holes. In the next step I explain more.

Step 6: Add the Wires Inside of the Box

For the final 3 thumbtacks, I use those to get the power and data connections inside the box. I add solder to the the tip of the thumbtacks to tin them. Then I put them in the holes, and using a plastic mallet I bend the tip of the wire. Now I can solder a wire to the thumbtack. I use 3 different colors of wires for the 3 different thumbtack connections.

Step 7: Glue Half the Box Together

We are now ready to assemble the box. Start with these 3 sides, gluing them together with the wired thumbtacks next to each other.

Once the glue sets, I used hot melt glue to hold these wire into the corner edges of the box, in different directions.

Step 8: Wire the LED Strips Into the Box

With these 3 wires secured in those edges, I left the length of the wires long to give me room to work with. I soldered the green wire to the data input connection of the first LED strip. The red wire I soldered to any positive (+) connection, and the white wire to any negative (-) connection. Now it's ready for all of the other sides to be glued in place.

Step 9: Final Decorations

After that glue sets, I remove all of the tape and protective film. Before I lose track of which thumbtacks are for power and data, I mark them with a marker, indicating which wire it's connected to.

I marked straight lines 1/2" in from all edges. I use these lines as a guide to help me place the aluminum tape (2 1/2" x 1") along the edges. Make sure the aluminum foil doesn't touch any of the thumbtacks.

Step 10: The Support Tower

I'm not going to go into much detail about the support tower that I used because I'll be rebuilding it and making an Instructable specific for that. But here is some info about this one.

It has an Arduino Nano for control. The tower has 3 pillars, each one with a gap carved out for the Arduino and wiring. The gap is positioned so that even after the pillars are glued together, I still have access to the mini USB port of the Arduino.

At the top of the tower you can see a thumbtack in each of the 3 pillars. These are connected to the Arduino and provide the power and data connection to the cube. Each tower I have labeled to match the labels I made on the cube connections. These tower thumbtacks have magnets with them to help ensure a steady connections with the cube.

At the bottom of the tower you can see a thumbtack in each of the 3 pillars. These are for capacitive touch sensors to change different options available in the Arduino program.

Step 11: And That's It for Now!

And that's it!

This infinity cube has no external wires on the cube itself. Although this means it won't light up when being held, I still like it like this. It doesn't have many functions yet, but it's definitely not permanent. If you have any ideas for lighting patterns, or any other suggestions on the design, please comment and let me know.

Thanks for checking out my Instructable!

Make it Glow Contest

Participated in the
Make it Glow Contest

Be the First to Share

    Recommendations

    • Trash to Treasure Contest

      Trash to Treasure Contest
    • Raspberry Pi Contest 2020

      Raspberry Pi Contest 2020
    • Wearables Contest

      Wearables Contest

    8 Discussions

    0
    RuffittDesign
    RuffittDesign

    5 weeks ago

    Nice build! Never thought to make an arty device like this wireless (At least in the way that it has no external slots for power or batteries). Having it power-up on contact with the tower is pretty novel, I may do a build based on this!

    1
    How Do You - DIY
    How Do You - DIY

    Reply 4 weeks ago

    That was one of the main things that I wanted to do with this build. I'm glad I was able to figure out an easy way to do it. I would love to see what you build if you end up using this concept!

    0
    RuffittDesign
    RuffittDesign

    Reply 4 weeks ago

    I'm trying to get my head around polarity issues though- Designing a cube in such a way that no matter how you slot it into a cradle (or tower), the positive and negative feeds line up correctly.
    I thinking more along the lines of instead of having connections in the very corner of each face of the cube, have a point on the very corners/vertexes of the cube for say Pos, and a small ring around each of those vertex points for Neg.

    Would be easier to wire than separate ports on each and every corner, possibly?
    (See attached image)

    Infinity cube power supply.png
    0
    How Do You - DIY
    How Do You - DIY

    Reply 4 weeks ago

    I was having the same issue. It would be awesome to be able to just place it in any position, but I ended up making it only work in one specific position. I put marks on the necessary corners to help me place it correctly. All of the other corners just match for appearances. But I do like the idea you have with using the rings like that in each of the corners.

    I wonder what would work for making the rings?

    0
    RuffittDesign
    RuffittDesign

    Reply 4 weeks ago

    Why not use copper tape? Doesnt need to a be round "ring" as such- could have 3 strips of copper tape making a triangular shape, then solder to the rear of the tape through a hole drilled in the cube material. Same goes for the centre of the "ring", just a shaped piece of copper tape.

    Like this stuff- the narrower the better.
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Copper-ROLLS-4inch-Conductive-Adhesive/dp/B01CH4LYZ6

    0
    How Do You - DIY
    How Do You - DIY

    Reply 22 days ago

    That's a great idea! Using copper tape would open up a lot of options.

    0
    ptollgren lazarov
    ptollgren lazarov

    5 weeks ago on Step 10

    Nice build. I like the idea :)
    But, I am missing the wiring in the support tower and on the Adruino. Also I can't find the code for the Arduino.

    0
    How Do You - DIY
    How Do You - DIY

    Reply 5 weeks ago

    I'm working on an Instructable that focuses on the support tower, that will have the wiring for the tower and the Arduino. The new tower design will fix some issue I'm having, specifically with the touch sensors I used. This will affect the Arduino code, so I'm planning on adding that to this Instructable once it's sorted out.

    Thanks for the comment!