Makebooth a D.I.Y. for a Micbooth




Introduction: Makebooth a D.I.Y. for a Micbooth

Always wanted to record your music more professionally, but can't afford studio time... Why not make your own micbooth?

It's easy and cheap with some regular materials from the hardwarestore. Of course you can extend and improve with professoinal materials, but then it will cost you a lot more.

All you need is some space (1m2) and the materials shown in step one. If you follow this intructable the result will look like this: see pictures

Watch the video for the results:

if you just want to hear the results watch this short video:

Teacher Notes

Teachers! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.

Step 1: Gathering the Materials

CAUTION: for this instructable the sizes of the micbooth can be diffrent in your room. For this instructable I've used the measurements of my own room wich is 1m2,2,45m high and i use two existing walls in my room (a corner). It's very important to measure your own room; don't just use the sizes in my example.


-polystrene plates 1m x 50 cm x 5cm (10 pieces)
-Isotop isolation 1m x 50 cm (20 pieces)
*2 pieces of 2,45m x 5cm x 2,5cm (as wide as the polystrene)
*1 piece of 2,45m x 5cm x 7,5cm
*8 pieces of 1m x 5cm x 2,5cm
*2 pieces of 2m x 5cm x 2,5cm
*1 piece of 60cm x 5cm x 2,5cm
*1 piece of 10cm x 5cm x 2,5cm
-hardboard plates:(as light as possible, regarding the weight)
*2,45m x 1,05m (1 piece)
*2m x 1,05m (1 piece)
-wood screws
-concrete screws
-door articulation (3 pieces)
-doorknob/ doormagnets
-iron corner plates


-measure roll

Step 2: Constructing the 1st Wall

-Take two of the beams with the sizes 2,45m x 5cm x 2,5cm. I've chosen the 5cm wide beams because it will match the 5cm from the polystrene blocks perfectly.

-Since we're gonna build a frame of woodbeams that will surround the polystrene blocks we need 2 beams of 1m x 5cm x 2,5cm as well.

-Make sure the inside of the frame is exactly 1m wide meter so the polystrene blocks will fit inside.

-The 2,45m length is the hight of my room so the frame will fit standing up.

-screw the frame together.

-Now take the hardboardplate of 2,45m x 1,05m (the wide of the frame) and nail it to one side of the frame using some proper nails.

-Fill the inside of the frame with the polystrene blocks. Since the hight of the room is 2m45 we're not completely using all the polystrene, but save the leftovers! Make sure the are no spaces between the blocks. Fill them if you can.

-Take the second hardboardplate and cover the other side of the frame so you create a nice solid wall that will fit standing up in your room.

Step 3: Constructing the 2nd Wall/door

Basically what we're going to do here is the same as in step 2. Only since this is gonna be the door we're making this one 2m long instead of the 2,45m from step 2. So we need the beams of 2m x 5cm x 2,5 cm (2) and the 1m x 5cm x 2,5cm beams and some screwes to screw it all together. Note that we're only using 4 polystrene blocks.

I'm only using one hardboardplate on the outside of the door so the door is lighter in weight and the Isotop isolating stuff will also be covering it.

Special note: make the door as light as possible, it makes it for the rest of the frame a whole lot easier to support the weight of the door.

Step 4: Preparing the Existing Wall for Hanging the Door, Wall 3

Right now we're gonna make a space were the door will hang and take the measurements were to place the wall created in step 1.

-First measure the width of the wall created in step 1; this should be exactly 1,05m due to the polystrene blocks and the frame.

-Since the door will be hung in front of the 3rd wall we need the door when closed to fit perfectly between the existing wall and the wall we created ourselfs, we also need the know the thickness of the door. In my case 10cm.

-Now substract this 10cm from the width of wall 1 (1,05m) so you'll know were to place the 2,45m x 5cm x 7,5cm beam. this will be at 95cm, meassured from the back of wall 5. This is the effective size of the inside of micbooth.

-Make sure you attach the beam very well because all the weight of the door is gonna hang on this beam.

Note: the 7,5cm thickness of beam gives the door enough rotation space to open. If you place the door to close to the wall the door can't open!

Now that you've placed this beam we can go on creating the 3rd wall which will stop the door from going to far inside the micbooth when opened. This wall will also make the door much more soundproof.

-First we need 4 beams of 1m x 5cm x 2,5cm, one of 15cm x 5cm x 2,5cm and one of 55cm.

-Take one beam of 1m and attach it to the ceiling and the beam you've recently placed on the existing wall. This will make the frame of the 3rd wall.

-Now take a second beam of 1m and place it on the ground and also attach it to the beam against the wall.

-On top of this beam you place a piece of polystrene with the sizes: 15cm x 50cm x 1m. this is a piece I've still got left from step 2 and 3 (filling the frame with polystrene).

-On top of the polystrene you need to place another beam to keep it al in place. Attach the beams and the polystrene together using the beam of 15cm. creating a small frame around the piece of polystrene.

-Do the same at the top of the room using the full size of a polystrene block and the beam of 55cm.

Now you've created some sort of wall with dooropening...which we need to attach to the 1st wall we're now gonna place.

Step 5: Placing the 1st Wall

This part is not that hard to do. Simply it's taking the wall you've created in step 2 and attach it to the structure you created in step 4. But now it all comes down to: make the pieces fit! Since you haven't attached wall 1 to wall 4 (the existing wall)till this point you can freely adjust the space between the structure and wall 1. Make it fit prefectly.
Use the iron corner plates doing this. I recommend to use screws designed for concrete when attaching wall 1 to wall 4.

Note: the door is gonna line up in exactly 90 degrees from wall 1 if closed. The place where you need to attach wall 1 to the structure from wall 3 is not at the end of wall 1, but at exactly 95cm from wall 4. (Look at the second picture with this step)

Step 6: Hanging the Door.

This part is tricky, the door is 2m high and 1,05m wide so it can easy cover the dooropening in wall 3. The tricky part is to make it a perfect fit. This is why we I used the 7,5cm beam on the wall so I got some space to work with. Since the door will be opening to the outside we need to have some space for the door to rotate. The tighter you can make the door cover the dooropening the better. But make sure the door opens!

-Use the door articulations to attach the door to the 7,5cm beam.

Step 7: Isolating the Inside

Now that you've got the structure completed and all the walls are standing we can really see what it looks like...

All we need to do is isolate the whole micbooth.
I've used the isotop isolation because of the way it absorbs the sound and makes a great accoustic. It even gives the micbooth that studio look. Don't be supprised to find this isotop isolation in the hardwarestore, 'cause everybody is rapping or dj-ing nowadayz...
These isotop plates come in diffrent sizes, but the most regular one is 1m x 50cm x 5cm, I've used that one to.

The isolating is simple; just fill every cm of the wall (now you got 4 of them; including the door, wall 1 (you build) wall 4 (already existed) wall 5 (already existed) and wall 3)
You can use glue to do this but that's up to you, I've used tiny nails to attach them to the wall.

In my case I've got an old carpet from my neighbours during the making of this micbooth, because they thought it was a good idea, and wanted to help (hahaha I can imagine why...)
But I've covered the outside of the micbooth with it and it seems to work! But its something extra.

Step 8: Final Adjustments

Now we're almost done! It's basically just a matter of placing the doorknob and doormagnets so the door stays closed etc.

If you want you can place an extra ceiling inside the micbooth by using again the polystrene blocks and the isotop isolation. Make this so light as possible and hang it in a few iron corner plate's in the top of the michbooth.

Also we're placing some polystrene on the ground. to cover it up I've used a piece of the old carpet again.

Step 9: The Result:

Okay, there you have it: your very own micbooth, just set up your mic and start recording.

Now I know there are a lot of instructables that show you how to rap or freestyle such as:

but I think they're stupid!
There are no rules according to how to rap, I wish people would take the lyrics more seriously. So now you can say what you want but remember rap was ment as form of communication. You as owner of this micbooth got the responsebility to give us new insights and elevate rap to the new forms of storytelling so don't use this instructable for the bling bling but use it for communication.

watch the video for the results:

if you just want to hear the results watch this short video:

Be the First to Share


    • Backyard Contest

      Backyard Contest
    • Silly Hats Speed Challenge

      Silly Hats Speed Challenge
    • First Time Author Contest

      First Time Author Contest

    3 Discussions


    11 years ago on Introduction

    Are you using a MXL 990 microphone? I was thinking about buying the USB version , and it looked like you had one in the video.


    Reply 5 years ago

    hey man. I don't know what you want to us the mic for, but if it's a usb one I'm assuming it's for your voice? I've heard more than enough reviews of it to understand that the frequency response is pretty shot. you are probably better off spending a little more and getting something else so you're not having to do all the post pro on it to make your voice sound 'natural'


    12 years ago on Introduction

    This room will do a great job of filtering out sounds from fans, air conditioners, electrical equipment and other common noises that we hear all day long but never notice until we record it. I have a few questions you may be able to answer. How is your room different from putting the isolation stuff on the walls in a closet you already have? How much better is the good isolation stuff than, say, shag carpeting the walls, floor, and ceiling? What about the shaped foam sold a places like Wal-Mart to cover a bed? What was the reason for styrene walls? I don't have a styrene walled room to try it but it would seem to me that closed cell styrene is just about as reflective to sound as normal walls. If you really want to deaden the wall surfaces and keep them from causing or reflecting low frequencies, make them with two sheets of luan (cheap) wall paneling that have been glued together with a glue that never quite solidifies. There are some craft and fabric glues that dry rigid but remain thick and soft enough to dent with a fingernail. You'll need larger quantities than you can get a Hobby Lobby. Could be some of the tubes of adhesives sold at the hardware stores would work. You'll need enough to coat the wood entirely. The surface of the luan is still reflective to high frequencies, but the lows would be well damped. You deal with the high frequencies with the cone foam. I used to be in the vibration damping business. Our aim was to stop aluminum aircraft parts from breaking due to vibration, but the technology was similar to what you are doing. From my experience I can suggest that getting a room quiet is a matter of trial and error. You do not need to cover every inch with the sound absorbing material. In fact you might only need a few strategically placed patches of the material. A typical cinder block movie theater is an echo chamber before they hang the heavy drapes on the walls. I have seen one cinder block theater cured of the echos by hanging specifically tuned "art" on the walls at certain locations. It worked beautifully and left most of the walls uncovered completely. For anyone who has never been inside a real "anechoic chamber," it is a very eerie sensation. Actually it is the lack of sensation. Even before you close the door you can tell you are not in Kansas anymore. The world is different inside one of those things. The one I was in had cones about 9 inches tall on floor, ceiling, and walls. There was a coarse wire suspended floor to walk on. Another room I worked in has cylindrical with concrete and steel walls and floors, heavy glass windows and a hard surface ceiling. The room was 50 feet in diameter, 20 feet high, and had a time response of 17 seconds for voice sounds to dissipate below the threshold of hearing. The only way to communicate in that room was to get up inside the other person's personal space and speak in a low volume voice.