Making Resin Jewelry




Introduction: Making Resin Jewelry

I did this at TechShop Menlo Park.

Using resin and foraged natural items we made fun jewelry! You can also make paper weights, fridge magnets, belt buckles, wall pieces, etc.

Teacher Notes

Teachers! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.

Step 1: Make Molds

I used the vacuum former to heat and form sheets of plastic (from Tap Plastics you can get sheets of Polypropeline) to make molds. I like working with nature so I used pieces of wood, bark and pine cones cut in half lengthwise. I had to cut the pinecones or else the plastic would wrap around them and I wouldn't be able to get them out. No undercuts. I also got one pre-formed mold sheet to accomodate many small resin pieces to be made.

Step 2: List of Ingredients

This is what I got in preparation for casting day: Clear lite casting resin, catalyst, blue nitrile gloves (make sure to not use thin latex gloves as the resin will burn through them and end up on your hands), measuring cups of different sizes,  wooden stir sticks, resin spray and resin dye. All these items are conveniently found at Tap Plastics. I set everything up outside because resin smells toxic and does give off toxic fumes especially once catalyst is introduced.

Step 3: What to Cast?

Once again I love working with nature so I went foraging for natural items. I gathered a bunch of dried leaves, flowers, branches fuzies, grasses, puff balls, feathers, prickly balls, etc..  You can resin cast pretty much anything as long as it is dry. Moist items will interfere with the curing process and with change color when casted. 

Step 4: Mix Resin Mixture

Mix resin and catalyst which is MEK (very toxic stuff, definitely be aware to not get it on your face, eyes, mouth.. Casting occurs in at least 3 layers of poured resin, waiting for each layer to begin curing before pouring another. Otherwise the objects embedded tend to either sink to the bottom or the mold or float on top and being fully incasted and surrounded by resin. For the first layer use 5 drops of catalyst  per ounce of resin. For second layer use 4 drops of catalyst and third layer uses 3 drops per ounce. Mix thoroughly using a wooden stir stick and scraping the walls and bottom of the mixing cup.

Step 5: The Pour

After pouring the first layer wait for it to cure and solidify at least somewhat before placing objects to be casted into it. Second layer is the one into which objects are placed. It will be the thickest layer of the casting. The third layer doesn't need to be thick it is only going to fully cover the items that tried to float to the surface. The curing time highly depends on the temperature,humidity and amount of direct sunlight. On a sunny day  such as this lovely summer day in Menlo Park, this work happens quite quick, it will take about 5- 10 minutes to cure each layer. In the foggy cold evenings of San Francisco where I live and create art as well, I sometimes have to use the oven to help the thermal curing process or otherwise it takes a whole night for a layer to fully cure.

Step 6: Dipping Technique

Sometimes a little resin mixture is left after pouring, I usually use it to dip items into. This is quite simple and fun and it will preserve and harden your object, the more layers the better.

Step 7: Dye

There are differnt colors of dye available. Most of them are liquid and transparent and the number of drops you mix into the resin mixture determines the saturation and intensity of the color. Also there are opaque powders available that you can mix in. I like the glow in the dark powder and I use it in the last layer of my castings. Fun stuff.

Step 8: Pop Out of Mold

The plastic molds are somewhat flexible and as you bend them the resin castings pop right out. At this point they are ready to be sprayed with resin spray with makes them as clear and shiny as can be. 

Step 9: Make Jewelry

Now the beautiful resin castings are ready to be drilled into with a very tiny drill bit and hung on a chain or earring hooks or striged together to make jewelry.

Fun in the sun! :) Try it out!

Be the First to Share


    • Heart Contest

      Heart Contest
    • Fiber Arts Contest

      Fiber Arts Contest
    • Paper Contest

      Paper Contest

    6 Discussions


    4 years ago

    When i use the resin spray it makes my resin appear super matte and foggy ? what am i doing wrong?? I tried adding a fresh layer of resin but its making it worse bc it drips or is uneven or if i use a brush ir sponge to add a thin layer it leaves streaks! Help mee!

    armored bore
    armored bore

    6 years ago on Introduction

    I've heard that any resin left uncovered (like in the open top of a mold) will stay tacky and never fully cure. Is that true? How would you keep that from happening?


    Reply 5 years ago on Introduction

    I have had that problem. I was wondering if this is what the resin spray is used for?


    7 years ago on Introduction

    Love this! Do you know if resin works on any plastic mold?

    Miss Cabbit
    Miss Cabbit

    Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

    No it does not. Sometimes it will become one with the plastic mold and not ever get out and sometimes it is just extra hard to demold. You can always use mold release but it tends to leave a weird surface finish as it bubbles between the plastics. I vacuum form either LDPE (low density poly ethiline) or regular PE. If you dont use a vacuum former, most tuppaware works well and it has some flexibility to make for an easy demolding. I've used bottoms of plastic bottles, sometimes they have fun shapes. It's difficult to demold but possible with some force. Best of luck to you!!!


    Reply 5 years ago on Introduction

    I've been working on a bottle cap table and I cover it with plastic sheeting to keep dust out of the resin. It doesn't seen to stick to that stuff. I don't know off hand what kind of material it is(maybe vinyl?) but I can say that I bought it from Home Depot in a roll. Maybe in the paint section? I originally bought it as drop cloth for painting. I'll see if I can find out what the material is and the next time I do a pour I'll test to be sure it doesn't stick. I got some resin on it at one point and after it had cured it seemed to just pop off when the plastic was moved.