Manual Bar Bender / Scrolling Tool




Introduction: Manual Bar Bender / Scrolling Tool

About: Just a fellow who want's to learn new tricks and skills.


I wanted to have an option to bend and scroll metal bars, but i have a little small "shop".

I didn't want to lose any space, so i decided to integrate it to my worktable.

This also gives me an option to use holes of the bender to clamp things to my worktable with simple "bolt clamps".

Video shows the process:

Materials: ( what i used )

Steel plates 7mm x 350mm x350mm 2 pcs.

Steel bar 30mm x 50mm x250mm

16mm steel rod. 100mm long piece 22mm rod. ( goes inside the handle )

Pipe with 22mm inner diameter and 3.2mm thick wall. Lenght 500mm ( handle )

(M8 and M10 bolts)

Plates or axle pieces with different diameter.


Threading tools ( M8 and M10 taps)

Tools for cutting metal and drill straight.


8, 10 and 16mm drills.

6.8mm drill for M8

8.5mm drill for M10

Step 1: Bender...

I cut 250mm long piece from the 30mm x 50mm flat bar.

I made 60mm long slot to the other end.

And chamfered corners, this was just visual aspect. Used my evolution 355 chopsaw and 230 evosaw for cutting.

Then i weld 100mm long piece of 22mm axle to the slot. This is for connecting handle.

Continued with drilling five 16mm holes with 30mm interval.

And 6.8mm holes for M8 threads. Placed holes 1/3 side from the centerpoint of 16mm holes. That way it locks the tap more firmly. ( pushes down and side )

Made countersunks for the bolts with 13mm drill.

Handle is made from pipe, to get longer thread to it, i weld 10mm long piece of 12mm axle side of the pipe.

Pipe is acid proof steel, and the axle mild steel. Weld them together using Elga 309Mol additive.

Drilled a hole and threaded it.

Step 2: Base..

Base is made from two 7mm thick steel plates.

My idea was to clamp both plates on top of my worktable.

Then i drill holes through the plates, and table at the same time.

This way i get all holes exactly to the same line, and very strong base.

Sandwitched 14mm steel and 50mm wood.

For the plate wich goes on top of the table, i made 8M threaded holes, and M10 threads to every corner.

I also made two M8 threads same line with the hole in the center. These holes are for locking the "template" when scrolling smaller diameters than 65mm

I bolted plates together from underside. This leaves top smooth.

Step 3: How It Works..

I cut Four 120mm long pieces from 16mm axle, four 100mm long and four 60mm

Longest one are "centerpoints" those go trought the table, holds the "template" and bender.

When using smaller "templates" i lock its movement to the baseplate with bolt.

Bigger templates are locked to the bender. ( pictures says it better than i ).

Bolts in the side of bender locks the dowels on their height, so those doesn't drop to the holes in the baseplate when using the tool.

Step 4: Bending..

I painted baseplate with white paint at first, then noticed that it was a stupid move.

Removed it with random orbital sander, and shielded pare steel surfaces with WD40

To bend rods and bars, i can use those earlier cut 16mm axles.

Or round " templates".

My english skills are too bad to explain, but i hope pictures or video explains it.

Step 5: Scrolling

Picture tells more than thousand Tuomas'ses..

When i need to make scrolls or bends with different radius than before, i make a new template for the job.

Then my collection slowly crows, and someday i have one for every different size / shape that i can imagine to need.

I made the scrolling templates from the left over axles at my workplace. Drilled the holes and made the shape with angle grinder.

Thanks for checking this out!


Ps. Remember to vote if you liked.

Metal Contest 2017

Second Prize in the
Metal Contest 2017



    • Tiny Home Contest

      Tiny Home Contest
    • Fix It! Contest

      Fix It! Contest
    • Water Contest

      Water Contest

    24 Discussions

    How much effort does it take to make a successful bend (I'm assuming you could just make the hadle longer to get more leverage if needed)?

    1 reply

    Not much. Mostly it depends from the radius. I am a small fellow, had no problems with 20mm x 20mm bar, using 50mm radius.

    Niiice job! At first I didn't understand what you were trying to do, but then, you're right, the pictures really explain it! Thanks! You got my vote!


    9 months ago

    Tuomas, awesome as usual. JamesB670, Try a French Curve on paper, glue paper to steel, center punch outline and use drill, grinder,hacksaw,files and Emery boards if you don't have a bandsaw. MS is fine as no great loads. Could case harden if wanted or use 1045 or better and direct harden.

    1 reply


    Just wanted to say what a brilliant instructable, the video is great, I'm going to use that design idea for some larger stuff that I have to do.

    Many thanks.

    2 replies

    wow nice build.

    Loved watching the build video.

    I am going to use your wood block idea to make straight taps.

    Great idea!

    1 reply

    9 months ago

    Well done! That round rod at the end seemed to tax things a bit. Did it feel as though you were pushing the limits of the bender? Also, the long handle seemed to be galvanized. I'm made to understand that welding directly on galvanized material without proper precautions can make you very ill. And if you do breathe the fumes from burnt zinc, drinking copius amounts of milk will ease the symptoms.

    1 reply

    It was a little on the limits. I placed "locking" too middle and didn't get enough power to it. When i changed it to the end i got more power. Pipe is stainless 316. That's why i didn't paint it.

    For bending pipes, I believe the manual-driven device is named a hickey. That term comes from an old home mechanic I knew in Michigan decades ago.

    1 reply

    I really need this.... Thank you for your idea.... I surely try it..

    Good work!!

    1 reply

    Brilliant Instructable and amazing device. I dearly wish I had the space for it (need it for my 3D printer). Still, I can adapt a smaller one based on this.


    Awesome design. I didn't notice any mention of how you make the "templates", but those are awesome too! Are they made of mild steel? The curved shapes seem to be very smooth and cut very square in the vertical dimension; how do you achieve that in a small shop!?

    (Toumas, you did fine with the written English for your intended purpose, but if you would ever like someone to look over your script before you publish; I'm sure that plenty of people would be happy to help on such good Instructables--myself included.)

    1 reply


    Thanks for the feedback!
    I made them with angle grinder, using 8mm grinding stone and 40 & 80 grit flap discs.

    I dind't use templates. Just do "with the eye" I do grinding and cutting outside, there was little dark for filming then. I have asberger, i think that's the reason why i need to finish things even in rain. Can't just stop if i get the mood.

    That's why i make multiple projects at the same time, i don't get stuck for making all the night when i limit the time what i use to one project in a day. I also forget to take pictures, that's why i use screenshots.

    I'll pm you when i make my next instructable.


    9 months ago

    Hi Tuomas, Another great presentation. JameB670, Tuomas has a You Tube channel and watching some videos will show that Tuomas has 'mechanical sympathy' in that he can imagine great ways to use tools and simple means to achieve what he wants. If like me you are confined to using scrap you can generate very accurate surfaces with a file and Emery boards. 1045 or better,(cut down bolts), would be good for pins all else MS as no great stress or impact loads. Draw template on paper with French Curve, glue to steel, mark outline with center punch and drill, cut ,grind and file. A bandsaw would be great.