Medieval Brigandine, Nice and Easy

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Introduction: Medieval Brigandine, Nice and Easy

About: Wow! Such science! Very lab! So research! Many awesome!

Do you want to make yourself a nice brigandine, in a very easy way?

What a silly question! Who wouldn't you want one?!

Let's start, for less than 60€ you can make yourself one!

Quick list of materials:

  • Sheets of 1mm thick steel (I bought 2 sheet of 50x60cm for ~30€)

  • Strip leather (actually any kind of leather would work, but I wanted a "rough" finish, bought 1 large piece for 20€)
  • Rapid rivets (a lot of them, I ended up buying 1K of them for 10€)

(Disclaimer: The following armor is suitable for LARP, cosplay or light combat ;) )

Step 1: Cut the Steel Plates

First get a sheet of 1mm thick steel. I've chosen normal steel, and not inox, for two reasons: (1) it is way easier to cut and hole, (2) it costs way less. The down-cost is that you'll have to check every now and then for rust.

Now trace your plates, with side 5cm. Use a metal snip to cut them (if it's too hard to you, you can use an angle grinder).

Finally with a drill press make four holes on each plate.

Just for safety, sand all the edges!

Remember to always wear gloves; if you also use non-inox steel, this is even more important for avoiding early rust.

For my project I've used 232 square plates (plust 24 half square).

It will take some time, put some nice music while you work!

Step 2: Arranging the Plates

Cut the leather, and start aligning the plates, starting from the top.

Better if you try on the leather shape first, check that it is able to cover all of your torso! (Mine was 60cm large btw).

I've used the tile spacers for nicely arranging the plates, and I've momentarily attached them to the leather with general purpose glue.

(To get a quick estimate of how many I would end up I first cut a dozen pieces in cardboard, to get a quick idea)

Step 3: Rivets, Rivets, Rivets

Time to rivet! This also will take some time. Carry on!

I've used a hollow punch (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6588-Hollow-Punch-12-Piece/dp/B000NPPBYC) for making the holes, and a setter for... well, setting them xD (https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Works-Setter-Install-Button/dp/B017DN7KEU/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1490052120&sr=1-7&keywords=rivet+setter)

In the end attach two leather stripes for the shoulder, and adjust the height. The leather stripe doesn't need to sustain much weight, since most of it will be spread on the torso.

Step 4: Almost Done!

Make two small leather belts and attach them to the torso, when you put on the brigandine you have only to adjust them!

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    9 Discussions

    1
    StevenH180
    StevenH180

    3 years ago

    Historic brigandines had overlapping plates so that an arrow point or blade tip wouldn't just slide through the gaps this design leaves. Looks great for costume armor though!

    0
    Ishmam Masud - Cuz I Can
    Ishmam Masud - Cuz I Can

    Reply 18 days ago

    Okay, so. When it comes to historical brigandines, they have a pretty specific pattern, and if done right, they can be pretty flexible.

    So, first, when it comes to the top part from the chest to hip, you have to rivet each plate on the bottom, but not the top. (And also, the plates should be horizontally rectangular.)

    Below the waist, the opposite, rivet on top, but not the bottom. This way the plates can move as your body does. You also have to make some plates facing another direction at the arms, so they can move with your arm.

    Also, make sure to rivet each plate a little bit under the other, so that each plate slightly overlaps each other. Also be sure to bend the plates just a bit, according to where they are on the body, to increase flexibility.


    Another note: Brigandines in the 16th century were buckled at the front, so it's far easier to put on. So the entire thing is just one piece, the back being in the middle, and the front at opposite sides, and you just wear it like you put on a coat or jacket. Pretty convenient.


    Here's a picture, pay attention to where the rivets are on the right side:

    16thBrig.jpg
    0
    erana_reborn
    erana_reborn

    Reply 3 years ago

    This.

    An easy fix for reenactment purposes wold be doing exactly what he did, but using no tile spacer -just make each plate touch the one to its left and right, and have the plates be slightly rectangular (a centimeter or two higher than wider) so the small bit that's over square size overlaps the plate right under it from the inside of the coat - that way from the outside it'll overlap the plate above it, as to deflect blows coming fom beneath (what you want if you are a horseback-fighting knight). Or do it the other way around (overlap the plate above it from the inside, so it'll overlap teh plate under it from the outside) for having a footman's coat (those were meant to deflect blows coming from above).

    Be warned it will be much less flexible than one with space betwen the plates. For a costume piece, one with spaces as this one is far more comfortable.

    0
    gdaily
    gdaily

    3 years ago

    Next time you do an instructable could you make a matterial list and show patterns when used, even if it's a shetch of the shape. You leave a lot of questions unanswered: What kind of leather did you use? How did you work out how many plates you would need? How did you punch the various holes? What was your approximate cost of matterials? Etc

    0
    LoSkana
    LoSkana

    Reply 3 years ago

    Thanks for the feedback! I'll add the answers to the 'ible ;)

    0
    pogonoforysci
    pogonoforysci

    3 years ago

    What rivets did you use?

    0
    LoSkana
    LoSkana

    Reply 3 years ago

    These ones (http://lnx.lavorazioneincuoio.it/en/?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_category_id=62&virtuemart_product_id=193&Itemid=105), nickel and small ;) More than 1k of them, actually xD

    0
    Swansong
    Swansong

    3 years ago

    That looks really good!