Metal Speakes Stands, No Welding

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I used to have these kind of four round pipe metal speaker stands and i really loved the design. But when i was moving to different place they got "magically" lost. I recently got repaired my old hifi and wanted same speaker stands but couldn't get them. So i decided to make some, hoping to be as similar as i remember the original.

No welding, just ordered pipes and metal plates. There is metal screw inside, attaching top plate to bottom and that's it. I used CNC to help myself with the shape but, paper print would do similar job, maybe even better.

So lets start

Step 1: Material

8x Pipes

I ordered 750mm long 60mm wide.

2xPlates

top plate is 140x140x4mm

2xPlates

bottom 250x250x4mm

16x coupling nuts M8

16x flat head screws M8

16x normal M8 nut

8x screw rod 8mm

You might need some other screws and nuts if u want them to be used instead of speaker spikes or you can buy them. If you want similar setup as mine you will be able to see what i used there easily from images.

The plate design with hole positions atc. are in dxf file attached.

You will also need to make little wooden circles like u see on the image with hole in the middle. These will hold pipes centered. I used cnc to make them but it is doable using saw or circular cutter for your drill. Be CAREFUL diameter of these disks should be little less as inside diameter of your pipe which may vary depending on pipe wall thickness so it might be different as in plans.

Note: Mine are not circles they have little four cuts from sides, that is only that there are holding tabs when i was making them on cnc and if the tabs are not on outside diameter then i dont need to cut them carefully as outside diameter is clean.

Step 2: Making Top and Bottom Plates1

For marking the shape i used my cnc and cut wooden parts but printout redrawn to the metal plates would do same job.

So cutting the shape is done on grinder. Rounding corners is the main job.

In My case i attached the metal plate to the wooden piece, drilled holes and attached them together temporarily with screws so i can grind the edges to same shape as wood.

Then i made all holes bigger, exactly 8mm, that was my plan for the pipe holding screws and the speaker spike holes (on outside of the plates) the speaker spike holes... you might want them smaller if u going to buy spikes, possibly M6.

I used sand paper to finish the details on rounded corners and then tapered the edges of holes.

Step 3: Making Top and Bottom Plates2

The top and bottom center screws are the flat head so we need to flush them with the metal surface. So we need countersink bit and make holes like on images. On all plates 4 center holes.

Step 4: Center Rods 1

So this is where the magic happens.

First image shows the finished screws

Second how the flat head screws will be attached to this center threaded rod and

the last image shows how they will hold the metal pipes in place.

nice, isn't it?

so how do we do this, in next steps

Step 5: Center Rods 2

First we make little setup like on image.

The wooden circle is held from one side by normal screw and we keep maybe 5mm of thread on the other side so we can attach the coupling nut. 5mm because we want as much space for the flat head nut so we do not run out of thread when we will be tightening them up.

last image just shows where the flat head screw will go

Step 6: Center Rods 3

The bottom plate is put on flat surface and the center road is fully screwed down to one of the bottom screws.

Then i just place two pipes and the top plate near to this rod, let one screw hanging trough hole from top plate and positioned the wooden disk to place, so i could see the flat head screw will have space to go in to the nut.

then i cut the threaded rod 5mm from the wooden disk.

So this should give you the correct length.

Step 7: Center Rods 4

Now we cut all the rods to same length and attach the wooden disks.

Then we screw fully just by hand the rods to the bottom plate and slide the pipes on.

Step 8: Center Rods 4

Now we put the top plate on the top of the pipes and add all four screws, tighten them up and also check if top and bottom plates are aligned as my pipes weren't cut exactly and there was bit of angle on some cuts but when during tightening you keep top and bottom plate aligned it will stay like that.

i turned them up side down and tighten the bottom screws too.

And that's it! now buy or make some speaker spikes.

Step 9: Speaker Spikes

I didnt buy the spikes.... yet... maybe i will not, we will see how i will feel.

So this is what i use now, i bought some thin nuts, M8 screws, coupling nuts and the whatever it is called the thing you attach on bottom of chairs so you don't scratch the floor.

And the rest is pretty much self explanatory from images. I just stacked them in whatever manner i thought will look nice.

Hope you enjoyed this instructable

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    2 Discussions

    0
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    Vladekp

    4 weeks ago

    Well, that's brilliant! Clean and easy for those who can't weld. I only don't get the point of using those spikes. I mean, ok, the top once hood the speakers, but why should you lift the stands off the ground with the bottom ones?

    1 reply
    0
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    VladoMVladekp

    Reply 27 days ago

    Thanks, well, it is kind of standard on these stands, i am not sure if
    ive seen tall stands without them. I suppose they are there to isolate
    the vibrations as much as possible and help you level the towers so they
    do not lean if your floor isnt straight.