No electronics knowledge is needed to build this device.
Step 1: Buy a Solar Waver Toy From a Discount Store
Pry off the bottom panel with a small flat screwdriver,
Step 2: Inside You Will See a Coil Glued to the Base Plate and a Solar Panel.
Under the solar panel is a tiny circuit board.
Step 3: The Large Black Object on the Right Side of the Circuit Board Is a Capacitor
Note the tiny FRAGILE wires running from the circuit board to the coil.
Step 4: The Tiny Wires From Circuit Board to Coil Must Not Be Given Any Stress or Pull.
Step 5: Cut Off the Solar Panel.
Cut the wires right where they touch the solar panel.
Note the round flat end of the capacitor.
Step 6: Using Silicone Adhesive and Sealant, Carefully Glue the Capacitor to the Center of the Coil.
Let this dry for at least 3 hours.
Step 7: Gently Move All Wires Up and Away From Baseplate. Cut Baseplate in Straight Cuts Initially.
Then trim to a crude circle. Keep a close eye on the tiny wires the whole time.
Step 8: You May See a Stray Wire Sticking Out, Don't Panic.
The picture above shows a common situation you may see.
Step 9: Get This USB Cable From a Discount Store
Step 10: Cut Off the Micro End (smaller) Connector and Strip Off 6" of the Outside Cloth Like Cover
Step 11: Cut Off the White and Green Wires, We Only Need the Black and Red Power Wires
Strip a little of the insulation from the black and red wires.
Step 12: Use Electrical Tape Around the Frayed Looking Part of the Cover, Then Slide Some Heatshrink On.
Step 13: Heat the Heatshrink Over the Electrical Tape to Form a Taper Where the Thickness Changes
Step 14: Get This PVC Piece From Home Depot, Drill a Hole Near the Bottom for the USB Cable Wires to Go Through.
Step 15: Run the Cable Through the Hole As Shown. Glue on the Inside of the Hole.
This is the only place in the build where superglue can be used. Use silicone adhesive in all other spots
You need about 2" of the wires hanging outside the top of the PVC.
Step 16: Get This Exact Blind Spot Mirror From a Discount Store or Elsewhere.
Note the thickness of the plastic. Don't buy the thin case type.
The mirror shown is a perfect fit for the PVC and is really easy to take apart.
Step 17: Use a Nail in the Notch at the Top to Remove the Backplate and Remove the Mirror Lens.
Step 18: Use Soft Steel Wool to Remove the Mirror Coating From the Lens.
Placing the lens in your palm and scrapping with the soft steel wool gets most of the coating in the middle.
For the surfaces of the lens nearer the edge you need place some rags or old towel on a hard flat surface and place the lens on the rags/towels so that you can press hard with the lens slightly angled.
Finally, use running water in the sink while scrubbing with the lens in your palm to remove the last of the coating.
Step 19: Optional Step. Try to Make the Lens Resemble a Mirror. (reflection Is Opposite Than Original)
Step 20: Place the Coil/circuit Board Assembly on a Holder Cup So It's Wires Can Line Up With the USB Wires From the PVC Assembly.
Prepare heat-shrink on the USB wires. Notice that on the coil/circuit board assembly, I have taken the white wires, one at a time, held them carefully at the bottom, and used my teeth to strip off some of the insulation.
(An upside down coffee cup of the right size can be used as your holder cup)
Step 21: Double Check Your Polarity. Solder ( - ) to Black, ( + ) to Red. Then Heat Shrink.
Step 22: Using the Holder Cup, Place the Mirror Under the Coil/circuit Board Assemby. Glue the Coil/circuit Board Assemby to the Lens/mirror With the Edge of the Coil Slightly Outside the Middle Spot of the Lens.
Use the siicone adhesive glue. Let this dry for 3 hours.
Step 23: Glue the Mirror to the PVC.
Gently pull the wires from the bottom PVC opening to help get the mirror in place.
Use the silicone adhesive glue. Use a rag to remove excess glue.
Step 24: Optional Step: Paint PVC (mirror Facing Down)
Step 25: Recap of How It's Put Together and Recommended Magnet Sizes.
Neodymium Sphere Magnets from K&J Magnetics or E-bay.