Intro: Mini Wacky Races No. 2 - Creepy Coupe Popsicle Stick Model
After the rather complex Space 1999 Eagle instructable, an easier ad less serious build this time - really! Here's an instructable to make Hanna-Barbera's No. 2 Creepy Coupe from the cartoon series Wacky Races.
Driven by the Gruesome Twosome, the unique vehicle features a belfry on top of a hearse. The mini Popsicle stick model of the Creepy Coupe includes details like a dragon tail attempting to burrow behind the vehicle and a V-6 engine complete with exhaust pipes and twin air intake manifolds.
Step 1: Materials and Tools
In addition to wooden dowels, popsicle sticks (various sizes too!), matchsticks, wooden ice cream spoons and toothpicks, materials used were mostly from my spares box.
Tools used for the build were:
- Dremel 3000 & Dremel Minimite with the following attachments:
- Coarse/fine 1/2" drum sander
- Coarse/fine 1/4" drum sander
- Coarse/fine disc sander
- #125 high speed cutter
- #107 & #110 engraving cutter
- Standard and reinforced cutting wheel
- #953 & #8193 aluminum oxide grinding stone
Step 2: Images
Search keywords for both Bing and Google images are "creepy coupe".
Although there are a lot of images on the internet, not many provide details that can be used as major references for the Creepy Coupe. This is understandable since the original vehicle was a series of sketches from a cartoon series.
Unlike my other instructables, I found no detailed schematics for this project. The best images I used as my primary references
were from devianart.com (http://www.deviantart.com/art/2-creepy-coupe-275384910) and tumblr.com (http://media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lmuwsxdktG1qev2zx.jpg).
I also used images from the following URLs as additional references:
Again, my sincere appreciation to the providers of the abovementioned images for making this build possible!
Step 3: Chassis and Body
Returning from my old procedure of fabricating the single biggest piece first, I started with the Creepy Coupe's chassis and body.
Eight (8) pieces were cut from a single tongue depressor-sized popsicle stick for the Creepy Coupe's chassis and body. Please take note that the rounded ends of the popsicle stick will be used later for the hearse's curtains.
Four (4) of the eight (8) pieces were initially laminated together. Slots were made for the driver compartment and hearse with the use of a reinforced cutting disc attachment on a Dremel 3000. The remaining four (4) pieces were used to sandwich together the slotted parts to form the Creepy Coupe's body.
The final shape of the Creepy Coupe's body was finished using a fine disc sander attachment based on the tumblr.com image as guide.
Finely shape matchsticks were used for the belfry pillars. These were glued to the rear and middle part of the coupe. The pillars will support the hearse's ceiling/belfry base.
The hearse's ceiling/belfry base was cut from two (2) wooden ice cream cup spoons. The two pieces were laminated and carved into a 'pagoda-shape' using a drum sander attachment in a moto tool. I also saved the rounded ends of the wooden ice cream cup spoons for use in the hearse's curtains.
The completed hearse ceiling was glued on top of the belfry pillars.
Pieces from a scrap tongue depressor-sized popsicle sticks for the engine mount and radiator were cut using an Olfa cutter. The engine mount was glued to the Creepy Coupe's chassis just in front of the drivers compartment. After the glue has set, the radiator was glued just in front of the engine chassis.
The rounded ends from the wooden ice cream cup spoons and tongue depressor-sized popsicle stick I saved earlier was used for the Creepy Coupe's curtains. I sliced it much thinner and cut it in half using an Olfa cutter. The two halves were inverted and glued to the sides of the belfry pillars to simulate the curtains. This process was repeated seven (7) more times for the four (4) sides of the hearse's windows.
Perhaps the most difficult part of the build was fabricating the belfry, particularly the belfry's windows. It took some time to carve out the windows using the #107 & #110 engraving cutters after a small pilot hole was made with a #125 high speed cutter attachment. As can be seen in the photographs, the shape of the windows were rather crude. I haven't found a Dremel attachment that can carve such a tiny and delicate shape( yet).
Nevertheless, the four (4) layers of the belfry were laminated together and a simulated porthole was carved using a #953 aluminum oxide grinding stone.
The belfry's roof was from four (4) layers of regular popsicle sticks laminated and carved using a coarse/fine 1/2" drum sander attachment. The belfry's ceiling (between the roof and the belfry) was from a spare tongue depressor-sized popsicle stick sliced and shaped using an olfa cutter and disc sander attachment on a moto tool.
The belfry, it's ceiling and roof were glued together and the completed assembly fixed on top of the hearse to complete the Creepy Coupe's body.
Step 4: Other Major SubAssemblies
The Creepy Coupe's engine block was cut from the end of a spare tongue depressor-sized popsicle stick. Three (3) layers were laminated and sanded smooth with the use of a fine disk sander attachment. The valve covers were cut from matchsticks and glued to the top end of the engine block.
The two (2) sets of air intake manifolds were made from parts sourced from my spares box. Each set was made from two (2) parts for the base and air intake glued and set on top of the engine block.
Each of the two (2) sets exhaust pipes were from four (4) thinned toothpick cut and glued together. The completed exhaust pipes were allowed to dry and set on the side of the engine block just below the valve cover.
'Candle holder' headlamps
Each of the 'Candle holder' headlamp was from a small dowel carved using a fine drum sander attachment. I cut each lamp from the dowel using a reinforced cutting wheel on a Dremel Minimite. The bottom half was sanded into shape using a fine disc sander attachment also mounted on a Dremel Minimite.
For the headlamp stem, rounded toothpicks were used. The methodology for carving and shaping the headlamp stem was similar to the process i used in fabricating the landing skids for the AT-99 Avatar Scorpion gunship (Instructable #4).
The headlamp and stem were glued together and allowed to dry.
Probably the most fun part of this build was making the Dragon tail.
The tail started out as four (4) layers of a sliced tongue depressor-sized popsicle stick. In order to increase the rigidity of the tail to withstand harsh grinding, one of the middle layer was laminated with the wood grain perpendicular to the outer layers. The completed rectangular 'block' was allowed to dry thoroughly before any grinding/carving can begin.
A pattern was drawn on the top and sides to act as a guide in carving the single piece into a dragon tail shape. The coarse/fine drum sander attachments were used for the rough shape and finished with a disc sander attachment on a MiniMite. The 'arrow head' tip was made from scrap popsicle sticks cut and glued at the tip of the dragon tail.
The five (5) pieces of wheels were made from a large dowel. A hole was 'scribed' using a #953 aluminum oxide grinding stone to simulate the wheel hubs. Each wheel was then cut from the dowel using a reinforced cutting wheel attachment mounted on a Dremel 3000.
The two (2) wheel axles were made from thinned toothpicks shaped using a fine disc sander attachment on a Minimite moto tool.
The main windshield frame was made from thinned match sticks cut into four (4) tiny strips and glued together. The windshield visor was made from similar materials albeit much smaller than the frame.
The visor was glued to the top of the main windshield frame at an angle to simulate a 'hinged' effect.
The fabrication of the two (2) sets of side fenders were similar to the laminate process done with the dragon tail, with the middle layer laminated with the wood grain perpendicular to the outer layers.
Again, a pattern was drawn on the side and a coarse drum sander attachment used to initially carve the side fender. I used a coarse/fine 1/4" drum sander attachment for the front and rear wheel wells of the fender. To carve the side step boards, I used a #8193 aluminum oxide grinding stone attachment on a Dremel 3000 moto tool. I finished the entire piece with a fine disc sander attachment on a Minimite.
Step 5: Putting It All Together
The dragon tail jutting out the rear window of the hearse was glued first. A special jig was used to prop up the tail to the desired angle while the white glue sets. I initially thought of including a dragon's head popping out behind the driver's compartment but abandoned the idea since the model may look too cumbersome and unbalanced. I also thought of making the brothers Gruesome but also had second thoughts that the two may not actually fit in the Creepy Coupe's drivers compartment.
The two side fenders were glued next. I made sure that the wheel wells line up with the images in the tumblr.com pix.
The V-6 engine was mounted next making sure that the exhaust pipes ran towards the rear of the Creepy Coupe.
The windshield assembly was glued next and a special jig made to support the windshield while the glue sets. The same jig was used to support the wheel to the wheel axle as the white glue dries.
While the wheel/wheel axle assemblies dries, the same jig was used to support the headlamp stem to the radiator.
Next, the wheel/wheel axle assemblies were glued to the bottom front and bottom rear of the Creepy Coupe making sure that the wheels line up in the center of the side fenders wheel wells. Finally, the spare tire was glued to the rear of the Creepy Coupe.